AC problems...again...arrrggghh
Discussion
Well,
Once again the Esprit is heading back to the shop tomorrow. The AC was evacuated, pressure tested and charged about 3 weeks ago ($216.00)...Just took it out for an afternoon drive after replacing the brake pads....and NO Fricken AC! The compressor is not coming on. I have already had the steel AC pipe/line upgrade....Any other problem areas I should look at? We did put dye in the system so perhaps we can isolate a leak.
BTW, What does a compressor cost and is it removed from underneath?
I sure am getting tired of repairing things. LOTUS should give us owners some freebees for our troubles.
Jati
Once again the Esprit is heading back to the shop tomorrow. The AC was evacuated, pressure tested and charged about 3 weeks ago ($216.00)...Just took it out for an afternoon drive after replacing the brake pads....and NO Fricken AC! The compressor is not coming on. I have already had the steel AC pipe/line upgrade....Any other problem areas I should look at? We did put dye in the system so perhaps we can isolate a leak.
BTW, What does a compressor cost and is it removed from underneath?
I sure am getting tired of repairing things. LOTUS should give us owners some freebees for our troubles.
Jati
Jati said:
Well,
Once again the Esprit is heading back to the shop tomorrow. The AC was evacuated, pressure tested and charged about 3 weeks ago ($216.00)...Just took it out for an afternoon drive after replacing the brake pads....and NO Fricken AC! The compressor is not coming on. I have already had the steel AC pipe/line upgrade....Any other problem areas I should look at? We did put dye in the system so perhaps we can isolate a leak.
BTW, What does a compressor cost and is it removed from underneath?
I sure am getting tired of repairing things. LOTUS should give us owners some freebees for our troubles.
Jati
Hi,
First off... Model?? Year?? Ask for assistance, but please render this bit of info as well k??
Did you check the pressure switch? It is located in the front bonnet attached to the receiver/dryer with two electrical connectors going into it.
Start the car and turn on the A/C, look for bubbles in the sight glass of the receiver/dryer - there shouldn't be any. If there are, system is low on refrigerant/oil and this could result in lower operating pressure not allowing the pressure switch to energize.
Next, w/ a multitester, check the switch for continuity (engine/A/C on). If no joy, suspect the switch. Additionally, make a short jumper wire w/ spade connectors on each end and plug it into the connectors coming off the pressure switch (engine, A/C off). Start the engine and A/C and see if the system doesn't operate.
If no joy, check to be sure the connection to the compressor is securely attached. Check all relevant fuses and relays, substituting the relays with ones from other accessories known to be working properly. Besure engine is off and recommend disconnecting the negative (-) battery terminal whenever pulling relays and fuses.
If none of these simple checks reveal the issue, you'll most likely need to have it brought to a shop for further exploration. Happy Motoring! ...Jim'85TE
Oops, sorry...It's a 97 V8
I jumped the pressure switch connections and the compressor kicked-in...
Looks like the compressor shaft seal is leaking.
Now I just need a source in the US for a compressor.
I called the dealership in Atlanta, & they say a new compressor runs about $1000...Yikes! Maybe I should buy 2 or 3 considering the lifespan.
Anyone here have service notes on loosening the belt tensioner and replacing the compressor?
Guys, I love the car & I hate to sound like a whiner..But, I am socked that Lotus hasn't been hit by class action suits for these constant problems.
TIA, Jati
I jumped the pressure switch connections and the compressor kicked-in...
Looks like the compressor shaft seal is leaking.
Now I just need a source in the US for a compressor.
I called the dealership in Atlanta, & they say a new compressor runs about $1000...Yikes! Maybe I should buy 2 or 3 considering the lifespan.
Anyone here have service notes on loosening the belt tensioner and replacing the compressor?
Guys, I love the car & I hate to sound like a whiner..But, I am socked that Lotus hasn't been hit by class action suits for these constant problems.
TIA, Jati
Jati,
Sorry to hear about the compressor woes... had 2 replaced on mine during warranty along with 3-4 sets of steel manifold pipes, etc.
Getting the AC compressor out on the V8 is truly a pain. The aux belt is simple... from the top side use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet and slip the drive square into the square hole in the tensioner with the handle towards the right side of the car and push it down which will allow you to move the belt off one of the top pulleys (water pump or power steering), then its get tougher.
One of the guys on the turboesprit list (yahoo groups) posted a write up on removing the AC compressor on the V8, I suggest you grab it scan thru it as it takes it from here.
