Front Suspension
Discussion
Does a front suspension reduce vibration significantly?
The reason I ask is I currently have a Cignal Kokomo hybrid bike which is around 14 years old. I use it mainly for pleasure cycing, short distances either on-road or along old railways that are now cycle tracks. Have also done the London to Brighton on it several times, and last year did the Way of the Roses -Bridlington to Morecambe and now the point of the question!
On the long ride last year I expected it to be my bum and legs that were knackered however the reality was it was my hands! by the end of Day 2 they had virtually seized as if they were still holding th handlebars, to such an extent that cutting up a steak was very difficult!
So we are currently being offered a cycle to work scheme through Halfords, and I am wondering if I should take the opportunity to renew my bike, and start cycling to the station. Would getting a bike with a front suspension cut out vibration and therefore reduce the damage to my hands!
Also I see on threads mentioning of locking out the suspension. Why would one do this?
The reason I ask is I currently have a Cignal Kokomo hybrid bike which is around 14 years old. I use it mainly for pleasure cycing, short distances either on-road or along old railways that are now cycle tracks. Have also done the London to Brighton on it several times, and last year did the Way of the Roses -Bridlington to Morecambe and now the point of the question!
On the long ride last year I expected it to be my bum and legs that were knackered however the reality was it was my hands! by the end of Day 2 they had virtually seized as if they were still holding th handlebars, to such an extent that cutting up a steak was very difficult!
So we are currently being offered a cycle to work scheme through Halfords, and I am wondering if I should take the opportunity to renew my bike, and start cycling to the station. Would getting a bike with a front suspension cut out vibration and therefore reduce the damage to my hands!
Also I see on threads mentioning of locking out the suspension. Why would one do this?
IMHO, suspension forks are only really worthwile if you're doing any reasonably bumpy offroad stuff. Maybe try some spongy grips and a softer front tire pressure for a while to see if you notice any benefits before you spunk any cash on the C2W scheme. On the other hand, it's nice to get a new bike every once in a while.
The lock-out is there to prevent fork compression, and therefore energy wastage, when climbing or road riding.
The lock-out is there to prevent fork compression, and therefore energy wastage, when climbing or road riding.
You could be experiencing vibtations due to the
material the forks are made of. I Don't have a road bike but reviews seem to suggest that carbon forks make for a more comfortable ride.
With regard to locking the front forks it's mainly beneficial when climbing as it stop the front end bouncing up and down which wastes energy. It also makes the handling a bit more predictable on the road.
Do you wear padded gloves?
material the forks are made of. I Don't have a road bike but reviews seem to suggest that carbon forks make for a more comfortable ride.
With regard to locking the front forks it's mainly beneficial when climbing as it stop the front end bouncing up and down which wastes energy. It also makes the handling a bit more predictable on the road.
Do you wear padded gloves?
No to the padded gloves, although what I have found is my local DIY gloves sells thermal workments gloves. They are great for gardening, and doing DIY outdoors, and keep my fingers supple, so I might try them on the bike as well.
So front suspension is not the cure, a new bike with different forks might be though. Hmmm best study whats available from Halfords! Has to be Halfords under the cycle to work scheme, and its the interest free loan bit I like!
So front suspension is not the cure, a new bike with different forks might be though. Hmmm best study whats available from Halfords! Has to be Halfords under the cycle to work scheme, and its the interest free loan bit I like!
I have very rigid aluminium forks which is one of the worst materials for transmitting road vibration. CF forks will almost certainly dampen that but I've ridden a couple bikes recently with decent sus forks (air forks) which are an absolute revelation. These are hybrids with limited travel forks too (~60mm). It's like gliding.
I'm tempted... if I could find a 700c fork with disc-only mounts, and air sprung, I'd put them on my birthday list.
I'm tempted... if I could find a 700c fork with disc-only mounts, and air sprung, I'd put them on my birthday list.
So this gives me a choice of the Boardman hybrid with carbon forks or the Raleigh Urban 3 (if I can find one) or the Raleigh Urban 5 assumming I go down the Hybrid route.
I am assuming Hybrid is the way to go as my cycling will be on road, or on cycle trails on old railways etc. Although last year on the Way of the Roses the group I was with decided we would take the off road route rather than dropping down into Pateley Bridge. This meant a rather rough ride along a loose shale track. Much to my colleagues surprise I only got stuck and stopped at one point and it was the same point the others who were much fitter and more expert than me got stuck on their mountain bikes. So why have a mountain bike!
I am assuming Hybrid is the way to go as my cycling will be on road, or on cycle trails on old railways etc. Although last year on the Way of the Roses the group I was with decided we would take the off road route rather than dropping down into Pateley Bridge. This meant a rather rough ride along a loose shale track. Much to my colleagues surprise I only got stuck and stopped at one point and it was the same point the others who were much fitter and more expert than me got stuck on their mountain bikes. So why have a mountain bike!
Chrisgr31 said:
So this gives me a choice of the Boardman hybrid with carbon forks or the Raleigh Urban 3 (if I can find one) or the Raleigh Urban 5 assumming I go down the Hybrid route.
