Recommend me some summer tyres
Discussion
I have a Specalialized TriCross Sport which I use for my commute (all road) each day.
I have some TriCross tyres on there which are slick(ish) in the middle but knobbly at the edges. This is fine for the winter months I have found, but I keep thinking there's a lot more performance to be had from the bike during the summer months when the weather is a bit better! However, I don't want to run a full slick as the thought of this combined with rain and the traffic on my commute worries me a bit.
The current size on my tyres is 700 x 32 - so I assume I will need the same size so I can use the same tubes.
I've seen Gatorskins mentioned on here, but they looked quite aggressive in terms of having very little tread pattern.
Does anybody have any recommendations that would work well for the summer months only (I will go back to other tyres in winter) and that preferably are resilient to punctures (!!)
Cheers,
Alex
I have some TriCross tyres on there which are slick(ish) in the middle but knobbly at the edges. This is fine for the winter months I have found, but I keep thinking there's a lot more performance to be had from the bike during the summer months when the weather is a bit better! However, I don't want to run a full slick as the thought of this combined with rain and the traffic on my commute worries me a bit.
The current size on my tyres is 700 x 32 - so I assume I will need the same size so I can use the same tubes.
I've seen Gatorskins mentioned on here, but they looked quite aggressive in terms of having very little tread pattern.
Does anybody have any recommendations that would work well for the summer months only (I will go back to other tyres in winter) and that preferably are resilient to punctures (!!)
Cheers,
Alex
you will be able to drop down to 28s without worrying about the rim width and tyre bulge.
Conti ultra sports are hard wearing and fairly cheap but grip in the wet is a bit sketchy, schwable marathons are highly regarded and the newish michelin pro4 grip looks nice but but i dont know what sizes they come in.
I like continetal tyres so there should be something between the GP400s (which i think only comes in 23/25) and the ultra sport that suits you. Might be the ultra race?
Conti ultra sports are hard wearing and fairly cheap but grip in the wet is a bit sketchy, schwable marathons are highly regarded and the newish michelin pro4 grip looks nice but but i dont know what sizes they come in.
I like continetal tyres so there should be something between the GP400s (which i think only comes in 23/25) and the ultra sport that suits you. Might be the ultra race?
Don't sweat the lack of tread, slicks will have more than enough grip.
I use Michelin Krylion Carbon tyres all year round for commuting; fast, grippy and pretty tough.
They've now been replaced with the Pro 4 Endurance tyre but you can probably still find the older, cheaper Krylions on eBay.
I also use Michelin Pro Race 3s. They're softer and less puncture resistant so wouldn't be great for commuting but are great, fast, grippy tyres for long sunny rides.
I use Michelin Krylion Carbon tyres all year round for commuting; fast, grippy and pretty tough.
They've now been replaced with the Pro 4 Endurance tyre but you can probably still find the older, cheaper Krylions on eBay.
I also use Michelin Pro Race 3s. They're softer and less puncture resistant so wouldn't be great for commuting but are great, fast, grippy tyres for long sunny rides.
Edited by option click on Tuesday 19th February 11:57
Even in the wet. The width, contact area and pressure of the tyre on the road will give plenty of grip.
Bike tyres don't aquaplane.
Tread on road tyres really doesn't make a difference - you'll be better off looking for grippier compounds.
The biggest things to look out for in the wet are slippery drain covers and painted lines. They'll cause any tyre to slip.
Bike tyres don't aquaplane.
Tread on road tyres really doesn't make a difference - you'll be better off looking for grippier compounds.
The biggest things to look out for in the wet are slippery drain covers and painted lines. They'll cause any tyre to slip.
Sheldon Brown said:
Hydroplaning
When an automobile is driven fast on wet roads, especially if it has worn-out tires, a cushion of water can build up under the tires, preventing the rubber from contacting the road. This is very scary and dangerous, because it leads to a total loss of traction.
Fortunately for cyclists, this cannot happen to a bicycle; they don't go fast enough, nor have a large enough contact patch, nor do the tires run at a low enough pressure to make hydroplaning possible.
Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk.
An ill-founded fear of hydroplaning often leads people to buy bicycle tires with inefficient tread patterns, when they would be better off with slicks.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#hydroplaningWhen an automobile is driven fast on wet roads, especially if it has worn-out tires, a cushion of water can build up under the tires, preventing the rubber from contacting the road. This is very scary and dangerous, because it leads to a total loss of traction.
Fortunately for cyclists, this cannot happen to a bicycle; they don't go fast enough, nor have a large enough contact patch, nor do the tires run at a low enough pressure to make hydroplaning possible.
Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk.
An ill-founded fear of hydroplaning often leads people to buy bicycle tires with inefficient tread patterns, when they would be better off with slicks.
Edited by option click on Tuesday 19th February 12:22
^^^ This.
Even at 32mph downhill into Henley-in-Arden with rain-soaked roads, my 700x28mm Gatorskins felt fine. The bloody speed was terrifying but not because of any fears for the lack of grip. I'm just not used to high speeds on a bike.
