Gears.........
Discussion
Okay, needing some advice. Im much less technically minded with bikes than cars, however my current bike is having gearing issues, which tbh are doing my head in.
So some back ground, the bike in question is a 2011 model Giant Revel 3. Far from the fanciest bit of kit in the world but nice and simple and hassle free.......or so I thought.
Now Ive had issues with the gearing since I bought the bike (and I think that initial poor setup is largely to blame).
- Issue 1 was as soon as I got the bike, the front set of gears would not change up from 2-3. The LBS put this down to cable stretch (impressive since the bike has done 10ft before the issue started). They adjusted the gears and sent me on my way.
- Issue 2 occurred 3 miles out on the next ride after issue 1. This was the rear set of gears not changing up and down correctly and were either not changing or jumping 2-3 gears at a time. So again it went back to the LBS and were adjusted again, and again put down to cable stretch.
- Issue 3 things were fine for around 10miles or so and the chain then started to rub on the outside edge of the front derailleur. By this time fed up, a mate had a go at adjusting things and noted that things werent quite set right (I think Im right in saying that there is a bit that should be set to around 2degrees, it wasnt). So adjusted things were pretty much ok for another 10miles or so.
-Issue 4 After issue 3 things were ok for a bit until the front derailleur started pushing the chain too far when changing from 2-3 and it started being pushed off the top of the gear (there was also some slight change rubbing again)......so armed with a youtube video on how to adjust gears I headed out with my trusty screw driver to adjust things. According to the video there are 2 screws ontop of the derailleur which limit how for out/in it can move. So made some adjustments and things were alot better (although not 100% as there was still a little chain rubbing when in the rear gears were in the lower setting 1-3, but not a great issue as they werent used a lot). So yesterday I headed out for a ride and things were pretty much spot on until around 20miles in the chain started to be pushed of the top gear again when changing up from 2-3. It didnt do it everytime, some times it would go into 3 for a few seconds and then drop back to 2, other times it would go too far and it took some playing around to keep it where it should be.
Apologies for the long post (and my lack of technical explanation (better at cars than bikes). Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it normal for this amount of adjustment to be required on such a regular basis?
So some back ground, the bike in question is a 2011 model Giant Revel 3. Far from the fanciest bit of kit in the world but nice and simple and hassle free.......or so I thought.
Now Ive had issues with the gearing since I bought the bike (and I think that initial poor setup is largely to blame).
- Issue 1 was as soon as I got the bike, the front set of gears would not change up from 2-3. The LBS put this down to cable stretch (impressive since the bike has done 10ft before the issue started). They adjusted the gears and sent me on my way.
- Issue 2 occurred 3 miles out on the next ride after issue 1. This was the rear set of gears not changing up and down correctly and were either not changing or jumping 2-3 gears at a time. So again it went back to the LBS and were adjusted again, and again put down to cable stretch.
- Issue 3 things were fine for around 10miles or so and the chain then started to rub on the outside edge of the front derailleur. By this time fed up, a mate had a go at adjusting things and noted that things werent quite set right (I think Im right in saying that there is a bit that should be set to around 2degrees, it wasnt). So adjusted things were pretty much ok for another 10miles or so.
-Issue 4 After issue 3 things were ok for a bit until the front derailleur started pushing the chain too far when changing from 2-3 and it started being pushed off the top of the gear (there was also some slight change rubbing again)......so armed with a youtube video on how to adjust gears I headed out with my trusty screw driver to adjust things. According to the video there are 2 screws ontop of the derailleur which limit how for out/in it can move. So made some adjustments and things were alot better (although not 100% as there was still a little chain rubbing when in the rear gears were in the lower setting 1-3, but not a great issue as they werent used a lot). So yesterday I headed out for a ride and things were pretty much spot on until around 20miles in the chain started to be pushed of the top gear again when changing up from 2-3. It didnt do it everytime, some times it would go into 3 for a few seconds and then drop back to 2, other times it would go too far and it took some playing around to keep it where it should be.
Apologies for the long post (and my lack of technical explanation (better at cars than bikes). Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it normal for this amount of adjustment to be required on such a regular basis?
The very first thing to do is buy this book. Its clear, concise and points out the obvious!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1405365498/ref=...
Your problems sound fairly easy to resolve, the two limiting screws on the mechs labelled “H” and “L” are pretty much the only things you need to adjust once the cable is secure but there is a In short, force the chain onto the biggest front chain ring and the smallest rear sprocket and adjust the limiting screw accordingly so when you are stood behind the bike, the mech jockey wheels and are lined up with the smallest sprocket. Then repeat the process by forcing the chain on the the smallest chain ring at the front and the biggest sprocket.
As others have said, you really shouldn’t be using the biggest chain ring and the biggest sprocket or the smallest chin ring and the smallest sprocket as in these two gears the rear mech is in the extreme positions of being under the highest or lowest tension.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1405365498/ref=...
Your problems sound fairly easy to resolve, the two limiting screws on the mechs labelled “H” and “L” are pretty much the only things you need to adjust once the cable is secure but there is a In short, force the chain onto the biggest front chain ring and the smallest rear sprocket and adjust the limiting screw accordingly so when you are stood behind the bike, the mech jockey wheels and are lined up with the smallest sprocket. Then repeat the process by forcing the chain on the the smallest chain ring at the front and the biggest sprocket.
As others have said, you really shouldn’t be using the biggest chain ring and the biggest sprocket or the smallest chin ring and the smallest sprocket as in these two gears the rear mech is in the extreme positions of being under the highest or lowest tension.
You need a bike stand ideally, if not some sort of device where you can raise the rear wheel and operate the pedals will do. Then just go right back to square one, set the cable tension and everything. There are some good clips on youtube, watch a few, it's so much easier to pick up from a video than text. I had issues with mine so did exactly this and haven't had any issues since, I've even set up other bikes! There's one screw that sets the height of the jockey wheels, make sure you adjust that one, seems to make a hell of a difference!
Thanks for the advice guys, Ill give it a go.
Gooby - there's never been any mention of a 1months service etc. does make sense though (I do get the impression as these guys deal in a lot of high end bikes they really arent to bothered about a cheap and cheerful), does make sense though.
Gooby - there's never been any mention of a 1months service etc. does make sense though (I do get the impression as these guys deal in a lot of high end bikes they really arent to bothered about a cheap and cheerful), does make sense though.
Dav - I have baught loads of bikes from my LBS that they dont mention the 1 month service to me, sometimes these things are obvious to the staff that they forget to mention it.
Take a look at park tools, they are a great help.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
The main points of adjustment are top and bottom of travel. Offset of jockey wheel (3rd adjuster on the mech) and cable tension. Cable tension is adjusted at the mech end of the cable and fine adjustment at the shifters.
No offence but cheaper cables are pretty elastic especially in inexperienced hands. If you change gear in a ham fisted way on cheap cables you will be forever adjusting the barstewards. You will stop adjusting them a week before the break at the point of the ride furthest from home.
Take a look at park tools, they are a great help.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
The main points of adjustment are top and bottom of travel. Offset of jockey wheel (3rd adjuster on the mech) and cable tension. Cable tension is adjusted at the mech end of the cable and fine adjustment at the shifters.
No offence but cheaper cables are pretty elastic especially in inexperienced hands. If you change gear in a ham fisted way on cheap cables you will be forever adjusting the barstewards. You will stop adjusting them a week before the break at the point of the ride furthest from home.
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