What use are cadence and heart rate sensors?
Discussion
Hi
So the GPS on my new phone is crap. I'm considering a new stand alone GPS unit and have been looking at the Garmin Edge 200 and the 500.
The 200 does every my phone should, for £100
The 500 does all that plus a few more bits, including cadence and heart rate for nearly twice as much. SO, as a fat mountain biker, what use would I get from measuring my cadence and heart rate, assuming the heart rate measures high enough!
Ta
So the GPS on my new phone is crap. I'm considering a new stand alone GPS unit and have been looking at the Garmin Edge 200 and the 500.
The 200 does every my phone should, for £100
The 500 does all that plus a few more bits, including cadence and heart rate for nearly twice as much. SO, as a fat mountain biker, what use would I get from measuring my cadence and heart rate, assuming the heart rate measures high enough!
Ta
Heart rate is a good indication of how hard you pushing on, sometimes your perceived is way off from the actual. Use heart rate a lot on stationary trainers turbos and rollers.
Cadence meter is good for helping you keep a higher cadence, useful on the road/stationary trainer, not so much use off road, as it can depend on what you are currently traversing.
Don't forget as well the screen is different size. Got an Edge 500 and love it, the workout feature is superb on the rollers, as it gets like a game, you want to finish rather than the i've had enough that can creep in.
Then there is my new addiction of Strava, so many places to test yourself on with so many people you have never met.
Cadence meter is good for helping you keep a higher cadence, useful on the road/stationary trainer, not so much use off road, as it can depend on what you are currently traversing.
Don't forget as well the screen is different size. Got an Edge 500 and love it, the workout feature is superb on the rollers, as it gets like a game, you want to finish rather than the i've had enough that can creep in.
Then there is my new addiction of Strava, so many places to test yourself on with so many people you have never met.
Heart rate monitors are best used for threshold training, you'll need to work out your max heart rate (usually people just use 220 minus their age) so a 30 year old would use 190 as their max, then a series of thresholds for various intensity training, as an example, you would aim to stay in zone 1 (150-160 for example) for a warm up then the higher zones for riding or dipping in and out for interval training.
i know less about cadence meters but i remember reading that 90 rpm is apparently the optimum cadence so regardless of your gearing, its a useful way of ensuring you are pedalling efficently
I ahve a garmin 200, its fine for what i want although the little indicator that advises you if you are faster or slower than your current average is evil!
i know less about cadence meters but i remember reading that 90 rpm is apparently the optimum cadence so regardless of your gearing, its a useful way of ensuring you are pedalling efficently
I ahve a garmin 200, its fine for what i want although the little indicator that advises you if you are faster or slower than your current average is evil!
Thanks
I'm already using Strava, but having changed phones, my new one is pants! It won't trace an accurate route and won't pick up segments in the forest.
The 200 will do what I have been used to with my old phone, and probably more accurately, just not sure about the other monitors. That said, we are planning to ride the way of the roses later in the year so may be of use for that.
I'm already using Strava, but having changed phones, my new one is pants! It won't trace an accurate route and won't pick up segments in the forest.
The 200 will do what I have been used to with my old phone, and probably more accurately, just not sure about the other monitors. That said, we are planning to ride the way of the roses later in the year so may be of use for that.
Personally I dont think either cadence or HRM are much use to a recreational Mtber.
On a road bike you have a usable range between 80-100 rpm cadence so knowing cadence keeps you in an efficient zone. On a Mtb you are more likely to end up in constantly changing conditions with hills and corners on trails. I use cadence all the time on road.
I know my maximum usable heart rate and that if I stay there too long I will pay the price later but unless you are doing some long climbs or very high speeds you wont be at max on a Mtb.I would use a HRM racing but not in general riding.
I do like to see what elevation I have done and where I have been so I do love GPS.
On a road bike you have a usable range between 80-100 rpm cadence so knowing cadence keeps you in an efficient zone. On a Mtb you are more likely to end up in constantly changing conditions with hills and corners on trails. I use cadence all the time on road.
I know my maximum usable heart rate and that if I stay there too long I will pay the price later but unless you are doing some long climbs or very high speeds you wont be at max on a Mtb.I would use a HRM racing but not in general riding.
I do like to see what elevation I have done and where I have been so I do love GPS.
Yup, agree with you there. I think the trail will largely dictate cadence, it's certainly not regular like on the road. But then I am planning some road riding as I say.
