Help! Seized screw with stipped face~
Discussion
Last night I was changing the spark plugs, and found the rear two cylinders are running rich. While still waiting for the manometer to arrive, I think it wouldn't hurt to just take a half or quarter turn first. So I looked at the CO adjuster and found that one previous owner has stipped the face of the idle CO adjuster screw!!!! And the screws seems to be seized. (I suspect the front two barrels are also seized, just it is not yet tampered with, so the face is still in good shape)
What can I do?
What can I do?
Zak,
I doubt that the screw is stripped or that it is a standard screw at all. The cars came factory equipped with anti-tamper screws on the CO adjustment so only a qualified service tech could adjust them.
If you look down the barrel the 'screw' sits in, you'll find that the head isn't round. Rather it has two flat sides. If you plan on doing carb work yourself, you'll want to replace these anti-tamper screws with standard ones w/ slotted heads. These can be sourced from EuroCarb Ltd. (www.dellorto.co.uk) for just a couple bucks (be sure to order new 'O' rings along w/ the screws).
To remove the anti-tamper ones, I used a needle puller, a sort of hemostat w/ pointed tips (you could source these from a medical supply house, a model hobby store or maybe even a fishing tackle store as fishermen often keep a pair in their tackle box). I 'locked' on to the flats on either side of the head and turned them out(Other than the anti-tamper head, they are a standard needle screw). You may find a micro-needle nosed pliers would also do the job, but the needle puller works best because of it's 'locking' feature. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
I doubt that the screw is stripped or that it is a standard screw at all. The cars came factory equipped with anti-tamper screws on the CO adjustment so only a qualified service tech could adjust them.
If you look down the barrel the 'screw' sits in, you'll find that the head isn't round. Rather it has two flat sides. If you plan on doing carb work yourself, you'll want to replace these anti-tamper screws with standard ones w/ slotted heads. These can be sourced from EuroCarb Ltd. (www.dellorto.co.uk) for just a couple bucks (be sure to order new 'O' rings along w/ the screws).
To remove the anti-tamper ones, I used a needle puller, a sort of hemostat w/ pointed tips (you could source these from a medical supply house, a model hobby store or maybe even a fishing tackle store as fishermen often keep a pair in their tackle box). I 'locked' on to the flats on either side of the head and turned them out(Other than the anti-tamper head, they are a standard needle screw). You may find a micro-needle nosed pliers would also do the job, but the needle puller works best because of it's 'locking' feature. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
zak_62 said:
Outch~ The screw I was looking at does have a slotted face. They are the screw closest to the engine on carb.... number 1 and 2 still look OK with undamanged slots, but 3 and 4 look bad... I will try to see if I can get a photo shot of it.....
Zak,
I still think what you're looking at are the anti-tamper covers which look slotted in appearance. In any case, you'll need to replace the screws, probably all 4 of them because if they were screwed in so tight that they have siezed, you can bet that the needle will be flattened or bent.
Try a screw extractor such as the type Sears sells (19.95?). Care should be taken to ensure that no metal shavings drop inside the CO vent as you'll be looking at disassmbling the carbs if you do. I've never heard of these screws siezing, but I guess there's a first time for everything. Make certain you are screwing them anti-clockwise to extract them. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
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