Changing an inner tube - why do I make it so difficult?
Discussion
Yes.
This is the opportunity to rip the piss.
However, I'm genuinely a little stumped. Had my first puncture yesterday, having read and learned when I got my bike the best way to approach felt more than happy to repair it.
Breaking the bead and levering the tyre off took me ages to get it "out". And then, getting it back in again once repaired took me bloody ages. Why in all the videos does it take them minutes, and yet it took me well - not minutes.
Is there a nack/trick? It's a road bike, in case that has an effect.
This is the opportunity to rip the piss.
However, I'm genuinely a little stumped. Had my first puncture yesterday, having read and learned when I got my bike the best way to approach felt more than happy to repair it.
Breaking the bead and levering the tyre off took me ages to get it "out". And then, getting it back in again once repaired took me bloody ages. Why in all the videos does it take them minutes, and yet it took me well - not minutes.
Is there a nack/trick? It's a road bike, in case that has an effect.
I feel your pain. I changed my first tyre and inner tube on sunday. I've realised that the only time I ever needed to change a tyre I was a little kid and my dad did it for me and had me watch so I'd know what to do next time. Didn't realise that next time would be about 20 years later. I also remember him making it look easy.
The current Bontrager hardcases are coming up small on my rims so I need at least two levers to get them off and one to get it on.
Oh it was a leaking valve rather than a puncture, before anyone thinks Hardcases aren't bullet proof.
In reality it takes no time to get the tires off and on. It's just the finding the culprit and road side patching if required that take the time, I carry at least one spare tube so I can generally patch at a later date.
Oh and metal levers!!!, I've broken more plastic ones than I care to remember, the metal ones might very slightly scratch the rim, but generally that occurs on the top of the rim or on the braking surface which can be sanded down if your that anal.
Edit, make sure you get all the air out and role the offending wheel with some weight on the sidewalls to help initially release the bead.
And put a little air back in the tube before you refit it helps it staying in place without twisting especially on 700c 18-23's
Oh it was a leaking valve rather than a puncture, before anyone thinks Hardcases aren't bullet proof.
In reality it takes no time to get the tires off and on. It's just the finding the culprit and road side patching if required that take the time, I carry at least one spare tube so I can generally patch at a later date.
Oh and metal levers!!!, I've broken more plastic ones than I care to remember, the metal ones might very slightly scratch the rim, but generally that occurs on the top of the rim or on the braking surface which can be sanded down if your that anal.
Edit, make sure you get all the air out and role the offending wheel with some weight on the sidewalls to help initially release the bead.
And put a little air back in the tube before you refit it helps it staying in place without twisting especially on 700c 18-23's
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 17th August 11:48
I had to change my first tube in years on Monday night. For someone else as I'm riding UST's. But, I was able to pop the tyre off with my fingers, partially inflated tube fell in ,and then tyre back on without levers. Pumped up and went the next 30km no bother. Some tyre/rim combos seem to have very tight matching dimension making changing a difficult job, whereas others just fall apart....
the blue park tools levers are pretty strong and their preglued pathes are ace.
folding tyres do make changing tubes easier but i dont rate the strength of their sidewalls compared to wire beads. thats convenience agasint reliability for you but at 90-100psi they are ok. its when you cant get pressure into them with a mini pumnp that they are a pain.
i always put the tyre on from the non drive side, dont know if its just me but it seems to be easier, perhaps something to do with tension? i also wet the rim with water to get the tyre back on when out in the open.
folding tyres do make changing tubes easier but i dont rate the strength of their sidewalls compared to wire beads. thats convenience agasint reliability for you but at 90-100psi they are ok. its when you cant get pressure into them with a mini pumnp that they are a pain.
i always put the tyre on from the non drive side, dont know if its just me but it seems to be easier, perhaps something to do with tension? i also wet the rim with water to get the tyre back on when out in the open.