I am assuming Hybrid is the way to go as my cycling will be on road, or on cycle trails on old railways etc. Although last year on the Way of the Roses the group I was with decided we would take the off road route rather than dropping down into Pateley Bridge. This meant a rather rough ride along a loose shale track. Much to my colleagues surprise I only got stuck and stopped at one point and it was the same point the others who were much fitter and more expert than me got stuck on their mountain bikes. So why have a mountain bike!
So in spite of all the advice given, you have decided to go for the expensive option of jumping into the C2W scheme. If you were going to disregard all the replies people wrote, there wasn't really much point in asking the question in the first place I am assuming Hybrid is the way to go as my cycling will be on road, or on cycle trails on old railways etc. Although last year on the Way of the Roses the group I was with decided we would take the off road route rather than dropping down into Pateley Bridge. This meant a rather rough ride along a loose shale track. Much to my colleagues surprise I only got stuck and stopped at one point and it was the same point the others who were much fitter and more expert than me got stuck on their mountain bikes. So why have a mountain bike!
I was in a similar situation a couple of months ago where I thought I knew what I wanted, and came on here for advice/reassurance. Turns out I was very wide of the mark. Taking on board the advice of the very knowledgeable chaps on here, I ended up with a bike which I am very happy with.
Surely you are better off following the advice of those here before spunking a load of cash on a new bike and tying yourself into a couple of years worth of payments (for example, Lidl were doing bar ends the other week for £7 - C2W you will end up blowing £600-1000)?
Well I am going to get the bar ends and gloves as well!
I may of course be spunking the cash against the wall but the reality is I am not going to dare ride my old bike for fear of the problem reoccuring even with bar ends and gloves. So therefore I wont be riding at all. I'll also need to wait a year for the C2W scheme to come round again before I can afford a bike anyway!
So my plan is to try a new bike which will hopefully reduce the vibration in the first place, then gloves to further reduce it, and bar ends to offer a change in riding position.
So I am listening to the advice on here!
I may of course be spunking the cash against the wall but the reality is I am not going to dare ride my old bike for fear of the problem reoccuring even with bar ends and gloves. So therefore I wont be riding at all. I'll also need to wait a year for the C2W scheme to come round again before I can afford a bike anyway!
So my plan is to try a new bike which will hopefully reduce the vibration in the first place, then gloves to further reduce it, and bar ends to offer a change in riding position.
So I am listening to the advice on here!
With the similar tires and similar pressures you'll get more vibration on a sus fork than a carbon as it's just a matter of the materials the forks are made out of and how that is transmitted to you.
Sus will smooth out some the hits and bigger bumps like potholes but sap momentum and add serious weight (perhaps as much as the frame itself), a carbon fork will take some of the buzz off the ride and you learn to miss the pot holes and how to bunny hop smoothly when you need too, you'd still need some good bar tape/grips and gloves to get the most protection from hand numbness & cramps. Rigid alu forks would be the worst possible material to make a fork out of for road riding. Unless you live in the French countryside where most of the roads are like riding on billiard tables in comparison to the UK.
If you have a flat bar bike, get some thick sunline lock on grips.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
A good pair of gel gloves first,
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx...
if that doesn't reduce the issue enough, then it's new fork/bike time.
Sus will smooth out some the hits and bigger bumps like potholes but sap momentum and add serious weight (perhaps as much as the frame itself), a carbon fork will take some of the buzz off the ride and you learn to miss the pot holes and how to bunny hop smoothly when you need too, you'd still need some good bar tape/grips and gloves to get the most protection from hand numbness & cramps. Rigid alu forks would be the worst possible material to make a fork out of for road riding. Unless you live in the French countryside where most of the roads are like riding on billiard tables in comparison to the UK.
If you have a flat bar bike, get some thick sunline lock on grips.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
A good pair of gel gloves first,
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx...
if that doesn't reduce the issue enough, then it's new fork/bike time.
Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 27th June 09:49
My old faithful commuter is a Mercian Audax with 531 tubing. It vibrates like crazy, and after 30 miles or so you're glad to be home.
I bought a Ribble winter trainer at the end of last year. A fairly cheap bike for what it is, but the frame and CF fork are leagues ahead of the Mercian - there is very little vibration.
Your riding position may also be at fault, a lot of the pressure on your hands could be because you're leaning and placing all your weight on the bars. Try and relax a little, if the road is smooth and straight, relax your grip, lean back a bit, maybe rest your hands on top of the bars. It all helps.
Just don't go spending a wodge of cash to fix a problem that might not be the bike.
I bought a Ribble winter trainer at the end of last year. A fairly cheap bike for what it is, but the frame and CF fork are leagues ahead of the Mercian - there is very little vibration.
Your riding position may also be at fault, a lot of the pressure on your hands could be because you're leaning and placing all your weight on the bars. Try and relax a little, if the road is smooth and straight, relax your grip, lean back a bit, maybe rest your hands on top of the bars. It all helps.
Just don't go spending a wodge of cash to fix a problem that might not be the bike.
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