Discussion
Argh....
Having just forked out £235 for a new dura-ace chain and rear cassette just before my London to Paris ride, it is now slipping when I pedal.
Was great at first, have done a 15 mile leisurely ride and a 54 mile more intensive ride, after which it became un-rideable.
Chain just slips on all gears - falling out of large crank despite the deraillier being in the right position. Just doesn't seem to grip.
Any suggestions? Could it be chain tension? Maybe a link needs removing?
Having just forked out £235 for a new dura-ace chain and rear cassette just before my London to Paris ride, it is now slipping when I pedal.
Was great at first, have done a 15 mile leisurely ride and a 54 mile more intensive ride, after which it became un-rideable.
Chain just slips on all gears - falling out of large crank despite the deraillier being in the right position. Just doesn't seem to grip.
Any suggestions? Could it be chain tension? Maybe a link needs removing?
MrTickle said:
Argh....
Having just forked out £235 for a new dura-ace chain and rear cassette just before my London to Paris ride, it is now slipping when I pedal.
Was great at first, have done a 15 mile leisurely ride and a 54 mile more intensive ride, after which it became un-rideable.
Chain just slips on all gears - falling out of large crank despite the deraillier being in the right position. Just doesn't seem to grip.
Any suggestions? Could it be chain tension? Maybe a link needs removing?
Is the chain the correct length? There are specific instructions you should have followed with the chain as to how long it should be - the advice from Shimano is to wrap the chain around the large front ring and the large rear ring, pull tight and add a male and female link to allow for some slack. Did you do this?Having just forked out £235 for a new dura-ace chain and rear cassette just before my London to Paris ride, it is now slipping when I pedal.
Was great at first, have done a 15 mile leisurely ride and a 54 mile more intensive ride, after which it became un-rideable.
Chain just slips on all gears - falling out of large crank despite the deraillier being in the right position. Just doesn't seem to grip.
Any suggestions? Could it be chain tension? Maybe a link needs removing?
Where is the chain slipping? Is it slipping on the chainrings or cassette? If it's on the chainrings then that part is probably worn and will need replacing. This wears as per the rest of the drivechain.
TBH if you can afford to get a Dura Ace chain and cassette and are still having trouble you're better off dropping it into a decent bike shop to get them to fix it before you damage something expensive like twisting a link or bending a tooth on the cassette.
Thanks everybody!
Well it turns out that despite using a £50 Dura-Ace chain, I managed to twist one of the links within 70 miles of riding it.
Not very impressed with the quality. I have been told it is likely to be due to shifting gear while putting power through the chain, and being Di2 groupset you don't get any sensation of resistance through a cable - hence it just forces the chain on regardless of the torque being applied. But I am no top level cyclist, and you would think when those fit boys are climbing mountains at 20-25mph their mechanical sympathy can't be great - so I suspect it was a poor chain to begin with.
Anyway, I now have removed the offending link and have a second connector in it's place - so not ideal but it seems OK.
Well it turns out that despite using a £50 Dura-Ace chain, I managed to twist one of the links within 70 miles of riding it.
Not very impressed with the quality. I have been told it is likely to be due to shifting gear while putting power through the chain, and being Di2 groupset you don't get any sensation of resistance through a cable - hence it just forces the chain on regardless of the torque being applied. But I am no top level cyclist, and you would think when those fit boys are climbing mountains at 20-25mph their mechanical sympathy can't be great - so I suspect it was a poor chain to begin with.
Anyway, I now have removed the offending link and have a second connector in it's place - so not ideal but it seems OK.
MrTickle said:
Thanks everybody!
Well it turns out that despite using a £50 Dura-Ace chain, I managed to twist one of the links within 70 miles of riding it.
Not very impressed with the quality. I have been told it is likely to be due to shifting gear while putting power through the chain, and being Di2 groupset you don't get any sensation of resistance through a cable - hence it just forces the chain on regardless of the torque being applied. But I am no top level cyclist, and you would think when those fit boys are climbing mountains at 20-25mph their mechanical sympathy can't be great - so I suspect it was a poor chain to begin with.
Anyway, I now have removed the offending link and have a second connector in it's place - so not ideal but it seems OK.
Hmmmm. Not sure I buy that excuse. Your observation about the pros seems entirely reasonable. Well it turns out that despite using a £50 Dura-Ace chain, I managed to twist one of the links within 70 miles of riding it.
Not very impressed with the quality. I have been told it is likely to be due to shifting gear while putting power through the chain, and being Di2 groupset you don't get any sensation of resistance through a cable - hence it just forces the chain on regardless of the torque being applied. But I am no top level cyclist, and you would think when those fit boys are climbing mountains at 20-25mph their mechanical sympathy can't be great - so I suspect it was a poor chain to begin with.
Anyway, I now have removed the offending link and have a second connector in it's place - so not ideal but it seems OK.
Stiff links are normally caused by incorrect fitment unfortunately. It may not have even been apparent until you put power through the drivetrain.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tight-lin...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tight-lin...
itsnotarace said:
Stiff links are normally caused by incorrect fitment unfortunately. It may not have even been apparent until you put power through the drivetrain.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tight-lin...
Agree that stiff links are usually caused by incorrect fitment. However, in this case the offending link was not where the chain was joined, but in another location - hence the need for two joins. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tight-lin...
Also, aren't Dura ace joining pins those fancy snap in ones that are almost impossible to get a stiff link with?
itsnotarace said:
Its easier than you might think, when breaking the split pin it's quite possible to twist the chain so that another stiff link is created. I know this because I have done it 
The offending chain-link was about half way round from the original connector. So I now have 2 connectors approx. a half chain length apart. Rocksteadyeddie said:
Hmmmm. Not sure I buy that excuse. Your observation about the pros seems entirely reasonable.
Well the 'Pros' tend to be in the right gear before they need it rather than trying to grab one after realising their in the wrong gear. They also tend to ride at a higher cadenace so the forces are less (simply put).Can you not just replace the link with a 'powerlink' of sorts?
butcher.MrTickle said:
... I have been told it is likely to be due to shifting gear while putting power through the chain, and being Di2 groupset you don't get any sensation of resistance through a cable...
Ooooh nice. What's the Di2 groupset like to ride, would love one on my Cervelo one day 
Oh and KMC X10 SL Chain with quick link is fantastic.
jodypress said:
Ooooh nice. What's the Di2 groupset like to ride, would love one on my Cervelo one day
Oh and KMC X10 SL Chain with quick link is fantastic.
I have had the Di2 for about 18 months now, and I have to say it is fantastic. Very smooth, auto trims, fast and no noticeable weight penalty despite the battery etc. Oh and KMC X10 SL Chain with quick link is fantastic.
Battery lasts ages between charges and then only take an hour max to fully charge. Also a doddle to fine tune - you just use the buttons.
I can recommend it.
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