Sick of punctures on MTB. Suggest resistant tyres please
Discussion
I have Conti Gatorskin Hardshells on my city-bike and I've never had a puncture.
I have Conti MKs (2.2) on my MTB and have **at least** one puncture per 15 mile ride. It's getting depressing. Each time it's a thorn that I have to pick out of the tyre. The tyres are the folding type and feel as insubstantial as a party balloon. Conti does have "protect" versions of these tyres but it'd cost me ~£80 for a pair. If they were any good, I'd go with it - worthwhile to be able to get to the end of a ride without having to pull a wheel off and mend but in general I hear a lot of negativity about MKs.
Schwalbe has some puncture resistant tyres called "Marathon Plus MTB" too. They're a bit cheaper and their website claims they're about as good as puncture resistance gets.
Buuuuuut as always, I prefer the recommendations of real people... or failing that, PHers (please).
They're for a 120mm air forked HT, used mostly on XC but occasionally on a downhill trail (let's not get carried away here - I've see real "DH" on Youtube and I can't do that). Last weekend, where I picked up TWO punctures, I was only riding along the towpaths.
Many thanks, as usual.
I have Conti MKs (2.2) on my MTB and have **at least** one puncture per 15 mile ride. It's getting depressing. Each time it's a thorn that I have to pick out of the tyre. The tyres are the folding type and feel as insubstantial as a party balloon. Conti does have "protect" versions of these tyres but it'd cost me ~£80 for a pair. If they were any good, I'd go with it - worthwhile to be able to get to the end of a ride without having to pull a wheel off and mend but in general I hear a lot of negativity about MKs.
Schwalbe has some puncture resistant tyres called "Marathon Plus MTB" too. They're a bit cheaper and their website claims they're about as good as puncture resistance gets.
Buuuuuut as always, I prefer the recommendations of real people... or failing that, PHers (please).
They're for a 120mm air forked HT, used mostly on XC but occasionally on a downhill trail (let's not get carried away here - I've see real "DH" on Youtube and I can't do that). Last weekend, where I picked up TWO punctures, I was only riding along the towpaths.
Many thanks, as usual.
I can't go tubeless with the wheels I've got and I haven't bucked up the courage to buy a set of Chain Bros SAGE wheels yet.
What is Joes? A tyre, a tube or some slimey injectable stuff?
I'm so impressed with the Gatoskin Hardshells on the city-bike. I want something like that really on the MTB.
What is Joes? A tyre, a tube or some slimey injectable stuff?
I'm so impressed with the Gatoskin Hardshells on the city-bike. I want something like that really on the MTB.
I used to get TONNES of punctures when I ran the very same tyres.
I switched the Schwalbe Nobby Nics and hardly ever get a flat - maybe two in the last year (and I push the bike hard and do 2500ish miles a year).
I run fairly high pressures, even off road which helps. They are brilliant tyres - fast rolling but grippy. I run 1.8s as I'm a fairly whippety XC rider.
I switched the Schwalbe Nobby Nics and hardly ever get a flat - maybe two in the last year (and I push the bike hard and do 2500ish miles a year).
I run fairly high pressures, even off road which helps. They are brilliant tyres - fast rolling but grippy. I run 1.8s as I'm a fairly whippety XC rider.
Hi,
I had the same problem with the Mk's just rubbish, tried to run them for a year, constant pinch punctures, one rubbish ride involved five punctures in 10 miles. Running them at 50+psi seemed to help, but gave no grip whatsoever.
I ended up biting the bullet and replacing them with Maxis Highroller's and instantly a massive improvement, both grip and punctures, very big thumbs up for them.
Hopefully the no-tubes solution works for you, but the best advice from my point of view is bin them, awful tyres, sorry.
I had the same problem with the Mk's just rubbish, tried to run them for a year, constant pinch punctures, one rubbish ride involved five punctures in 10 miles. Running them at 50+psi seemed to help, but gave no grip whatsoever.
I ended up biting the bullet and replacing them with Maxis Highroller's and instantly a massive improvement, both grip and punctures, very big thumbs up for them.
Hopefully the no-tubes solution works for you, but the best advice from my point of view is bin them, awful tyres, sorry.