I kinda think heart rate would be interesting, if only to see what happens going flat out down the scary bits of trail!
Might just get the 500 for now and add the sensors later... the 200 won't accept sensors at all. Or do I, argh!
I kinda think heart rate would be interesting, if only to see what happens going flat out down the scary bits of trail!
Might just get the 500 for now and add the sensors later... the 200 won't accept sensors at all. Or do I, argh!
Oscar the Grouch said:
Personally I dont think either cadence or HRM are much use to a recreational Mtber.
On a road bike you have a usable range between 80-100 rpm cadence so knowing cadence keeps you in an efficient zone. On a Mtb you are more likely to end up in constantly changing conditions with hills and corners on trails. I use cadence all the time on road.
I know my maximum usable heart rate and that if I stay there too long I will pay the price later but unless you are doing some long climbs or very high speeds you wont be at max on a Mtb.I would use a HRM racing but not in general riding.
I do like to see what elevation I have done and where I have been so I do love GPS.
I'd probably agree with that. HRMs are very useful in a structured training program or to monitor race-effort, not much use (except for stats-geekery) if riding for fun/recreation. Cadence is useful information for tapping out the road miles, but not so much use on proper mtb riding (canal towpaths and old railways don't count On a road bike you have a usable range between 80-100 rpm cadence so knowing cadence keeps you in an efficient zone. On a Mtb you are more likely to end up in constantly changing conditions with hills and corners on trails. I use cadence all the time on road.
I know my maximum usable heart rate and that if I stay there too long I will pay the price later but unless you are doing some long climbs or very high speeds you wont be at max on a Mtb.I would use a HRM racing but not in general riding.
I do like to see what elevation I have done and where I have been so I do love GPS.
).Update: I went for the 500 and got the cadence and HRM too. £170 from Amazon as opposed to nigh on 200 from CRC and the like.
First ride with it today, happy! It's tracked the route perfectly and there's a stack of info to digest via Garmin Connect, also very easy to add to Strava.
I tried the HRM, bit frustrating as it kept moving and dropping out... first time I've ever worn on though so will persist a little more though I can see it just being used on the turbo.
Didn't try the cadence sensor as I knew I'd be doing a little off roading where there's a fair amount of mud and a smattering of rocks... again can see that being a turbo thing.
Thanks for the input
First ride with it today, happy! It's tracked the route perfectly and there's a stack of info to digest via Garmin Connect, also very easy to add to Strava.
I tried the HRM, bit frustrating as it kept moving and dropping out... first time I've ever worn on though so will persist a little more though I can see it just being used on the turbo.
Didn't try the cadence sensor as I knew I'd be doing a little off roading where there's a fair amount of mud and a smattering of rocks... again can see that being a turbo thing.
Thanks for the input
BOBTEE said:
Update: I went for the 500 and got the cadence and HRM too. £170 from Amazon as opposed to nigh on 200 from CRC and the like.
First ride with it today, happy! It's tracked the route perfectly and there's a stack of info to digest via Garmin Connect, also very easy to add to Strava.
I tried the HRM, bit frustrating as it kept moving and dropping out... first time I've ever worn on though so will persist a little more though I can see it just being used on the turbo.
Didn't try the cadence sensor as I knew I'd be doing a little off roading where there's a fair amount of mud and a smattering of rocks... again can see that being a turbo thing.
Thanks for the input
The Cadence sensor mounts above the chainstay so shouldn't be too vulnerable (if that's your worry). It also increases the accuracy and rate of response of the speedometer, especially in cities or wooded areas where GPS signals are weaker.First ride with it today, happy! It's tracked the route perfectly and there's a stack of info to digest via Garmin Connect, also very easy to add to Strava.
I tried the HRM, bit frustrating as it kept moving and dropping out... first time I've ever worn on though so will persist a little more though I can see it just being used on the turbo.
Didn't try the cadence sensor as I knew I'd be doing a little off roading where there's a fair amount of mud and a smattering of rocks... again can see that being a turbo thing.
Thanks for the input
BOBTEE said:
I tried the HRM, bit frustrating as it kept moving and dropping out... first time I've ever worn on though so will persist a little more though I can see it just being used on the turbo.
Lick the pads before you put it on helps, sounds gross but works. Just tighten the elastic strap up a bit, if you get to the point you can't breathe it's too tight.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff