new owner of an 89 Esprit
Discussion
Hi all,
I just bought a 1989 Esprit. It's not an SE, but it is clean and has only 26k original miles. The car had two owners and the immediate prior owner had the car since the early 1990's. It runs well, but the t-belt is original. This concerns me of course and I plan to tackle that over the winter.
My immediate questions are these:
1. My driver's side power window totally quit on me just a day after I bought the car. It worked fine one minute, then it quit with the window all the way down. I hear nothing when I try to move it back up. What gives?
2. My driver's side headlight won't go up, although I can see that it is lit.
3. I can't get any heat out of the heater controls. It's like no setting varies the temperature at all, regardless of the engine temp. It's always cool air. Never any heat at all!
4. How easy is it to bleed the clutch hydraulic system? The prior owner said that, in his experience, making sure this was bled properly lead to better shifting. I would like to do this but don't know how on the Lotus just yet.
5. There is a fuel smell in the cabin. I've read that this is likely a vaopr hose. Any comments on how to fix it?
Thanks for all your help in advance!
David
I just bought a 1989 Esprit. It's not an SE, but it is clean and has only 26k original miles. The car had two owners and the immediate prior owner had the car since the early 1990's. It runs well, but the t-belt is original. This concerns me of course and I plan to tackle that over the winter.
My immediate questions are these:
1. My driver's side power window totally quit on me just a day after I bought the car. It worked fine one minute, then it quit with the window all the way down. I hear nothing when I try to move it back up. What gives?
2. My driver's side headlight won't go up, although I can see that it is lit.
3. I can't get any heat out of the heater controls. It's like no setting varies the temperature at all, regardless of the engine temp. It's always cool air. Never any heat at all!
4. How easy is it to bleed the clutch hydraulic system? The prior owner said that, in his experience, making sure this was bled properly lead to better shifting. I would like to do this but don't know how on the Lotus just yet.
5. There is a fuel smell in the cabin. I've read that this is likely a vaopr hose. Any comments on how to fix it?
Thanks for all your help in advance!
David
Firstly welcome to Esprit ownership and the group (good choice of car!). Sounds to me like you problems are wireing. I would guess that if the car has only done 29K miles its spent a lot of time standing around.
1)My first point here would be to check the switch. Its a known fault where the switch is not really up to the job (Drives power to the motor direct) and tends to develop crud on the contacts. Either take it apart and clean or simply replace it.
2)Again probably wireing. Check the earth is correct and that the motor is getting power. (Use the other side to verify).
3) Do you hear the 'Flaps' move?. The heater tends to work well, Aircon is another matter.
4) My first point here is to replace the 'red hose' with a braded type if not already done. I actually only done mine this year and it made a huge difference to gear shifts. It only took a couple of hours including bleeding. Use EazyBleed or your'll be at it for hours.
5) Buy a new hose and replace. Apparently not that hard but have not done mine. Irronically I did get a fuel smell in the cabin the other day so I'll probably know first hand soon. The other alternative is rusting petrol tanks which mean big bills. Whats the surrounding seals like on your rear quarter windows?
Steve
>> Edited by unity1 on Thursday 27th November 17:00
1)My first point here would be to check the switch. Its a known fault where the switch is not really up to the job (Drives power to the motor direct) and tends to develop crud on the contacts. Either take it apart and clean or simply replace it.
2)Again probably wireing. Check the earth is correct and that the motor is getting power. (Use the other side to verify).
3) Do you hear the 'Flaps' move?. The heater tends to work well, Aircon is another matter.
4) My first point here is to replace the 'red hose' with a braded type if not already done. I actually only done mine this year and it made a huge difference to gear shifts. It only took a couple of hours including bleeding. Use EazyBleed or your'll be at it for hours.
5) Buy a new hose and replace. Apparently not that hard but have not done mine. Irronically I did get a fuel smell in the cabin the other day so I'll probably know first hand soon. The other alternative is rusting petrol tanks which mean big bills. Whats the surrounding seals like on your rear quarter windows?
Steve
>> Edited by unity1 on Thursday 27th November 17:00
I have had my '89 non-SE since 1996. Now some answers:
1. I would check the electrical connections to the fuse box. You need to do this in the Lotus position side as a toe can pull out the connections from the foot well side of the box. Check the amp load on the battery when you use the window switch. If it shows high amps, the mechanism is in a jam or the motor is bad. If no amps its the connections. There is a VW solution called "Stabilant 22A" used to recondition electrical conditions. It will fix corroded connections.