There is nothing better than going tubeless. Even if your wheels are not designed tubeless your LBS will be able to convert them to tubeless with a kit..
Failing that then some decent tyres. Mountain kings are pretty resistant. Nobby Niks are not good despite some claims and I have actually thrown them away after a month. Probably the worst tyre I have ever used.
If you still refuse to go tubeless then I have used a Kevlar weve / tape that goes between the inner tube and tyre. It is very good. On wide tyres you will need two strips per wheel. It is very light but isn't cheap. Financially and practically you are better off with going tubeless.
You can try "ghetto tubeless" - google it.
Slime tubes are rubbish. Heavy, unreliable and dull the responses of the bike badly.
Failing that then some decent tyres. Mountain kings are pretty resistant. Nobby Niks are not good despite some claims and I have actually thrown them away after a month. Probably the worst tyre I have ever used.
If you still refuse to go tubeless then I have used a Kevlar weve / tape that goes between the inner tube and tyre. It is very good. On wide tyres you will need two strips per wheel. It is very light but isn't cheap. Financially and practically you are better off with going tubeless.
You can try "ghetto tubeless" - google it.
Slime tubes are rubbish. Heavy, unreliable and dull the responses of the bike badly.
Tubeless.
Then fit Maxxis, Specialized or Scwalbe tyres.
Re punctures - you simply do not know you've had them.
I recently changed a tyre over and on turning it inside out - oh look at least 8 things that would have been punctures but simply sealed up no problem.
I know I'm pushing my luck but since going tubeless I haven't had ONE puncture that stopped me in nearly 4 years now. Many many thousands of miles of proper hard mountain biking.
Then fit Maxxis, Specialized or Scwalbe tyres.
Re punctures - you simply do not know you've had them.
I recently changed a tyre over and on turning it inside out - oh look at least 8 things that would have been punctures but simply sealed up no problem.
I know I'm pushing my luck but since going tubeless I haven't had ONE puncture that stopped me in nearly 4 years now. Many many thousands of miles of proper hard mountain biking.
Watchman said:
I have Conti Gatorskin Hardshells on my city-bike and I've never had a puncture.
I have Conti MKs (2.2) on my MTB and have **at least** one puncture per 15 mile ride. It's getting depressing. Each time it's a thorn that I have to pick out of the tyre. The tyres are the folding type and feel as insubstantial as a party balloon. Conti does have "protect" versions of these tyres but it'd cost me ~£80 for a pair. If they were any good, I'd go with it - worthwhile to be able to get to the end of a ride without having to pull a wheel off and mend but in general I hear a lot of negativity about MKs.
Schwalbe has some puncture resistant tyres called "Marathon Plus MTB" too. They're a bit cheaper and their website claims they're about as good as puncture resistance gets.
Buuuuuut as always, I prefer the recommendations of real people... or failing that, PHers (please).
They're for a 120mm air forked HT, used mostly on XC but occasionally on a downhill trail (let's not get carried away here - I've see real "DH" on Youtube and I can't do that). Last weekend, where I picked up TWO punctures, I was only riding along the towpaths.
Many thanks, as usual.
Just bought a Whyte 901 which had Conti MK's on it. They were ditched before first ride. I love Maxxis! Oh, and yes, go tubeless with the proper sealant and punctures will be a thing of the past.I have Conti MKs (2.2) on my MTB and have **at least** one puncture per 15 mile ride. It's getting depressing. Each time it's a thorn that I have to pick out of the tyre. The tyres are the folding type and feel as insubstantial as a party balloon. Conti does have "protect" versions of these tyres but it'd cost me ~£80 for a pair. If they were any good, I'd go with it - worthwhile to be able to get to the end of a ride without having to pull a wheel off and mend but in general I hear a lot of negativity about MKs.
Schwalbe has some puncture resistant tyres called "Marathon Plus MTB" too. They're a bit cheaper and their website claims they're about as good as puncture resistance gets.
Buuuuuut as always, I prefer the recommendations of real people... or failing that, PHers (please).
