Help With Crank Removal
Help With Crank Removal
Author
Discussion

james239

Original Poster:

412 posts

194 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
I had to buy a crank puller to get the cranks off my old bike. All fine, still got the tool somewhere, but bloody typical my new bike has different cranks which seem to come off a different way!

However, I cannpt work out how they actually come off.

It's a Canyon Nerve AM and it's listed as having Shimano Deore FC-M 590-10 cranks, but this model isn't listed on the Shimano tech docs page. Anyone with the same bike or cranks ever taken them off or know what tool may be required?

SkinnyBoy

4,635 posts

287 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
Undo the two Allen bolts on the non driveside crank slide off the crank arm. Now slide out the driveside, the chainrings and axle are joined together so come out as one piece.

james239

Original Poster:

412 posts

194 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
That's what I thought, but if you look at the installation manual here

http://media.canyon.com/download/manuals/Manual_FC...

Point 5 shows a special tool tightening a cap - does that cap not have to come off to take the crank off?

SkinnyBoy

4,635 posts

287 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
Oh yeah I forgot about that. You need a BB wrench anyway if you want to remove the cups. Most of the wrenches come with the cap tool on the other end

I've got a park tool one like this.

http://m.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-...

rhinochopig

17,932 posts

227 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
Most of those caps are plastic anyway so should only be finger tight as it's the two allen bolts that hold the arms in place. You'll probably have to gently drift the arms off with a rubber mallet or hammer and soft bit of wood. They do tend to stick a little.

james239

Original Poster:

412 posts

194 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
Thanks.

I noticed the cap was only plastic and only up to 1.5NM tight so figured I could probably improvise and get it out but it's a little too tight and any other tools I use feel like they'll round it off on the inside so I'll get a tool ordered.

rhinochopig

17,932 posts

227 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
james239 said:
Thanks.

I noticed the cap was only plastic and only up to 1.5NM tight so figured I could probably improvise and get it out but it's a little too tight and any other tools I use feel like they'll round it off on the inside so I'll get a tool ordered.
When yo do refit be sure to copper slip / or grease the spline / crank arm interface. Stops them creaking and makes future removal easier.

Rocksteadyeddie

7,971 posts

256 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
james239 said:
Thanks.

I noticed the cap was only plastic and only up to 1.5NM tight so figured I could probably improvise and get it out but it's a little too tight and any other tools I use feel like they'll round it off on the inside so I'll get a tool ordered.
I use the handle end of a pair of pliers which is soft enough to do no damage yet robust enough to get a bit of torque on.

Samcat

505 posts

252 months

Monday 9th July 2012
quotequote all
Don't forget to lift up the little locking plate that fits in the gap in the Crank Arm (between the Allen bolts)

SkinnyBoy

4,635 posts

287 months

Monday 9th July 2012
quotequote all
I'm fitting a Hammerschmidt crank to my latest steed and it uses a 12 spline GXP on the non driveside and 8 slot ISIS on the driveside. Do i have an 8 slot... no FFS! another tool to the collection again!