2. Is the motor turning? If so, read one of my earlier posts on fixing the gears of the pod. I also had the dash switch go out. If the light flashing action works but not the normal operation, then the switch is bad. It can with difficulty be changed without removing the binacle or with more difficulty by removing the binacle.
3.You need to find out whether the heater core is getting hot water, water diverter valve cable or valve bad, or is the system flappers not getting vacuum to move. Do any of the direction flappers move?
4. Clutch bleeding. I have a post about the procedures to do this. They apply whether you have the red hose or not. The power bleeder is needed if you can't find three mechanical type people.
5.Fuel smell. Use regular fuel line for tubing replacement. I used flexible PVC but it tends to harden.
If you are mechanically savvy, definitely buy the shop manuals, both the EMG and service notes. If you are rich and have a local Lotus dealer, then don't bother. But if like me you have neither and are mechanically inclined, get the manuals. The repairings are like being on an F1 team.
A few other points. My voltage regulator on my alternator has melted 3 times. Its an easy replacment if it hasn't melted into the alternator but a good electrics shop can rebuild the alternator easy. They are about $600 new. If the radiator fans come on as soon as you turn the ignition, your chip is bad. I had it out for nearly 5 years without knowing it. It still ran good though. The best, cheap upgrade you can do is attach the 1 inch lip spoiler, about $150. It sticks the front end to the road. I also took out the spare for less oversteer and cut out the muffler to drop 40 pounds. I also changed out the steering wheel pad with the Europa horn button.
Hope this helps, Help is only an email away on this site.
lotusman '89 non-SE
1. I would check the electrical connections to the fuse box. You need to do this in the Lotus position side as a toe can pull out the connections from the foot well side of the box. Check the amp load on the battery when you use the window switch. If it shows high amps, the mechanism is in a jam or the motor is bad. If no amps its the connections. There is a VW solution called "Stabilant 22A" used to recondition electrical conditions. It will fix corroded connections.
2. Is the motor turning? If so, read one of my earlier posts on fixing the gears of the pod. I also had the dash switch go out. If the light flashing action works but not the normal operation, then the switch is bad. It can with difficulty be changed without removing the binacle or with more difficulty by removing the binacle.
3.You need to find out whether the heater core is getting hot water, water diverter valve cable or valve bad, or is the system flappers not getting vacuum to move. Do any of the direction flappers move?
4. Clutch bleeding. I have a post about the procedures to do this. They apply whether you have the red hose or not. The power bleeder is needed if you can't find three mechanical type people.
5.Fuel smell. Use regular fuel line for tubing replacement. I used flexible PVC but it tends to harden.
If you are mechanically savvy, definitely buy the shop manuals, both the EMG and service notes. If you are rich and have a local Lotus dealer, then don't bother. But if like me you have neither and are mechanically inclined, get the manuals. The repairings are like being on an F1 team.
A few other points. My voltage regulator on my alternator has melted 3 times. Its an easy replacment if it hasn't melted into the alternator but a good electrics shop can rebuild the alternator easy. They are about $600 new. If the radiator fans come on as soon as you turn the ignition, your chip is bad. I had it out for nearly 5 years without knowing it. It still ran good though. The best, cheap upgrade you can do is attach the 1 inch lip spoiler, about $150. It sticks the front end to the road. I also took out the spare for less oversteer and cut out the muffler to drop 40 pounds. I also changed out the steering wheel pad with the Europa horn button.
Hope this helps, Help is only an email away on this site.
lotusman '89 non-SE
Hi guys,
Thanks for the responses. Here's some additional info.
1. The headlamp does not make any noise or movement. The pass side one goes up no problem, the drivers side one just sits there. There's no struggling going on; it just doesn't move.
2. The power window switches... I've already tried to swap them since I know the pass side one works. No good. I checked for power on both and they read the same on the voltmeter. I'm wondering if there's a pinched or sliced wire down in there somewhere?
3. The electric fans DO come on as soon as the key is turned on. What is this "bad chip" issue? The car runs okay.
4. I don't hear any flaps moving when I re-orient the heater knobs. In fact, the airflow doesn't seem to change at all regardless of what I turn, except for the fan speed switch.
5. Can I simply run with no muffler? The car has kind of a non-distinct sound to it. I am by no means the kind of guy who buys a car strictly for its sound, but I would like to hear the engine not a little bit.
6. How often and hard how is the routine valve adjustment?
Thanks!!!! I'm really glad I found this site. I am a mechanically adventurous person. Meaning, if I haven't already done it, I'm not scared to try. I have had an old Porsche 912E for years and by now I know virtually every part of it. In fact, the engine and gearbox are sitting on my garage floor since I am going to do some serious work this winter, both are being rebuilt and I'm installing a Quaife LSD for autocrossing.
