Creating a relIable MTB
Discussion
buy a bicycle maintenance book and maintain it yourself. there is no point letting a shop maintain as they charge a fortune for basic tasks and will be no help when something fails on the trail in the middle of a forest so you need to know how it all bolts together.
you dont need to be mechanical or a dab hand with a spanner, as everything can be removed with a multi-tool. you will need a 3/4/5/6 and 8mm allen key, a phillips head and flat head screw driver. you can pick up a good multi tool for about £20 with a chain splitting tool.
on that subject, get experience of splitting and re-linking a chain, again its something you may need out on the trails and could save you a long walk home. chains break when shifting under pressure and no disrespect but newbies sometimes leave shifting on climbs too late, put the chain under pressure and the chain will snap.
use a proper bike lube, not wd40 or gt85. keep it clean and keep an eye on the cables. you wont need to upgrade anything on the bike for years. just enjoy it.
you dont need to be mechanical or a dab hand with a spanner, as everything can be removed with a multi-tool. you will need a 3/4/5/6 and 8mm allen key, a phillips head and flat head screw driver. you can pick up a good multi tool for about £20 with a chain splitting tool.
on that subject, get experience of splitting and re-linking a chain, again its something you may need out on the trails and could save you a long walk home. chains break when shifting under pressure and no disrespect but newbies sometimes leave shifting on climbs too late, put the chain under pressure and the chain will snap.
use a proper bike lube, not wd40 or gt85. keep it clean and keep an eye on the cables. you wont need to upgrade anything on the bike for years. just enjoy it.
Honestly, buy some simple tools - you can do 90% of stuff with a multitool these days if you have to and ether have a look online or get a bike maintence tool.
The nature of the sport means bikes need maintance and doing it proactively will really cut down on the hassle factor.
And remember, no bike, ever in history has broken itself whilst sat in the garage, they always break when you're miles from home, it's raining, and getting dark... this is not the time to learn bike maintenance
The nature of the sport means bikes need maintance and doing it proactively will really cut down on the hassle factor.
And remember, no bike, ever in history has broken itself whilst sat in the garage, they always break when you're miles from home, it's raining, and getting dark... this is not the time to learn bike maintenance
Do nothing - wait until stuff breaks and replace with better components.
The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
I use it it twice a week.
Buy some spare hangers too and learn how to change them, bent my 2nd this month.
(cheap part my arse)
I use it it twice a week.
Buy some spare hangers too and learn how to change them, bent my 2nd this month.
(cheap part my arse)rhinochopig said:
Do nothing - wait until stuff breaks and replace with better components.
The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
Not a bad approach. The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
I have tried very hard to set up my bike so the minimum maintenance is required.
You can build in reliability but the nature of mountainbiking is that if you are practical and have some spanner spining experience you will be able to overcome trail breaks.
Hope hubs are pretty bomb proof. I have never seen or heard of hope brakes failing, it is also cheap to replace the pads and an easy job. Replace BB with ceramic bearings and only use decent quality cables for the Mechs. Shimano chainrings are expensive so replace crank with race face. (I was actually impressed with the lightness and rigidity of SLX cranks)
I run tubeless tyres and I have had 1 puncture in 3 years and the riding I do is very demanding but others in my group run tubeless and still get punctures (not as many as tubed). Tyre choice is key. 3 months on Nobby Nics was 3 months too much and they were thrown away (awful tyre) sod all grip in the bends, skittich and a sidewall that scuffed and tore. Racing Ralph are very nice. It is a personal choice.
Damage to the bike is very dependent on style and approach. Learn to use your legs as a "clutch" when changing gear. This stops cables, mechs and shifters form breaking and pick your lines well.
I prefer a better chain to a cheap one, they shift slicker and it all prevents breakage. I have used XTR clipless pedals without fault for 3 years and still going strong.
Overly complex full sus pivot systems are a pain to maintain. Single pivot with a good shock is the way forward (for me) as long as the geo is right (they can just feel nasty) but a good single pivot is low maintenance, great feel and reliable. A full set of bearings for my suspension is less than a tenner and it is 1 hour work to replace.
I wash and basic service the bike about once a month in the summer but far more in the winter. The build up of crud on mechs is the main reason and clean the shifter cables. Chain gets taken off and dunked in industrial degreaser then cleaned. This is for my piece of mind as I am sure within 30 seconds of pedaling there is enough grit on the chain to cause damage. Keep skewers / maxels clean and working properly. The amount of times we get to the bottom of a great decent and someone looks in shock at a QR skewer that has come undone.
DO NOT OVER LUBRICATE. Dont use crap lubricants. Crap lubes are grit magnets and will knacker your bike very quickly. Modern wax lubes for the summer but something with a bit more staying power for the winter.
You can maintain shocks and forks yourself. It is an expensive pain disasembling your bike to send off forks and shocks for a service lasting 2 weeks.
Gooby said:
rhinochopig said:
Do nothing - wait until stuff breaks and replace with better components.
The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
Not a bad approach. The one thing that is guaranteed to kill bike components is washing. Be very very careful around BB, Hubs, Headset, etc. Basically anywhere that has sliding or rotating parts as even a low pressure water jet can force water or grit in through seals.
My winter bike is never washed apart from a quick rinse of the chain and ran on the same hubs (cheap deore) for about 10 years. My full suspension which is always immaculate has had many many sets of bearings.
