How much faster would I be...
Discussion
...if I swapped my MTB for a proper roadbike?
I'm looking at pics of everyone's bikes on here and really starting to want a proper roadbike, but can't justify a good few hundred quid minimum if it's not really going to do much for me one way or the other.
My MTB is around 10kg I reckon, fitted with those Schwalbe puncture-resistant slicks. I currently manage a shocking 15mph average over a 30 mile ride, all on tarmac. That's not as fast as I CAN go but it's certainly not flat out.
I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average because of the following (feel free to add to or correct my list):
1. weight of bike
2. riding position (currently handlebars are about level with my seat)
3. less rolling resistance
4. longer top gear/better ratios
5. I can pretend I'm on Le Tour and therefore my brain will subconsciously apply more effort!
Something else stopping me splashing the cash is that I ride specifically for fitness, so therefore surely I'm okay struggling on my MTB rather than trying to make things easier for myself?
I'm looking at pics of everyone's bikes on here and really starting to want a proper roadbike, but can't justify a good few hundred quid minimum if it's not really going to do much for me one way or the other.
My MTB is around 10kg I reckon, fitted with those Schwalbe puncture-resistant slicks. I currently manage a shocking 15mph average over a 30 mile ride, all on tarmac. That's not as fast as I CAN go but it's certainly not flat out.
I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average because of the following (feel free to add to or correct my list):
1. weight of bike
2. riding position (currently handlebars are about level with my seat)
3. less rolling resistance
4. longer top gear/better ratios
5. I can pretend I'm on Le Tour and therefore my brain will subconsciously apply more effort!
Something else stopping me splashing the cash is that I ride specifically for fitness, so therefore surely I'm okay struggling on my MTB rather than trying to make things easier for myself?
Much depends on your road bike budget.
If you were to buy this:
http://www.viking.org.uk/viking-vuelta-53cm-gents-... at a weight of 12.2kg, you would probably be better off upgrading the wheels/tyres on your MTB.
If, however, you bought this:
http://www.raleigh.co.uk/ProductType/ProductRange/... at a weight of 7.10kg, the difference would be as clear as night from day.
If you are going to buy a road bike, push the budget as far as you dare, buy the best frame you can, as components can be improved/upgraded as budget allows or they wear out. Consider second hand bikes too, as you'll get more for your money, and potentially, a previously owned bike may already have been upgraded over time.
ETA: it also depends on quite what your definition of 'a good few hundred quid' actually amounts to.
If you do commit to a roadie, you'll find yourself riding for just as long, but travelling further in that time. If you're worried about effort, just push yourself a little further/longer than you currently ride, and you'll suffer no loss of fitness.
If you were to buy this:
http://www.viking.org.uk/viking-vuelta-53cm-gents-... at a weight of 12.2kg, you would probably be better off upgrading the wheels/tyres on your MTB.
If, however, you bought this:
http://www.raleigh.co.uk/ProductType/ProductRange/... at a weight of 7.10kg, the difference would be as clear as night from day.
If you are going to buy a road bike, push the budget as far as you dare, buy the best frame you can, as components can be improved/upgraded as budget allows or they wear out. Consider second hand bikes too, as you'll get more for your money, and potentially, a previously owned bike may already have been upgraded over time.
ETA: it also depends on quite what your definition of 'a good few hundred quid' actually amounts to.
If you do commit to a roadie, you'll find yourself riding for just as long, but travelling further in that time. If you're worried about effort, just push yourself a little further/longer than you currently ride, and you'll suffer no loss of fitness.
Edited by yellowjack on Friday 21st September 23:08
Just to give you some ideas, my daily ride is a nice 1987 raleigh 531 frame with original bits inc shimano 105 components, with some new fulcrum wheels, vittoria rubino pro tyres, weights 9.7kg. I cycle 13miles to work couple of times a week in the summer in 47-50 mins with traffic/junctions so about 15/16mph (i can do sub 1hr for a 20mile cycle on it if there arent many junctions/lights)
My bike/car was AWOL so rather than get the bus to work i used my 12.5kg voodoo mtb with chunky tyres - there was a fair head wind most of the way but took me 1hr 15!!! For 13miles! And i was wrecked! Couldnt wait for it too end..... The MTB is most definitely for down the park with kids or cannock!
My bike/car was AWOL so rather than get the bus to work i used my 12.5kg voodoo mtb with chunky tyres - there was a fair head wind most of the way but took me 1hr 15!!! For 13miles! And i was wrecked! Couldnt wait for it too end..... The MTB is most definitely for down the park with kids or cannock!
Edited by cheeky_chops on Friday 21st September 23:41
I've been riding a hardtail for a couple of years and made the road bike plunge last week, I was on a strict budget and picked up a 2011 Trek 1.1 for £450, then blew my budget by buying clipless pedals and shoes and a splash of lycra, ended up about £700 once I'd bought decent bib shorts a saddle bag for a spare tube and levers etc.
I'm definitely slower on the Trek, but it's temporary (I hope). The super low 'granny ring' MTB gears for climbing in mud have made me lazy and even on this compact groupset the proper hills had me gasping the first couple of rides, but yesterday the same route was remarkably easier.