I have a few bikes now and they are all fine in the rain - all on different tyres. It's when you encounter a low-friction surface that you're in trouble, and this isn't solved by any particular tread pattern. Drain covers, muddy edges of pavements, wet leaves - all are hazzardous to slick 28mm Gatorskins, knobbly 2.2 inch Mountain Kings, "park" patterned 20x1.9 inch BMX tyres, and 700x33mm cyclocross tyres.
Overall, the slicks feel most predictable on road/paved surfaces because as you lean-over, you get consistent friction whereas the knobblies only really work on loose surfaces. No surprises there I guess.
Even at 32mph downhill into Henley-in-Arden with rain-soaked roads, my 700x28mm Gatorskins felt fine. The bloody speed was terrifying but not because of any fears for the lack of grip. I'm just not used to high speeds on a bike.
I have a few bikes now and they are all fine in the rain - all on different tyres. It's when you encounter a low-friction surface that you're in trouble, and this isn't solved by any particular tread pattern. Drain covers, muddy edges of pavements, wet leaves - all are hazzardous to slick 28mm Gatorskins, knobbly 2.2 inch Mountain Kings, "park" patterned 20x1.9 inch BMX tyres, and 700x33mm cyclocross tyres.
Overall, the slicks feel most predictable on road/paved surfaces because as you lean-over, you get consistent friction whereas the knobblies only really work on loose surfaces. No surprises there I guess.
option click said:
Even in the wet. The width, contact area and pressure of the tyre on the road will give plenty of grip.
Bike tyres don't aquaplane.
Tread on road tyres really doesn't make a difference - you'll be better off looking for grippier compounds.
The biggest things to look out for in the wet are slippery drain covers and painted lines. They'll cause any tyre to slip.
Thanks for this that is very helpful and not something I'd appreciated! I had been applying the car based scenario. I guess I might look at some Gatorskins!Bike tyres don't aquaplane.
Tread on road tyres really doesn't make a difference - you'll be better off looking for grippier compounds.
The biggest things to look out for in the wet are slippery drain covers and painted lines. They'll cause any tyre to slip.
Sheldon Brown said:
Hydroplaning
When an automobile is driven fast on wet roads, especially if it has worn-out tires, a cushion of water can build up under the tires, preventing the rubber from contacting the road. This is very scary and dangerous, because it leads to a total loss of traction.
Fortunately for cyclists, this cannot happen to a bicycle; they don't go fast enough, nor have a large enough contact patch, nor do the tires run at a low enough pressure to make hydroplaning possible.
Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk.
An ill-founded fear of hydroplaning often leads people to buy bicycle tires with inefficient tread patterns, when they would be better off with slicks.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#hydroplaningWhen an automobile is driven fast on wet roads, especially if it has worn-out tires, a cushion of water can build up under the tires, preventing the rubber from contacting the road. This is very scary and dangerous, because it leads to a total loss of traction.
Fortunately for cyclists, this cannot happen to a bicycle; they don't go fast enough, nor have a large enough contact patch, nor do the tires run at a low enough pressure to make hydroplaning possible.
Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk.
An ill-founded fear of hydroplaning often leads people to buy bicycle tires with inefficient tread patterns, when they would be better off with slicks.
Edited by option click on Tuesday 19th February 12:22
Watchman said:
Overall, the slicks feel most predictable on road/paved surfaces because as you lean-over, you get consistent friction whereas the knobblies only really work on loose surfaces. No surprises there I guess.
Again, this is a very good point as it is something I often struggle on with the CX tyres when you get a lean on!! It makes the bike handling a tad "lumpy"!!!Cheers for the thoughts!!
miln0039 said:
Again, this is a very good point as it is something I often struggle on with the CX tyres when you get a lean on!! It makes the bike handling a tad "lumpy"!!!
Cheers for the thoughts!!
Yes, even on dry paving you can feel the knobblies bending as you lean over, which also upsets the overall feel.Cheers for the thoughts!!
Right, I am convinced I want to make the change! I am now looking at tyre sizes which will fit my rims...
I have Alex Rims S480 32h's right now. I currently have 32mm diametec tyres and am thinking about going down to either a 25 or 28. Using the following links:
http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/detail/12... (my bike)
http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/detail/12... (same rims 25m tyres)
Can I safely assume 25s will fit the rims and are on okay route to take? Or will the tubes I have at the moment not work with the narrower tyres?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
I was thinking about going with the following tyres following a chat I had with a guy at work.
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/bontrager-race-lite...
Cheers again
Alex
I have Alex Rims S480 32h's right now. I currently have 32mm diametec tyres and am thinking about going down to either a 25 or 28. Using the following links:
http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/detail/12... (my bike)
http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/detail/12... (same rims 25m tyres)
Can I safely assume 25s will fit the rims and are on okay route to take? Or will the tubes I have at the moment not work with the narrower tyres?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
I was thinking about going with the following tyres following a chat I had with a guy at work.
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/bontrager-race-lite...
