From Drops To Flats
Discussion
I've currently got a Boardman road bike that just gets used as a commuter bike so I'm thinking about converting it from drop bars to flats.
The bike runs Sram Apex 2x10 with a compact chainset.
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
The bike runs Sram Apex 2x10 with a compact chainset.
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
Gizmoish said:
What's wrong with drops?
I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
I can't speak for the OP, but flat bars make it easier to look over your shoulder, therefore more suitable for commuting.I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
Mr Gear said:
Gizmoish said:
What's wrong with drops?
I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
I can't speak for the OP, but flat bars make it easier to look over your shoulder, therefore more suitable for commuting.I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
Still, each to their own of course.
Gizmoish said:
What's wrong with drops?
I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
It's not a problem using them, I just don't find them comfortable. As I pretty much never use them, I figured that I'd just go for a set of flat bars instead.I was a touch worried about getting used to them when I bought my road bike, but I don't find them a problem... and they're narrower than a flat bar.
neenaw said:
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
I don't know about Sram but with Shimano the pull ratio for the rear mech is the same but different for the front mech so if you fit MTB shifters you need an MTB front mech.neilski said:
neenaw said:
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
I don't know about Sram but with Shimano the pull ratio for the rear mech is the same but different for the front mech so if you fit MTB shifters you need an MTB front mech.On my modern bike I have to ride a lot on either drops or hoods, simply so I have easy quick access to the brakes. On the retro bike I also have the advantage of those old style brake extensions, so as I remember from before I can use the bar tops. That said it is nigh on 30 years since I rode the old one.
ewenm said:
Do those who don't like their drop bars spend much time riding on the hoods? I find that the most comfortable place to rest my hands and still have full control.
I used to ride the hoods when I had a bike with Microshift shifters, but now I'm using a bike with 105 shifters, the more natural position is on the drops. But if I wanted a pure commuter bike (which I don't), I would probably fit flat bars because sitting a bit more upright makes much more sense in traffic.
neenaw said:
I've currently got a Boardman road bike that just gets used as a commuter bike so I'm thinking about converting it from drop bars to flats.
The bike runs Sram Apex 2x10 with a compact chainset.
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
Remember that the geometry will go to sThe bike runs Sram Apex 2x10 with a compact chainset.
Can I just convert it using SRAM 2x10 mountain bike shifters or is the pull ratio different from road to mtb shifters?
t: road bikes are shorter in the top tube to accommodate the added "reach" or length that comes from the tops/hoods. Fit flat bars and you bike will get a lot shorter, with more weight further back...If the OP is changing nothing more than the shifters I see no need to need a new rear derailleur, if they are happy with the current gear ratios the rest is extra expense for no real reason. If the front is not right, it might need nothing more than a chainring shimming out to get the correct spacing, a task any competent bike mechanic should be capable of.
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