If I'd gone for a triple I'd be way faster than on the MTB, I just need to MTFU and get fit enough to deserve my bike
The other thing that'll keep you faster on the road bike is you'll never accept being overtaken by anything but a shaven legged pedal dancing pro
Edit to add I had a proper bike fit at my LBS and the position on the bike felt a bit different, feet were further forward, relative to the seat, than the MTB which feels a little strange especially when getting out of the saddle on a climb, all in all its a different experience.
I'm definitely slower on the Trek, but it's temporary (I hope). The super low 'granny ring' MTB gears for climbing in mud have made me lazy and even on this compact groupset the proper hills had me gasping the first couple of rides, but yesterday the same route was remarkably easier.
If I'd gone for a triple I'd be way faster than on the MTB, I just need to MTFU and get fit enough to deserve my bike
The other thing that'll keep you faster on the road bike is you'll never accept being overtaken by anything but a shaven legged pedal dancing pro
Edit to add I had a proper bike fit at my LBS and the position on the bike felt a bit different, feet were further forward, relative to the seat, than the MTB which feels a little strange especially when getting out of the saddle on a climb, all in all its a different experience.
Edited by Jayfish on Saturday 22 September 00:16
Centurion07 said:
...if I swapped my MTB for a proper roadbike?
I'm looking at pics of everyone's bikes on here and really starting to want a proper roadbike, but can't justify a good few hundred quid minimum if it's not really going to do much for me one way or the other.
My MTB is around 10kg I reckon, fitted with those Schwalbe puncture-resistant slicks. I currently manage a shocking 15mph average over a 30 mile ride, all on tarmac. That's not as fast as I CAN go but it's certainly not flat out.
I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average because of the following (feel free to add to or correct my list):
1. weight of bike
2. riding position (currently handlebars are about level with my seat)
3. less rolling resistance
4. longer top gear/better ratios
5. I can pretend I'm on Le Tour and therefore my brain will subconsciously apply more effort!
Something else stopping me splashing the cash is that I ride specifically for fitness, so therefore surely I'm okay struggling on my MTB rather than trying to make things easier for myself?
Right up until your last sentence I was going to ask - why do you want to go faster? Bragging rights? Decreased commute time? But then you mentioned fitness and the balance was restored, so it's better to have a draggy heavy bike as you'll work harder. For an increased workout, try riding with those velcro weights on your ankles for a couple of weeks, then try without and see if it feels like you are on a racer!I'm looking at pics of everyone's bikes on here and really starting to want a proper roadbike, but can't justify a good few hundred quid minimum if it's not really going to do much for me one way or the other.
My MTB is around 10kg I reckon, fitted with those Schwalbe puncture-resistant slicks. I currently manage a shocking 15mph average over a 30 mile ride, all on tarmac. That's not as fast as I CAN go but it's certainly not flat out.
I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average because of the following (feel free to add to or correct my list):
1. weight of bike
2. riding position (currently handlebars are about level with my seat)
3. less rolling resistance
4. longer top gear/better ratios
5. I can pretend I'm on Le Tour and therefore my brain will subconsciously apply more effort!
Something else stopping me splashing the cash is that I ride specifically for fitness, so therefore surely I'm okay struggling on my MTB rather than trying to make things easier for myself?
Justin Cyder said:
I wonder if it's the psych of getting trumped by the road bike guys every day? I commute on a Rockhopper & I'm overtaken constantly by the guys on road bikes. In my mind I rationalise it but it still burns a touch each time it happens. We're competitive animals.
Find comfort in the fact that your bike could definitely have their bikes in a fight. 
Centurion07 said:
I currently manage a shocking 15mph average over a 30 mile ride, all on tarmac.
I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average
Your guesstimates are about right however from personal experience it's unlikely to add those 2mph straight off the bat because it takes a little while to get used to a roadie. In fact my first road ride was only 0.2mph quicker!I'm guessing a proper roadbike, for me, would be worth, at best, a couple of mph on my average
btw I don't consider 15mph on a MTB as shocking.
I've just gone from this:
to
Yesterday was my first ride out and I did my usual 26 mile loop and my average speed has increased by almost 1.5 mph and I spent the first 4 miles taking my time getting used to the bike.
Previous Best (perfect conditions) - Boardman http://app.strava.com/rides/18699596
Yesterday - CAAD 10 http://app.strava.com/rides/22680933
I bought the boardman to get me fit and lose some fat which it has done but with hindsight I should have just bought the road bike in the first place. The ride comfort on the CAAD is much better than the boardman which came as a suprise.
P
to
Yesterday was my first ride out and I did my usual 26 mile loop and my average speed has increased by almost 1.5 mph and I spent the first 4 miles taking my time getting used to the bike.
Previous Best (perfect conditions) - Boardman http://app.strava.com/rides/18699596
Yesterday - CAAD 10 http://app.strava.com/rides/22680933
I bought the boardman to get me fit and lose some fat which it has done but with hindsight I should have just bought the road bike in the first place. The ride comfort on the CAAD is much better than the boardman which came as a suprise.
P
Bike weights are fairly meaningless in these situations, or at least a small gain.
Getting down on the drops in a good aero position is the biggest factor, along with thinner tyres and less inertia in the wheels. Takes time to be able to push the big gear for a couple of miles in a decent aero position. But that is where the speed is at...
Getting down on the drops in a good aero position is the biggest factor, along with thinner tyres and less inertia in the wheels. Takes time to be able to push the big gear for a couple of miles in a decent aero position. But that is where the speed is at...
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