Cheers again
Alex
ks - all this has made me do is check the tube I was sold when I bought the bike. Doesn't even have the correct sort of valve on it!!! WTF!! If I get a puncture on way home from work now I will cry....!!the tubes should be fine though a fresh pair will be less than £10 from the usual suspects though and a good investment.
Tyre wise, if you are content 25s wil lfit, go for something like the Conti GP4000s.
Ok, they are a fair bit more money but those Bontragers weigh 425gs compared to the GP400s which weigh 230gs and dont worry about the puncture protection sidewalls and all that guff, I probably puncture once every 500 miles or so on GP4000s and thats usually a big thorn or a piece of glass that will get through most things.
Seriously, those Bontragers will be a horrid hard compound, offer no feedback, they are too heavy and are unliekly to offer any improvement on your current tyres.
Most pumps have a reversable valve head so you should be ok but if the tube is a schrader (car) valve type, its likely to be a 26" tube not 700c so the valve is the least of your worries!....
Tyre wise, if you are content 25s wil lfit, go for something like the Conti GP4000s.
Ok, they are a fair bit more money but those Bontragers weigh 425gs compared to the GP400s which weigh 230gs and dont worry about the puncture protection sidewalls and all that guff, I probably puncture once every 500 miles or so on GP4000s and thats usually a big thorn or a piece of glass that will get through most things.
Seriously, those Bontragers will be a horrid hard compound, offer no feedback, they are too heavy and are unliekly to offer any improvement on your current tyres.
Most pumps have a reversable valve head so you should be ok but if the tube is a schrader (car) valve type, its likely to be a 26" tube not 700c so the valve is the least of your worries!....
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 20th February 16:21
pablo said:
the tubes should be fine though a fresh pair will be less than £10 from the usual suspects though and a good investment.
Tyre wise, if you are content 25s wil lfit, go for something like the Conti GP4000s.
Ok, they are a fair bit more money but those Bontragers weigh 425gs compared to the GP400s which weigh 230gs and dont worry about the puncture protection sidewalls and all that guff, I probably puncture once every 500 miles or so on GP4000s and thats usually a big thorn or a piece of glass that will get through most things.
Seriously, those Bontragers will be a horrid hard compound, offer no feedback, they are too heavy and are unliekly to offer any improvement on your current tyres.
Most pumps have a reversable valve head so you should be ok.
Hmmm....okay - I hadn't thought about the weight thing....I'm "powerfully built" anyway, so there's already 17 stone on there - will another 0.5kg make much difference?Tyre wise, if you are content 25s wil lfit, go for something like the Conti GP4000s.
Ok, they are a fair bit more money but those Bontragers weigh 425gs compared to the GP400s which weigh 230gs and dont worry about the puncture protection sidewalls and all that guff, I probably puncture once every 500 miles or so on GP4000s and thats usually a big thorn or a piece of glass that will get through most things.
Seriously, those Bontragers will be a horrid hard compound, offer no feedback, they are too heavy and are unliekly to offer any improvement on your current tyres.
Most pumps have a reversable valve head so you should be ok.
Current tubes are 700x 28 / 38 - will they really fit a 25mm width tyre??? I was just looking at buying 4 cheapo Raleigh tubes - only £15 for the four...I see them as consumables anyhow!!!
ETA - just looked at my existing tyres and they are 450g each...so see your point!!
Edited by miln0039 on Wednesday 20th February 16:28
miln0039 said:
Hmmm....okay - I hadn't thought about the weight thing....I'm "powerfully built" anyway, so there's already 17 stone on there - will another 0.5kg make much difference?
Current tubes are 700x 28 / 38 - will they really fit a 25mm width tyre??? I was just looking at buying 4 cheapo Raleigh tubes - only £15 for the four...I see them as consumables anyhow!!!
ETA - just looked at my existing tyres and they are 450g each...so see your point!!
wiggle were selling tubes at £4 per pair or 6 for £9Current tubes are 700x 28 / 38 - will they really fit a 25mm width tyre??? I was just looking at buying 4 cheapo Raleigh tubes - only £15 for the four...I see them as consumables anyhow!!!
ETA - just looked at my existing tyres and they are 450g each...so see your point!!
Edited by miln0039 on Wednesday 20th February 16:28
I was very nervous of the lack of grip when I got a road bike (2010 Allez Elite) a couple of years ago; it was only really for the odd triathlon but I needed to get the hang of it!
Wet conditions terrified me but ride a bit and you learn that even slicks grip well on decent tarmac. Just lookout for any metalwork, painted lines and drain covers; some appear to be designed specifically to catch road bike wheels!
Also watch out for loose gravel on back roads; easy to slip on.
Once the confidence rises, you'll be hammering everywhere at full tilt!
Wet conditions terrified me but ride a bit and you learn that even slicks grip well on decent tarmac. Just lookout for any metalwork, painted lines and drain covers; some appear to be designed specifically to catch road bike wheels!
Also watch out for loose gravel on back roads; easy to slip on.
Once the confidence rises, you'll be hammering everywhere at full tilt!
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