I would be inclined to find a local shop that can rebuild the compressor as the cost from LCU is a bit extreme.... it's a Delphi unit and should not be too difficult to get rebuilt.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
Sorry to hear about the compressor woes... had 2 replaced on mine during warranty along with 3-4 sets of steel manifold pipes, etc.
Getting the AC compressor out on the V8 is truly a pain. The aux belt is simple... from the top side use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet and slip the drive square into the square hole in the tensioner with the handle towards the right side of the car and push it down which will allow you to move the belt off one of the top pulleys (water pump or power steering), then its get tougher.
One of the guys on the turboesprit list (yahoo groups) posted a write up on removing the AC compressor on the V8, I suggest you grab it scan thru it as it takes it from here.
I would be inclined to find a local shop that can rebuild the compressor as the cost from LCU is a bit extreme.... it's a Delphi unit and should not be too difficult to get rebuilt.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
Kevin is right about the write up i did for the AC. In my case I was just replacing the manifold and pipes not the comp. You will need to lift the engine about 6" to get it out. This process is covered in the end of the ED section of the service notes. Not hard but you should have a good level of this kink of work before. Also pay close attention to the instructions for reassemble for coolant etc. Don't pull off the low preasure power steering hose if you can help it as it is a bear to get back on. You will need a lotus tool for lifting the engine to connect the chain and hoist.
I would supect the manifold leaking first. Have you had the system leak tested? I was able to get " O " rings for our unit so you might be able to get one none OEM for less. I recomend having a dealer do it for you with coverage for a future problem.
Dan
I would supect the manifold leaking first. Have you had the system leak tested? I was able to get " O " rings for our unit so you might be able to get one none OEM for less. I recomend having a dealer do it for you with coverage for a future problem.
Dan
We leak tested the system about 4 weeks ago...It held 115 lbs. of nitrogen...Once we decided that the system was sound, we evacuated and filled the system (very slowly and cautiously). The AC was then cooling to 42 Degs. F A few days later I noticed that the belt was squealing a little at low rpms..This went away very quickly. The Esprit sat for about a week, until my drive yesterday afternoon. I jumped the LP switch this morning and the compressor engaged. I tried to get it up on a rack this afternoon to check for leaks with a black light (dye was previously inserted into the system) The damn shop was too busy to fit us in.
I can only hope it's a seal...It sounds like a rough task to replace the compressor. I found out today that the compressor is a Delphi #CS-0052, $399.00 at NAPA.
The heat index was 105 F today in Georgia. And I thought my old Vett was hot in the summer w/o AC.
There is some oil leaking onto the flats of the frame cradle, below the compressor, but none onto the oil filter. 24,000 miles, new engine & still lots of problems...I think these things were actually recycled Fiats. My H2 sure is looking better these days. :P
If I keep this car, I can see installing a lift in the near future.
Jati
PS. Anyone have a link to the service proceedure for the compressor replacement...My mechanic is going to love doing this...NOT!
I can only hope it's a seal...It sounds like a rough task to replace the compressor. I found out today that the compressor is a Delphi #CS-0052, $399.00 at NAPA.
The heat index was 105 F today in Georgia. And I thought my old Vett was hot in the summer w/o AC.
There is some oil leaking onto the flats of the frame cradle, below the compressor, but none onto the oil filter. 24,000 miles, new engine & still lots of problems...I think these things were actually recycled Fiats. My H2 sure is looking better these days. :P
If I keep this car, I can see installing a lift in the near future.
Jati
PS. Anyone have a link to the service proceedure for the compressor replacement...My mechanic is going to love doing this...NOT!
Looks like, according to the dye, the leak is coming from the rear seal/seals. Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like one can just remove the engine mount and have ready access to the bolt to remove the rear plate and replace the seals. Thanks for the replies...Nice to be in the company of so many Esprit owners.
Jati
Jati
If you're referring to the rear seals where the manifold pipe assembly bolts on (a single cap screw), then make sure it's the seals and not the pipe assembly. I've had both go, the pipes 3 times alone... all new warranty replacements didn't last a week.
If it is the seals, you can probably get those in without much work as the dealer had mine replaced (first A/C failure when new) while I waited one morning.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
If it is the seals, you can probably get those in without much work as the dealer had mine replaced (first A/C failure when new) while I waited one morning.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
KM, Did you go through 3 of the upgraded (steel) manifold pipe sets? The reason I ask is because Dave Simkin told me that they have not seen failures in those. Even though my leak seems isolated to a blown manifold seal...I sure would hate to go through the process of changing the seals and then find the $500 manifold is bad also.
Also, do you know if the enigine mounts are suppose to have a 3/8" gap at the rubber washer, or are they to be pulled snug?
