servicing and maintenance?
servicing and maintenance?
Author
Discussion

Adam BA

Original Poster:

266 posts

202 months

Tuesday 20th September 2011
quotequote all
So far I'm finding this pedal powered section very helpful. I've not even had a week on my bike yet and I'm already hooked. I've done a few comutes and loving it, even in the rain! Still need a bit more kit, some water proofs and some things for my bike but we are getting there.

Just wondering what steps to take in terms of maintenance? I'm using the bike for at least 30 miles a day so don't want it to let me down. How often should I be cleaning/lubng the chain? I've done it every 2 rides so far and it's a pain, probably not using the best stuff to do it with... are there any easy tips?

Also is it easy to service bikes yourself and what needs to be done? i've always serviced my motorbikes myself but there's no oil to drop on these things so just wondering what i'd actually need to check and how often? 150 miles a week commuting plus whatever i need to do on my days off which could be even more so I want to make sure I look after it, especially coming up to winter with wet, grimey roads.

Thanks!

Mr Will

13,719 posts

235 months

Tuesday 20th September 2011
quotequote all
Different people have vastly different opinions and routines, but mine is pretty relaxed. Through the winter I oil the chain about once a week and clean the bike thoroughly about once per month (and I do both of these less often in the summer).

Aside from that, the only thing it has needed in nearly 4000 miles is a set of brake pads.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Tuesday 20th September 2011
quotequote all
Once everything is tight it pretty much stays tight. A KMC chain link makes chain cleaning/lubing a doddle.

Keep an eye on Lidl, their £30 work stand makes setting things up much easier.

Jimbo.

4,215 posts

218 months

Tuesday 20th September 2011
quotequote all
Adam BA said:
So far I'm finding this pedal powered section very helpful. I've not even had a week on my bike yet and I'm already hooked. I've done a few comutes and loving it, even in the rain! Still need a bit more kit, some water proofs and some things for my bike but we are getting there.

Just wondering what steps to take in terms of maintenance? I'm using the bike for at least 30 miles a day so don't want it to let me down. How often should I be cleaning/lubng the chain? I've done it every 2 rides so far and it's a pain, probably not using the best stuff to do it with... are there any easy tips?

Also is it easy to service bikes yourself and what needs to be done? i've always serviced my motorbikes myself but there's no oil to drop on these things so just wondering what i'd actually need to check and how often? 150 miles a week commuting plus whatever i need to do on my days off which could be even more so I want to make sure I look after it, especially coming up to winter with wet, grimey roads.

Thanks!
This:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Mainten...

...or...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Mai...

...depending upon what you have (although a good 85% of it overlaps anyway) is one of the best investments you can make. Covers EVERYTHING, is easy to follow and well-written. Easily one of the best "How to..." books I've ever read.

Adam BA

Original Poster:

266 posts

202 months

Tuesday 20th September 2011
quotequote all
Brilliant, thanks guys, sounds like its just a case of point and ride, but I'l get a copy of one or both of those books too, looks a good investment.

anonymous-user

83 months

Wednesday 21st September 2011
quotequote all
assume its a road bike, some mudguards are always useful, the crud raceguards are functional and dont look too much like you are an audax entrant! not only do they protect you but they will also go some way to protect the moving parts at front of the bike, the fork steerer tube, the headset etc then its just a case of using a quality lube on the moving parts. I give the front and rear mech a strip and clean mid way through the winter too.

if its a mountain bike, fork and shock covers are invaluable in the wet.

Truckosaurus

13,252 posts

313 months

Wednesday 21st September 2011
quotequote all
Jimbo. said:
This:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Mainten...

...or...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Mai...

...depending upon what you have (although a good 85% of it overlaps anyway) is one of the best investments you can make. Covers EVERYTHING, is easy to follow and well-written. Easily one of the best "How to..." books I've ever read.
+1

I built a MTB from scratch with no previous experience using that book and YouTube "HowTo" videos.

Captain Answer

1,376 posts

216 months

Wednesday 21st September 2011
quotequote all
It's very much a personal thing but I usually:

Weekly - Oil Chain + cables
Monthly - Clean frame and rims plus oil everything else such as brakes, levers, casette, gear parts, pedals, check spoke tightness and trueness of wheels, inspect brake blocks
Every six months - Disassemble and inspect wheel hubs, if bearings look worn then replace else cleanout then regrease and refit.
Every 12 months - Service crank, replacing bearings if necessary (if your crank is sealed you will have to get tools to do this or get the LBS to do it), service the cassette and service the headset

Saddle bum

4,211 posts

248 months

Wednesday 21st September 2011
quotequote all
Top grade road bike:

Weekly: Wash bike. Clean chain. Polish frame. Check bolts for tightness.

Clean bike + clean clothes equals good image for the sport or pastime.

MTB: Jetwash.

walm

10,644 posts

231 months

Wednesday 21st September 2011
quotequote all
Everyone seems about the same as me.
However, I would add that I recommend one of those chain checker tools that tells you when to replace the chain.
It saves buying a new cassette!

I have found I can get through a chain every thousand miles (although I use mine for braking as well as acceleration getmecoat).

Something that has saved me both wallet and physical damage is just to check ANY sort of rattle IMMEDIATELY.
Any loose bolt has the potential to drop something into the spokes and cause an off.

Finally with that kind of mileage I would expect you to get though a fair number of tyres - I found switching my front and rears gave me more distance before a change as the rear wore much faster.

john_p

7,073 posts

279 months

Thursday 22nd September 2011
quotequote all
You can buy chain cleaners, but don't buy a cheap one off ebay or it'll fall apart instantly.

Alternatively get a new KMC chain with a powerlink and just take the chain off. Shake it in a jam jar with white spirit (or Finishline degreaser, or petrol) and then lube it up afterward.

I'd probably do it weekly if you're doing 30 miles a day and in all weathers. But, chains are cheap so don't stress too much.

Make sure it's dry when you put it back on - don't spill degreaser onto bearings (crank / hubs etc) as you can guess what'll happen to the grease if you do !

shalmaneser

6,424 posts

224 months

Thursday 22nd September 2011
quotequote all
Saddle bum said:
Top grade road bike:

Weekly: Wash bike. Clean chain. Polish frame. Check bolts for tightness.

Clean bike + clean clothes equals good image for the sport or pastime.

MTB: Jetwash.
Please stop.

Saddle bum

4,211 posts

248 months

Friday 23rd September 2011
quotequote all
shalmaneser said:
Saddle bum said:
Top grade road bike:

Weekly: Wash bike. Clean chain. Polish frame. Check bolts for tightness.

Clean bike + clean clothes equals good image for the sport or pastime.

MTB: Jetwash.
Please stop.
Yeh! I know............ That was a rhetorical comment. The state of some MTBs get into would lead to a good jetwashing. On my road bike, which does not get covered in poo, I use a big soft paint brush and top grade car shampoo, followed by a spray of fresh water from a hand sprayer. Dry off and WD40 the brakes and derailleurs then apply light oil. Replace chain. Step back, admire the bling. Finito.

I know I am anal about having a clean bike, (and clobber), but it's an investment as kit lasts longer and remains in top condition for longer.

Incidentally, having a tight fitting "O-ring" on the seat pin, sitting on the clamp, prevents all manner of nastiness getting down the seat tube and causing grief.