Thanks!
David
Thanks for the responses. Here's some additional info.
1. The headlamp does not make any noise or movement. The pass side one goes up no problem, the drivers side one just sits there. There's no struggling going on; it just doesn't move.
2. The power window switches... I've already tried to swap them since I know the pass side one works. No good. I checked for power on both and they read the same on the voltmeter. I'm wondering if there's a pinched or sliced wire down in there somewhere?
3. The electric fans DO come on as soon as the key is turned on. What is this "bad chip" issue? The car runs okay.
4. I don't hear any flaps moving when I re-orient the heater knobs. In fact, the airflow doesn't seem to change at all regardless of what I turn, except for the fan speed switch.
5. Can I simply run with no muffler? The car has kind of a non-distinct sound to it. I am by no means the kind of guy who buys a car strictly for its sound, but I would like to hear the engine not a little bit.
6. How often and hard how is the routine valve adjustment?
Thanks!!!! I'm really glad I found this site. I am a mechanically adventurous person. Meaning, if I haven't already done it, I'm not scared to try. I have had an old Porsche 912E for years and by now I know virtually every part of it. In fact, the engine and gearbox are sitting on my garage floor since I am going to do some serious work this winter, both are being rebuilt and I'm installing a Quaife LSD for autocrossing.
Thanks!
David
Lotus position. Your'll find out. It involves laying on you back in the footwell. Easy to get in but a bugger to move and get out. Usually done with a touch in your mouth.
Lamp lift. Check its getting power. I'm sure both motors come off the same relay.
Window motor. Again take off the door panel and check for power shoudlonly take 5 minutes.
Lamp lift. Check its getting power. I'm sure both motors come off the same relay.
Window motor. Again take off the door panel and check for power shoudlonly take 5 minutes.
I have a 90SE and experienced the same problem with the driver side window. Take the door panel off and give the gearbox a rap while holding the up position on the switch . It will come up but you have a loose motor gearbox assembly and it is twisting slightly when it hits bottom. This is not a very robust mount and needs to be removed the rivets drilled and replaced. Have you cranked the light pod up via the hand wheel situated on the top rear of the pod ? Get it all the way up then raise the lights and lower them again, if they both go down then you have a power problem to that side of the motor.
Regards
Windsor 90SE
Regards
Windsor 90SE
I, too, have an 89 non-SE. Should you need them, the window motors are from a Jag and sell on eBay for between $1 and $250, depending. I bought one for about $12 delivered and another for about $20 delivered. Headlight motors are a GM part. Forget from what, but I have it written down somewhere. Window switches are about $20-25 from JAE.
Study the www.EspritFactFile.com for details on pulling the door panels, fixing your fuel smell, etc.
Dr.Hess
Study the www.EspritFactFile.com for details on pulling the door panels, fixing your fuel smell, etc.
Dr.Hess
Hi David, welcome!! looks like the guys answered most of your questions, if you find its the motor gone in your window, the part is out of a 88Jag will confirm what model etc when I get home from work or you can email me off line anyway. We recently did my drivers side, after changing the swtiches, relubing and cleaning all connections. Finding out what the part no.s are will save you $$$
Upgrading the red hose is a must.
Check out my profile for a few other small mods.
Mine is a 89 non SE, Carbed version.
Cheers
Kylie
Upgrading the red hose is a must.
Check out my profile for a few other small mods.
Mine is a 89 non SE, Carbed version.
Cheers
Kylie
5. There is a fuel smell in the cabin. I've read that this is likely a vaopr hose. Any comments on how to fix it?
I've just replaced the fuel hose, I've emailed Kato a detailed report on how to do it, so he may have it on LEW.
if you wish me to email instructions on how to do it let me know.
Rgds
Dictys 89 SE
I've just replaced the fuel hose, I've emailed Kato a detailed report on how to do it, so he may have it on LEW.
if you wish me to email instructions on how to do it let me know.
Rgds
Dictys 89 SE
Thanks for all the help guys!
I fixed the headlight today. Not sure what I did, but it works now. Basically I cleaned some connections, lubricated the moving parts, cranked it up and down manually and then when I tested it-it worked.
Tomorrow, I'll tackle the power window.
Also, what's the website for this "JAE" place? I'm in the US and I'd like to find a reliable source for parts for this car.
Thanks again guys!
David
I fixed the headlight today. Not sure what I did, but it works now. Basically I cleaned some connections, lubricated the moving parts, cranked it up and down manually and then when I tested it-it worked.
Tomorrow, I'll tackle the power window.
Also, what's the website for this "JAE" place? I'm in the US and I'd like to find a reliable source for parts for this car.