I have tried very hard to set up my bike so the minimum maintenance is required.
You can build in reliability but the nature of mountainbiking is that if you are practical and have some spanner spining experience you will be able to overcome trail breaks.
Hope hubs are pretty bomb proof. I have never seen or heard of hope brakes failing, it is also cheap to replace the pads and an easy job. Replace BB with ceramic bearings and only use decent quality cables for the Mechs. Shimano chainrings are expensive so replace crank with race face. (I was actually impressed with the lightness and rigidity of SLX cranks)
I run tubeless tyres and I have had 1 puncture in 3 years and the riding I do is very demanding but others in my group run tubeless and still get punctures (not as many as tubed). Tyre choice is key. 3 months on Nobby Nics was 3 months too much and they were thrown away (awful tyre) sod all grip in the bends, skittich and a sidewall that scuffed and tore. Racing Ralph are very nice. It is a personal choice.
Damage to the bike is very dependent on style and approach. Learn to use your legs as a "clutch" when changing gear. This stops cables, mechs and shifters form breaking and pick your lines well.
I prefer a better chain to a cheap one, they shift slicker and it all prevents breakage. I have used XTR clipless pedals without fault for 3 years and still going strong.
Overly complex full sus pivot systems are a pain to maintain. Single pivot with a good shock is the way forward (for me) as long as the geo is right (they can just feel nasty) but a good single pivot is low maintenance, great feel and reliable. A full set of bearings for my suspension is less than a tenner and it is 1 hour work to replace.
I wash and basic service the bike about once a month in the summer but far more in the winter. The build up of crud on mechs is the main reason and clean the shifter cables. Chain gets taken off and dunked in industrial degreaser then cleaned. This is for my piece of mind as I am sure within 30 seconds of pedaling there is enough grit on the chain to cause damage. Keep skewers / maxels clean and working properly. The amount of times we get to the bottom of a great decent and someone looks in shock at a QR skewer that has come undone.
DO NOT OVER LUBRICATE. Dont use crap lubricants. Crap lubes are grit magnets and will knacker your bike very quickly. Modern wax lubes for the summer but something with a bit more staying power for the winter.
You can maintain shocks and forks yourself. It is an expensive pain disasembling your bike to send off forks and shocks for a service lasting 2 weeks.
I would second XTR pedals - I have them on every bike I own and whilst not the lightest, they have never let me down.
My other tip would be to never buy your suspension bearings from a bike shop. Contact a specialist bearing seller and give them the number off the failed bearing. You'll get the same or better for a fraction of the cost of an OE part.
raf_gti said:
rhinochopig said:
Just to add, Decathlon do a great bike stand which costs beans compared to the likes of Park et al. A bike stand is very very handy - once you have one, you'll wonder how you ever coped before.
Link please sir? 
It's similar to this VV but with a tray, and bigger diam chrome steel tubes and a QR clamp.
A bit of TLC goes a long way.
Fit a chain with a powerlink, every few rides take it off, into a jam jar with degreaser, clean and relube/refit. Check it every so often with a tool like this and replace once it starts stretching or it'll knacker your cassette. Keep cables clean/lubed. Keep an eye on brake pad wear and either keep spares in your bag or replace if they're getting low and you have a big ride coming up. Keep fork seals clean to prevent rubbish getting inside them.
No point in changing stuff straight out of the box, but as things wear I usually pick stuff that isn't the lightest or shiniest, but that is built sturdily enough to last.
Fit a chain with a powerlink, every few rides take it off, into a jam jar with degreaser, clean and relube/refit. Check it every so often with a tool like this and replace once it starts stretching or it'll knacker your cassette. Keep cables clean/lubed. Keep an eye on brake pad wear and either keep spares in your bag or replace if they're getting low and you have a big ride coming up. Keep fork seals clean to prevent rubbish getting inside them.
No point in changing stuff straight out of the box, but as things wear I usually pick stuff that isn't the lightest or shiniest, but that is built sturdily enough to last.
Honestly i'm with the don't wash it too often brigade - I have a 2005 (maybe 6) Kona Hoss that I use pretty much every day, commuting, some trails etc - it gets washed, actually I think that should say, its been washed - twice.
Decent lube on the chain, two minutes adjusting the gears if they slide out a little, keep an eye on stuff - things will wear out / break, when they do - replace them with decent parts and carry on......apart from that leave it alone - too much fiddling is never a good idea.
Actually also - decent disk brakes, my ex used her bike a lot and I spent half my life adjusting damn V brakes and replacing pads, my road bike which is a bit of a garage queen also constant adjustment - the avid brakes on my Kona, new pads sometimes, 2 minute job if I go slow and thats that.
Decent lube on the chain, two minutes adjusting the gears if they slide out a little, keep an eye on stuff - things will wear out / break, when they do - replace them with decent parts and carry on......apart from that leave it alone - too much fiddling is never a good idea.
Actually also - decent disk brakes, my ex used her bike a lot and I spent half my life adjusting damn V brakes and replacing pads, my road bike which is a bit of a garage queen also constant adjustment - the avid brakes on my Kona, new pads sometimes, 2 minute job if I go slow and thats that.
I was bought a haynes bike manual and a multi tool set for my birthday and at first I thought maybe it was a bit gimmicky but having browsed through the book it has some very good easy to follow guides on setting brakes/gears and doing basic maintenance
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1844254216/ref=...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1844254216/ref=...
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