the delay on the brakes s4s
Discussion
Bruce,
What do you mean? Are you saying you push on the pedal and nothing happens for a period of time?
If that's the case, there is a problem somewhere. Or is it just that you are braking so hard that the abs engages? That's usually the major complaint about our brakes. Other than that the Brembos work pretty well.
Give us some more details.
Jim
95 S4s
What do you mean? Are you saying you push on the pedal and nothing happens for a period of time?
If that's the case, there is a problem somewhere. Or is it just that you are braking so hard that the abs engages? That's usually the major complaint about our brakes. Other than that the Brembos work pretty well.
Give us some more details.
Jim
95 S4s
it takes a good second for them to "bite" i mean if I push hard they sorta start to grab right away but then there is a sudden surge of pressure and it will go right in to lockup/ABS.... If I put a normal amount of force I have to wait a sec then the pressure builds and I get good solid braking.....but that is like several car lengths of panic...
I wonder about a sticky caliper, or something like that.. the pump and accumulator seem to operate normally. (time to charge is ok and cycles every 4-6 applications)
I am open to suggestions...
I wonder about a sticky caliper, or something like that.. the pump and accumulator seem to operate normally. (time to charge is ok and cycles every 4-6 applications)
I am open to suggestions...
Try bleeding your brakes first as you may have some air in the system, also how old is the fluid?
Bleeding the Delco system is a pain. You need to bleed the front calipers first (starting on the right) with the ignition off (after letting the pump pressurise the system). Then you need to do the rears, with the igntion on. Then the master cylinder has two bleed nipples, which need doing. You'll also need to check your fluid, by depressurising the system first, by pumping the pedal 40 times before removing the top of the master cylinder to top up the fluid. To repressurise, make sure the tops on firmly, then turn the ignition on (don't start the car) and you'll hear the pump run to pressurise it.
Then if the pump runs continuously for more than 60 seconds, you need to bleed the pipes that go to the front calipers.
You then have to reset everything by following a quick procedure.
As for fluid, see link for lubricants recommended by LEW:
www.lotusespritworld.com/ETechnical/oil.html
Could fix you're problem for only your time and some brake fluid. Definately the first place to start.
I would make sure you have a copy of the procedure from the manual before you start. I'll be doing a guide for LEW on this in the near future.
Hope this is helpful.
kato
Lotus Esprit World
p.s. Remember brake fluid will damage your paint work, so be careful.
Bleeding the Delco system is a pain. You need to bleed the front calipers first (starting on the right) with the ignition off (after letting the pump pressurise the system). Then you need to do the rears, with the igntion on. Then the master cylinder has two bleed nipples, which need doing. You'll also need to check your fluid, by depressurising the system first, by pumping the pedal 40 times before removing the top of the master cylinder to top up the fluid. To repressurise, make sure the tops on firmly, then turn the ignition on (don't start the car) and you'll hear the pump run to pressurise it.
Then if the pump runs continuously for more than 60 seconds, you need to bleed the pipes that go to the front calipers.
You then have to reset everything by following a quick procedure.
As for fluid, see link for lubricants recommended by LEW:
www.lotusespritworld.com/ETechnical/oil.html
Could fix you're problem for only your time and some brake fluid. Definately the first place to start.
I would make sure you have a copy of the procedure from the manual before you start. I'll be doing a guide for LEW on this in the near future.
Hope this is helpful.
kato
Lotus Esprit World
p.s. Remember brake fluid will damage your paint work, so be careful.
Shouldn't be a problem for a GM dealer to service it. The abs system is very basic and one they are familiar with.
I'm assuming you don't know the service history on the car, so go ahead and have them completely flush the system, not just bleed it. That is to completely replace all the old fluid. This should be done at least once a year. If there are any other problems with the system I'm sure they can troubleshoot it.
Some of us here prefer a high grade high temp fluid such as Motul 600 or Castrol GT LMA (recommended by Lotus) but any good DOT 4 will work fine.
Here's a good post on the subject:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=45458&f=17&h=0&hw=brake+fluid
I'm assuming you don't know the service history on the car, so go ahead and have them completely flush the system, not just bleed it. That is to completely replace all the old fluid. This should be done at least once a year. If there are any other problems with the system I'm sure they can troubleshoot it.