Thanks again guys!
David
Your motor sometimes gets stuck. Giving it a small rap will get it to move.
You can also take the worm drive set screw off the top of the assembly and lube the worm gear that will make the anemic motor work with less strain in fact it will speed up a lot. When replacing the set screw do not over tighten as this will cause the motor to bind.
The flap actuator or the vac line that operates the heater flap is disconnected it is very easy to do if you are rooting around the radio pod or under the dash
The outside vents will always pump cold air and need to shut off with the thumbwheels if so desired, only the footwell vent hoes, 2 inside dash vents and windscreen defoggers will actually pump warm air. For heat, the left knob should be counter clockwise in the red zone and the right should be at 11 o'clock with the vents mentioned abouve working. 7 o'clock is almost all wind screen defoggers.
Good luck,
Calvin
You can also take the worm drive set screw off the top of the assembly and lube the worm gear that will make the anemic motor work with less strain in fact it will speed up a lot. When replacing the set screw do not over tighten as this will cause the motor to bind.
The flap actuator or the vac line that operates the heater flap is disconnected it is very easy to do if you are rooting around the radio pod or under the dash
The outside vents will always pump cold air and need to shut off with the thumbwheels if so desired, only the footwell vent hoes, 2 inside dash vents and windscreen defoggers will actually pump warm air. For heat, the left knob should be counter clockwise in the red zone and the right should be at 11 o'clock with the vents mentioned abouve working. 7 o'clock is almost all wind screen defoggers.
Good luck,
Calvin
dr.hess said:
Hey Calvin, et.al.,
My headlights have a bit of ptosis, that is, they droop some after going over bumpy roads. The right mostly. If I turn them off then back on, they come back up to full open. Any ideas?
It could be the nylon bits in the motor gears. Check my pictorial page on replacing these at http://turboesprit.tripod.com/headlight/index.html
Repair kits are available from Rodney Dickman at www.rodneydickman.com/retail.html
Click on Electrical and scroll down to Headlight, you'll see a link for Lotus Esprit there.
Cheers,
Sanj
I read all but two of your problems have been answered. Here is their answers. I found out from Marcus(the German who provides the new chips for Motoconcepts) that when the radiator fans come on after turning the ignition that it means the chip in the ECM is not working. You are in "get it home" mode. Indeed, when I put in the new 15 chip into the ECM and turned the ignition the fans did not come on. After changing back to the old chip to see if the problem returned, it did. Do you have any check engine light?
The price of the number 15 (the one for non-SE's) and a new chip are about the same, $450 or so, get the 15. Sanj also provides the chip in the US.
I have had my muffler off since March 2002. I was tired of the car sounding like a sewing machine. It burbles now when you get off the gas. The muffler is nearly 40 pounds as well. Apparently the catalyst and turbo provide sufficient back pressure to allow good heat dissipation in the exhaust valves. Decibels in the car are about 65, about loud talk level. And about 80 dB, 10 feet behind the car.
This is a great group of people, isn't it?
Lotusman
'89 non-SE
The price of the number 15 (the one for non-SE's) and a new chip are about the same, $450 or so, get the 15. Sanj also provides the chip in the US.
I have had my muffler off since March 2002. I was tired of the car sounding like a sewing machine. It burbles now when you get off the gas. The muffler is nearly 40 pounds as well. Apparently the catalyst and turbo provide sufficient back pressure to allow good heat dissipation in the exhaust valves. Decibels in the car are about 65, about loud talk level. And about 80 dB, 10 feet behind the car.
This is a great group of people, isn't it?
Lotusman
'89 non-SE
Dave,
regarding your electic window. If it turns out that the motor has seized, don't go straight out and buy another one, it's possible it can be fixed. You need to take the motor apart, there's a full procedure shown on www.espritfactfile.com. I have followed this procedure to fix the motor and now it works a treat.
Godd luck, Richard.
regarding your electic window. If it turns out that the motor has seized, don't go straight out and buy another one, it's possible it can be fixed. You need to take the motor apart, there's a full procedure shown on www.espritfactfile.com. I have followed this procedure to fix the motor and now it works a treat.
Godd luck, Richard.
Thanks again guys. I'm not too familiar with this board yet, how do I contact "Sanj the chip guy" about this problem? Also, if the car is running in limp home mode, I'd be impressed if it was any darned faster in top shape! The car is quite fast as it is. Would the chip problem also explain idling variance?
I did fix the window motor, methinks. Just a good take apart and clean up/grease. Works okay for now...
David
I did fix the window motor, methinks. Just a good take apart and clean up/grease. Works okay for now...
David
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