They're for a 120mm air forked HT, used mostly on XC but occasionally on a downhill trail (let's not get carried away here - I've see real "DH" on Youtube and I can't do that). Last weekend, where I picked up TWO punctures, I was only riding along the towpaths.
Many thanks, as usual.
jshell said:
Just bought a Whyte 901 which had Conti MK's on it. They were ditched before first ride. I love Maxxis! Oh, and yes, go tubeless with the proper sealant and punctures will be a thing of the past.
OK thanks. An overwhelming support of tubeless then.Can you tell me what you did to the Whyte wheels to make them compatible with tubeless please? I really haven't a clue.
I used to have a puncture every time I went out on my mtb, sometimes two.
Then I bought these:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
And now I can move on with my life! Put it this way, if they don't work I'LL give you your money back!
Then I bought these:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
And now I can move on with my life! Put it this way, if they don't work I'LL give you your money back!
Watchman said:
OK thanks. An overwhelming support of tubeless then.
Can you tell me what you did to the Whyte wheels to make them compatible with tubeless please? I really haven't a clue.
This is an example of what you'll need and explains the process;Can you tell me what you did to the Whyte wheels to make them compatible with tubeless please? I really haven't a clue.
http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Tubeless-Kits-C12.asp...
There are plenty of uk suppliers.
It can be done cheaper, but for an off the shelf solution, get a kit.
Really appreciate the advice. 
I have decided to try them all in some cost-based/ease of implementation order.
I have ordered some of those Panaracer "liners" and will see how I get on with them. At least it means I stand a chance of wearing the Mountain Kings a bit.
Once the MKs are dead, or if the liners don't work, I'll try the Schwalbe tyres.
And finally, I may go tubeless. It does seem a bit of a faff to me (the video is good though - thanks for that) and I'm still concerned that if I'm some distance from civilisation with a puncture that I won't be able to do anything about it, but most people seem to believe you reduce the likelihood of puncture to extremely low levels with tubeless tyres. And if I'm honest, my brother has tubeless tyres (on appropriate rims) and his aren't even sealed with that goop, yet they don't leak and he's never had a puncture.
Thanks again all.
I have decided to try them all in some cost-based/ease of implementation order.I have ordered some of those Panaracer "liners" and will see how I get on with them. At least it means I stand a chance of wearing the Mountain Kings a bit.
Once the MKs are dead, or if the liners don't work, I'll try the Schwalbe tyres.
And finally, I may go tubeless. It does seem a bit of a faff to me (the video is good though - thanks for that) and I'm still concerned that if I'm some distance from civilisation with a puncture that I won't be able to do anything about it, but most people seem to believe you reduce the likelihood of puncture to extremely low levels with tubeless tyres. And if I'm honest, my brother has tubeless tyres (on appropriate rims) and his aren't even sealed with that goop, yet they don't leak and he's never had a puncture.
Thanks again all.
Sorry to thread hike but seems the perfect thread.....I am looking at buying a Whyte 901 soon and notice they come with Continental MK tyres.
A the asking prices, would most dealers do a straight swap for different tyres? Or put in sealant? (Is that the green gunk stuff you put in? I've heard mixed reviews) Or make them tubeless etc.?
Basically, should I consider haggling in a better set of tyres or will sealant do the job? If a different set, what are the best (much of my cycling at the moment is muddy so want knobbly tyres (that can also be OK on road/trails).
A the asking prices, would most dealers do a straight swap for different tyres? Or put in sealant? (Is that the green gunk stuff you put in? I've heard mixed reviews) Or make them tubeless etc.?
Basically, should I consider haggling in a better set of tyres or will sealant do the job? If a different set, what are the best (much of my cycling at the moment is muddy so want knobbly tyres (that can also be OK on road/trails).
Beyond Rational said:
Watchman said:
OK thanks. An overwhelming support of tubeless then.
Can you tell me what you did to the Whyte wheels to make them compatible with tubeless please? I really haven't a clue.
This is an example of what you'll need and explains the process;Can you tell me what you did to the Whyte wheels to make them compatible with tubeless please? I really haven't a clue.
http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Tubeless-Kits-C12.asp...
There are plenty of uk suppliers.
It can be done cheaper, but for an off the shelf solution, get a kit.
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