Some of us here prefer a high grade high temp fluid such as Motul 600 or Castrol GT LMA (recommended by Lotus) but any good DOT 4 will work fine.
Here's a good post on the subject:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=45458&f=17&h=0&hw=brake+fluid
I would still like to know why everyone wants to bleed bleed bleed
my 88, 91, and 97 BMW get afluid flush occasionally. and the brakes are always fine, instant hard pedal..
what it the technical reason for Lotus to need bleeding..
As far as changing the fluid it is for sure good maintenance. but if the fluid is clear and there is low moisture content, there is no need to change.
and even with some moisture the boiling point is lowered, but I am not having that problem...
Corrosion is a bit of myth, for corrosion you need Oxygen... Some pitting happens sometims i hear, but technically cant be from just water...
my 88, 91, and 97 BMW get afluid flush occasionally. and the brakes are always fine, instant hard pedal..
what it the technical reason for Lotus to need bleeding..
As far as changing the fluid it is for sure good maintenance. but if the fluid is clear and there is low moisture content, there is no need to change.
and even with some moisture the boiling point is lowered, but I am not having that problem...
Corrosion is a bit of myth, for corrosion you need Oxygen... Some pitting happens sometims i hear, but technically cant be from just water...
bojangles said:
do you think that there is a local expert on this?
GM cars must have the same problem and need frequent bleeding.. Will the local pontiac dealer be properly trained to do this work?? how risky is that?
The brakes and/or any of the hydraulic systems should not need frequent bleeding. If they do, you have a problem somewhere.
They do however require periodic maintenance according to the maintenance schedules. If all the required maintenance of all the car systems are done properly and at the scheduled intervals these cars are really pretty reliable. It seems to me that most of the problems you see listed on a regular basis are due to a lack of keeping up with the car and not driving it enough.
Our cars do appear to be more sensitive to this than most cars which most people just get in and drive and all they do is put gas in it and change the oil every 10,000 miles. I wouldn't have believed it before I got one but I swear these cars do have a personality and love to be pampered and driven. If not they cause problems, just like a woman.
Also just about all of the maintenance that needs to be done with the exception maybe of the timing belt can be handled by someone with just a little mechanical ability, the proper tools and following the proper procedures.
Do you know the service history of your car? I did not when I bought mine and so the first thing I did over the next few months was to go through and do it all. Brakes, brake fluid, clutch fluid, tranny fluid, engine oil, coolant, coating all the fuses with dielectric grease, etc. so you have a benchmark to start keeping up with it. If you have to pay someone else to do this it will get very expensive in a hurry.
If you want to learn to do this yourself, break down and buy the service and parts manuals even if you have to pay retail (about $300). You'll get your money back with the first service you do.
If not, you better have deep pockets......
JMHO,
Jim
One other thing on the bleeding/flushing.
When I flushed mine I bought a handy bleeder tool (www.brakebleeder.com/)because I had read all the posts about people having such a tough time bleeding the brake and clutch systems. Having to do it over and over again, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and leaving it overnight trying to get all the air out, etc.
I had never bled a clutch in my life before this one. I replaced the red hose at the same time and using the Phoenix Injector, I pressure flushed from the clutch master until all the old fluid was out and no more bubbles. Took about 30 minutes, did it once, and haven't had to bleed it since and that's been almost a year.
Same with the brakes.
Maybe I'm just lucky...
Jim
95 S4s
When I flushed mine I bought a handy bleeder tool (www.brakebleeder.com/)because I had read all the posts about people having such a tough time bleeding the brake and clutch systems. Having to do it over and over again, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and leaving it overnight trying to get all the air out, etc.
I had never bled a clutch in my life before this one. I replaced the red hose at the same time and using the Phoenix Injector, I pressure flushed from the clutch master until all the old fluid was out and no more bubbles. Took about 30 minutes, did it once, and haven't had to bleed it since and that's been almost a year.
Same with the brakes.
Maybe I'm just lucky...
Jim
95 S4s
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