Master Cyl. Oil Level?
Discussion
im probably totally wrong and thats why im asking first, but I thought the master cylinder was where the clutch hose came out of. I have a 95 s4s. I thought the master cylider had an oil type fluid for the clutch hydraulics. Isnt that the cap by the fuses in the nose that is attatched to the clutvh line???
solar said:
im probably totally wrong and thats why im asking first, but I thought the master cylinder was where the clutch hose came out of. I have a 95 s4s. I thought the master cylider had an oil type fluid for the clutch hydraulics. Isnt that the cap by the fuses in the nose that is attatched to the clutvh line???
I think what Calvin is so surprised about is you putting oil in your clutch master cylinder. I know what you meant, you just meant to say fluid right?
Should be nearly full I think, mine is anyway, a little off the top. If it's 3/4 then keep an eye on it and check to see if the flued is dirty. It should be clear. If it's dirty than it's a early indication that the seals are going. The dirt is black rubber from the seals breaking down.
Mine went last week in the middle of traffic, clutch pedal hit the floor and didn;t come back up.
It was fixed the same day with a new master cylinder which cost about £35 ($50ish) and an hour labour if that.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Dave Walters
ps. Calvin, You joker! LMTO LOL!
solar said:
I didnt do anything with the master cyl! Just asking questions. I guess that hydraulic fluid that i thought was oil means my seals are going???
Solar,
Hydraulic fluid is an oil, refined from petroleum, brake fluid is not. Polyalkylene Glycol Ether is the technical name of DOT #3 & #4 Brake fluid. It doesn't come from petroleum, but rather from processing certain types of rock, or in the case of DOT #5, which is silicone, from sand.
Your clutch master cylinder uses the same Castrol LMA Brake Fluid (Dot #4) as the braking system. As has been mentioned in other posts, brake fluid reacts with natural, vulcanized rubber and breaks it down, Castrol LMA is recommended because it reacts less vigorously, extending the life of the rubber seals.
If your fluid is very dark or opaque, this is due primarily to the carbon black being released from the vulcanized rubber seals as they breakdown.
As far as the fill level, there is a fill line on the exterior of the master cylinder which you should fill to. Like the brake master cylinder, as the brake pads and clutch plate wear, the pitons in the calipers and clutch slave cylinder must extrude further, lowering the amount of brake fluid left in the reservoir on the master cylinder, so the level drops. You never want the level to go below the 'low' line on the master as air may then be introduced into the system.
If you are replacing the clutch 'Red Hose', you should also rebuild the Master and replace the slave cylinder to insure they are in top form. If you do not, chances are they will fail in the near future anyway due to the increased force these worn seals will have to now withstand. It's just easier to do it all at once, bleed it once and not waste all the new brake fluid if these components fail in a month or so. Plus, everything will operate optimally. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
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