S4S questions (BOV/antifreeze/turbo/clutch)

[95lotus]

Hi all,

I have a few questions that I couldn't find the answer to while googling through the Esprit Fact File:

1) I've just got through installing a BOV from PUK...at what level of vacuum should I set the valve to actuate at?

2) The style of BOV looks like the exhaust ports are around the circumference...should I expect to see oil droplets splattered around the engine compartment? BTW, one of the first things I noticed when I purchased the car was some oil droplets on rear window, driver's side (where the S4S logo is), which makes me wonder if the PO had made some mods that he didn't fess up to but removed them prior to sale. There's also a hose coupling that's joining 2 pieces of hose coming from the turbo, which prompted someone to ask me if I had modified it because it looks like someone had done so at one time. I'll know more after I pull the mem-cal this week to swap chips...I'm curious to see if the PROM is soldered down or socketed.

3) Any recommended brand of antifreeze in the US? I found the level quite low, which explains my weird temperature swings. It bothers me because I have never seen any evidence of leakage or overflow, and it had the C-service done ~4 months ago at the Lotus dealer. BTW, I also put in a bottle of "hy-per lube" super coolant (similar to water wetter) to help keep her a bit cooler in the AZ summers.

4) The cylinder down by the transmission has some fluid near the plastic housing, which is apparently the source of my slow leak (is this the "slave" cylinder?) Time to replace it?

5) The turbo had some oil on the exterior of it, near some of the housing bolts. I assume that this means the bearing and/or seals are worn and it's time for a rebuild? I also noticed during the BOV installation that there was a thin film of oil in the hoses before and after the intercooler.

6) When I start the S4S up, the boost gauge shows the engine pulling a vacuum until the first time the turbo spins up (after it's warmed up, of course), after which it reads 0 when it idle. A friend of mine has an S4 that doesn't do this. Is this normal for an S4S?

All in all, I've been having fun working on it. Something I highly recommend for new owners is to clean the underside of the car, especially the back half. It's a great way to get to know the parts, how it's put together, and you find potential issues like the clutch and turbo issues above. It's like waxing a car...that's when you find all of the flaws in the paint that you normally don't see.

I really enjoy reading the forum (daily!) and learning about these cars. The timing belt and brake fluid discussions have been quite helpful!

Thanks in advance everyone!

regards,
Bill

[flowers]

Hi,

I have a BOV that exhausts to the engine compartment and not had a drop of oil exit from it. I had that concern when I first installed it though.

By the way, if you haven't done so, how about registering your S4s at www.espritfactfile.com under the REGISTRY button on the left. I am trying to get our numbers up. I believe S4s registry is higher than any other model at this point.

Rich Flowers
'95 S4s
'79 JPS #040

[95LOTUS]

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the info. on the BOV...I was worried that I'd be in there wiping oil off of everything all the time (she's my daily ride!)

As far as registry goes, that was one of the first things I did after I bought the car! She's 63080 (Sherwood Forest Green).

thanks,
Bill

[thwagmostar]

1) I have the same BOV and have never seen/heard evidence that anything but the lowest setting is needed (full clockwise). However, there are times when I would expect to hear it, but there's nothing.

2) I have not had any oil spray. One possibility for the oil on the window is the PO turning the car over without the oil cap in place. The hose coupling could be the remnants of a boost controller, which could be installed without a change to the chip.

3) You may need to bleed the coolant system. I believe the location is the same as the SE, in the front of the driver side wheel well. Get the temps up, turn the heater on full and open the bleed. I'm in Arkansas and haven't had problems with engine temps, but the performance is noticeably less on hot days since the charge cooler can only cool to ambient temps. Monitoring with Freescan shows a lot more knocks on hot days. My theory is the increased MAT.

4) If this is the cylinder with a rod (at a cock-eyed angle) pushing on an ajustable nut attached to the clutch fork, then that's the slave. If it hasn't been done, rebuild it and the master, and replace the hose with an SS line offered at many places now. If it's your daily driver, do it asap.

5) Since my turbo oozes a little oil and I have confirmed that my cars performance is 100%, I'd say this is normal. I don't get drips, but enough that dirt collects on the oil. I also get a little oil in the intake, which I understand to be normal and comes from the oil seals in the stock turbo. It could be a sign of a damaged engine, but in my case, compression is good and has done it for 30K miles. I've never seen it spatter out of the BOV or into the engine compartment.

6) I've never noticed this, but the mechanical boost guage is notorious for sporadic readings. You could install an electric boost guage, if needed.

Scott Rushworth
Little Rock, AR
'89 SE

[cnh1990]

I have only seen one BOV with a radial exhaust that leaks oil. He put a filter on it to minimize it, a foam one for stacks will work. I have a radial exhaust BOV and mine never leaks.

Use the lowest setting on the BOV till you drive it for a month. It will loosen up and at that point you will move it 1/2 to 1 full click or rotation.

If the plunger gets too gunked up take it apart and clean it and the BOV will work much faster. If you do take it apart take care not to loose the set spring and ball as that is what gives you the click stop. Also never attach the hose the circ clip off as the valve will push in and the calibration will then be off. If this happens you must take apart the BOV to reset it.

All the previous advice are correct so rebuild the slave cyl the kit is 15 or 20 dollars.

Calvin 90 SE

>> Edited by cnh1990 on Monday 6th October 14:40

[95lotus]

Thanks Scott/Calvin!

I appreciate the info. I've got the coolant level filled, but I haven't bled the system yet...I don't remember ever doing that on a car before, but the last car I worked on myself was my '77 Firebird, and that was ~15 years ago. I would have thought that the air would work itself out of the system and show up as a low fluid level in the header tank. The temperature has been below 90C since I added the fluid except for when she was on the dyno today when she topped out at about 100C but promptly cooled down.

Luckily, the PO had a SS clutch line installed at the same time he replaced the clutch (which he told me was replaced w/an S4 clutch). I'll search around and find a rebuild kit for the master/slave cylinders.

I bought a compression gauge the other week...I hope to actually use it this weekend.

thanks again,
Bill

[AZ88Turbo]

95lotus said:

Thanks Scott/Calvin! I appreciate the info. I've got the coolant level filled, but I haven't bled the system yet...I don't remember ever doing that on a car before, but the last car I worked on myself was my '77 Firebird, and that was ~15 years ago. I would have thought that the air would work itself out of the system and show up as a low fluid level in the header tank. The temperature has been below 90C since I added the fluid except for when she was on the dyno today when she topped out at about 100C but promptly cooled down. Luckily, the PO had a SS clutch line installed at the same time he replaced the clutch (which he told me was replaced w/an S4 clutch). I'll search around and find a rebuild kit for the master/slave cylinders. I bought a compression gauge the other week...I hope to actually use it this weekend. thanks again, Bill

Bill,

Bleeding is easy, there is a little plastic key at the top of the rad on the LH side.

Take the gauge back, I have one you can use, I'll bring it over when we do the fuel line.

Mark
88 Turbo