TIA, Jati
Also, do you know if the enigine mounts are suppose to have a 3/8" gap at the rubber washer, or are they to be pulled snug?
TIA, Jati
Sorry to counter Dave Simkin, but yes, 3 sets of leaky pipes due to poor manufacturing... and Dave had to okay the repairs in all cases. Before I would blow $500 on a set of pipes (obscene amount), I would take it to a good welding shop and have them fix it first. If they can't, I dare say they can custom build a pipe set for much less than $500. Also be sure to tighten the single mounting bolt up good and sung.
As for the motor mounts, yes, the gap at the bottom is normal.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
As for the motor mounts, yes, the gap at the bottom is normal.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
What a fun day.....I managed to change out the AC compressor manifold seals and after evacuating, pressure testing, & filling....Yup, you guessed it, the high pressure manifold line where it enters the block plate is cracked...goodbye freon charge
Can anyone here tell me an easy/or proper way to replace the manifold pipe?
I guess when it rains, it pours..My temp gauge which has been working intermitently is now not working at all.
Can anyone here tell me an easy/or proper way to replace the manifold pipe?
I guess when it rains, it pours..My temp gauge which has been working intermitently is now not working at all.
Well, sorry about the pipes... figures.
Regarding the temp gauge. Wiring is quite simple in design and quite busy in implementation. In short, you have 3 connections on the temp gauge: +12V, Ground and the sending unit input. The sending unit acts as a variable resistor to ground, hence the gauge effectively reacts to a resistance change. A simple check with an ohmmeter can determine if the sending unit is bad by measuring between the engine block and the sending unit lead (water pump area). While the resistance range can vary depending on the sensor, most are ~50 ohms when temperature is about 90 Centigrade. Resistance will be higher when colder. If you suspect a bad sending unit, get a standard 47 ohm 1 watt resistor and, using it in place of the sending unit, you should register ~90 C on the temp gauge.
If nothing appears wrong here, then remove the binnacle and take measurements at the gauge itself checking for ground, +12V and the sending unit input. You should be able to measure the same resistance value for the sending unit at the gauge (may be a few ohms higher due to the length of wire from the sending unit to the gauge). Again, you can use the 47 ohm resistor from the sending unit input to ground and check the gauge for operation.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
Regarding the temp gauge. Wiring is quite simple in design and quite busy in implementation. In short, you have 3 connections on the temp gauge: +12V, Ground and the sending unit input. The sending unit acts as a variable resistor to ground, hence the gauge effectively reacts to a resistance change. A simple check with an ohmmeter can determine if the sending unit is bad by measuring between the engine block and the sending unit lead (water pump area). While the resistance range can vary depending on the sensor, most are ~50 ohms when temperature is about 90 Centigrade. Resistance will be higher when colder. If you suspect a bad sending unit, get a standard 47 ohm 1 watt resistor and, using it in place of the sending unit, you should register ~90 C on the temp gauge.
If nothing appears wrong here, then remove the binnacle and take measurements at the gauge itself checking for ground, +12V and the sending unit input. You should be able to measure the same resistance value for the sending unit at the gauge (may be a few ohms higher due to the length of wire from the sending unit to the gauge). Again, you can use the 47 ohm resistor from the sending unit input to ground and check the gauge for operation.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
Thanks KM! You are my new best friend and source of valuable Esprit repair info! 
I checked the sending unit while leaving the ignition key turned on & noticed that the temp gauge registered correctly....I then switched off the key, and watched the needle drop..I repeated the procedure twice & all was well. I then tapped on the gauge face and the needle dropped down and did not climb back to showing engine temp..
I'm hoping the problem is a loose connection to the gauge and not the gauge itself.
Next up is figuring out why my boost gauge only shows max boost at .25 Do the frequency/solenoid valves fail often? The wastegates are moving so, I guess they are working. All of the lines seem sound.
Finally, I to find a good source for a performance ECU chip set and T valve. If the damn car is going to break all the time, at least I can make it run faster while it's working.
Jati
I checked the sending unit while leaving the ignition key turned on & noticed that the temp gauge registered correctly....I then switched off the key, and watched the needle drop..I repeated the procedure twice & all was well. I then tapped on the gauge face and the needle dropped down and did not climb back to showing engine temp..
I'm hoping the problem is a loose connection to the gauge and not the gauge itself.
Next up is figuring out why my boost gauge only shows max boost at .25 Do the frequency/solenoid valves fail often? The wastegates are moving so, I guess they are working. All of the lines seem sound.
Finally, I to find a good source for a performance ECU chip set and T valve. If the damn car is going to break all the time, at least I can make it run faster while it's working.
Jati
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