okgo said:
Penis waving mode on :
I think I hold the record for our club for changing a flat, from getting off the bike to start the fix to it being pumped and ready to go 2.30 mins
Just practice (which you'll have to in this country)
Rob, fancy doing the driving on the London to Paris? or at least the London to Portsmouth leg I'm sure we could use a man with your skills I think I hold the record for our club for changing a flat, from getting off the bike to start the fix to it being pumped and ready to go 2.30 mins
Just practice (which you'll have to in this country)
Oh good - it seems I'm not a complete prat then
Practice it is. Which I have wonderfuly got because after repairing the puncture last night, I came down this morning to a flat tyre. Which is annoying. Either I pinched the innertube, or the repair didn't work, or there's a second puncture (I did check). Oh and I broke a plastic tyre lever.
Did I mention I popped a spoke last week?
Seriously bad luck at the moment!
Practice it is. Which I have wonderfuly got because after repairing the puncture last night, I came down this morning to a flat tyre. Which is annoying. Either I pinched the innertube, or the repair didn't work, or there's a second puncture (I did check). Oh and I broke a plastic tyre lever.
Did I mention I popped a spoke last week?
Seriously bad luck at the moment!
I find it is just the tyre and wheel combo, my road tyres on fulcrum 5's and Schwalbe ZX are a piece of piss to get on and off but my MTB with continental gatorskins and ditch witch rims are a pain most times but I have my technique finessed to do it easily now with only a bit of force required, they are even worse in the cold.
So you may want to look at changing the tyres in the extreme or you prepare yourself better, lezyne do some very thin levers to help get under the bead, but what I have found is increasing the strength in my thumbs and wrists made life easier, just don't ask me how
So you may want to look at changing the tyres in the extreme or you prepare yourself better, lezyne do some very thin levers to help get under the bead, but what I have found is increasing the strength in my thumbs and wrists made life easier, just don't ask me how
If you're a bit of a weed not that powerfully built then a VAR tyre lever might help due to the way it pulls the tyre back on to the rim as well as getting it off.
I bought one at the start of this year but due to sod's law, I haven't had any punctures since so haven't had the chance to use it. Typical eh?
I bought one at the start of this year but due to sod's law, I haven't had any punctures since so haven't had the chance to use it. Typical eh?
TonyHetherington said:
Yes.
This is the opportunity to rip the piss.
However, I'm genuinely a little stumped. Had my first puncture yesterday, having read and learned when I got my bike the best way to approach felt more than happy to repair it.
Breaking the bead and levering the tyre off took me ages to get it "out". And then, getting it back in again once repaired took me bloody ages. Why in all the videos does it take them minutes, and yet it took me well - not minutes.
Is there a nack/trick? It's a road bike, in case that has an effect.
I use one lever to break the bead and then drag it around the edge of the rim. Getting it back on put a little bit of air in the tube then starting at the valve pull it back onto the rim using fingers, to avoid pinching. The last bit sometimes can be a pain so use the lever on the reverse side to ease it back. I have found difficulty varies from brand to brand and that it is always easier the second or third time you have to do it.....if that’s of any consolation This is the opportunity to rip the piss.
However, I'm genuinely a little stumped. Had my first puncture yesterday, having read and learned when I got my bike the best way to approach felt more than happy to repair it.
Breaking the bead and levering the tyre off took me ages to get it "out". And then, getting it back in again once repaired took me bloody ages. Why in all the videos does it take them minutes, and yet it took me well - not minutes.
Is there a nack/trick? It's a road bike, in case that has an effect.
I never use a lever to get the tyre back on as it often results in another puncture. My current rim/tyre combo is a real basterd so when I get to the last 6-8 inches where it's really tight I use my palm to push the whole of the tyre as though I'm trying to get it over the entire rim, rather than just pushing the bead which can wreck your thumbs.
and make sure the opposite side to where you are fighting to get the tyre on, has the bead in the well of the rim, not up on the ledge - gives you at least 2mm to play with. Also push the valve well into the tyre so the reinforcement isn't in the way of the bead. It'll pop out to the proper position is soon as it's pressured a bit.
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