left on side of road
Discussion
It was a beuatiful evening, so took my baby for a ride to get my hair cut(any excuse will do). Got half way there and the car just sputtered and died. If I restart it, it starts fine and then 20 seconds or so then dies again. Waited for flatbed to come get me. As I waited about 20 minutes, decided to try again and the car stayed running. Cancelled tow and started home(missed my haircut, not than anyone cars). Everytime the car reaches operating temp, car shuts down. Seems to run well during this time. Also notice cooling fans only come on with a/c.Related? Just got back home after 4 20 minute rest periods. Seems to be a sensor shutting the car down, because the car never overheats. Possible fuel pump? Have heard of pumps working intermitantly. Any thoughts appreciated before I take it to my mechanic.
thanks
Brad
89SE
thanks
Brad
89SE
_Usually_ when they go they seem to make a whirring noise which you will hear briefly when the key is turned on, then after you start. When mine went out, it started to make the noise only after it warmed up. If you let the car cool down, it stopped making the noise. I suppose it is possible for the pump to go bad without making extra noises and be intermittant like you are experiencing.
Takes 3 things to make a (gas) motor run:
* Fuel
* Spark
* Timing
When you car is acting up, that is, won't run, you need to check for fuel and spark. We will assume the timing is OK because it will start after it cools down. Check for spark by pulling a plug wire, putting a plastic handled #2 phillips screwdriver in the end of the wire, hold shaft near something metal and grounded (like the motor, bracket, etc.) by the plastic handle and have the wife crank the motor. Spark jumps? Spark OK. No spark: Ignition/ecm issue. Hook a fuel pressure guage (O'Reilly's) to the fuel rail, turn on ignition and/or crank motor (on Toyota's you have to crank the motor). Fuel pressure should be around 40-ish. If it is 0 or 10, you've got problems. Alternate method: Pull spark plug, shine flash light down hole, have wife crank motor. See fuel cloud?
Do those tests when the car has warmed and won't run and you will almost certainly find your problem.
Dr.Hess
Takes 3 things to make a (gas) motor run:
* Fuel
* Spark
* Timing
When you car is acting up, that is, won't run, you need to check for fuel and spark. We will assume the timing is OK because it will start after it cools down. Check for spark by pulling a plug wire, putting a plastic handled #2 phillips screwdriver in the end of the wire, hold shaft near something metal and grounded (like the motor, bracket, etc.) by the plastic handle and have the wife crank the motor. Spark jumps? Spark OK. No spark: Ignition/ecm issue. Hook a fuel pressure guage (O'Reilly's) to the fuel rail, turn on ignition and/or crank motor (on Toyota's you have to crank the motor). Fuel pressure should be around 40-ish. If it is 0 or 10, you've got problems. Alternate method: Pull spark plug, shine flash light down hole, have wife crank motor. See fuel cloud?
Do those tests when the car has warmed and won't run and you will almost certainly find your problem.
Dr.Hess
we suffered very similar symptoms on our V8. it was stalling when hot, idler went nuts when slowed down quickly (coming off of dual carraige ways etc.) and often stalled. it also took some time to start after short breaks ie we went out and about, called in a shop etc for 10 or 20 mins then came out and tried to start the car it took a little longer than usuall. went a bit weired when using the air con. in our case it was diagnosed (by Lotus Factory) as having three damaged cylinders, requiring a rebuild. that of course is on a V8 though so may be different on yours, sorry if i scared you unneccessarily. but it does sound similar.
Andrew S
V8 Se
Andrew S
V8 Se
If we're telling stories...
My wife had a '76 Ford Elite, 351M. Did the same thing, leaving her stranded numerous times in the decade she owned it. Dies on you. Call the tow truck, tow truck gets there, starts right up. Did it to me a time or two and I diagnosed it as ignition, particularly the pickup sensor, which I replaced a couple of times. The thing ate them. I finally fixed it once and for all by buying a rebuilt distributor for a 1975 Ford 400 which was the same block but with points instead of the electronics. Put that in and never had another problem with it.
I still say fuel pump #1, _maybe_ ignition #2 in your case. I only rank them this way because fuel pumps seem to go out regularly and ignition systems seem to be pretty robust. We are talking about a Delco system, aren't we?
Dr.Hess
My wife had a '76 Ford Elite, 351M. Did the same thing, leaving her stranded numerous times in the decade she owned it. Dies on you. Call the tow truck, tow truck gets there, starts right up. Did it to me a time or two and I diagnosed it as ignition, particularly the pickup sensor, which I replaced a couple of times. The thing ate them. I finally fixed it once and for all by buying a rebuilt distributor for a 1975 Ford 400 which was the same block but with points instead of the electronics. Put that in and never had another problem with it.
I still say fuel pump #1, _maybe_ ignition #2 in your case. I only rank them this way because fuel pumps seem to go out regularly and ignition systems seem to be pretty robust. We are talking about a Delco system, aren't we?
Dr.Hess
My 88 Turbo was doing something similar when I bought it. The PO had wired a switch in that bypassed the overboost switch....when ever the fuel would cut out, you would open the rear hatch, push the button and be off. The dealer traced the problem to either the overboost switch or one of the relays in the rear compartment. They did say what he had done was not the smartest thing and could have easily caused a fire. However, I do know he discovered the problem by accident when doing some work. My car would run fine most of the time..... but would just die on me even when I was at speed. Haven't had any problems since the dealer did his magic.
Still stumped. I have good spark. I do hear a humming noise when ignition is turned on, but this happens when cold or hot. Pulled plug to check fuel and seems to be fine. I can restart car even immediatly after it stalls, settles into idle and then 20 sec and dies. If I let cool will run again until gauge on coolant reads just over 80 deg and then like a switch it sputters a couple of times and stalls. Haven't checked o2 sensor yet, but a buddy figures it might be getting vapour locked? Seems to be linked closely to coolant temp. Sorry for novice questions, as soon as time permits I will be taking it to a mechanic. Anyone know where to get service notes for 89SE. I am going to pick up a cheap laptop so I can use freescan.
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