Clipless pedals for a commuter?
Discussion
Despite the fact I'm still very new to this whole cycling thing, I'm already thinking about how I might improve my daily commute. One of the the things that I've seen mentioned a lot are clipless pedals (or just being attached to the pedal in general really). I'm currently wearing running shoes on the standard flat pedals on my Hybrid (Giant Seek 2), and to be honest I'm not find it terribly easy to adopt the "spinning" action that I'm told is what I should be aiming for. I find that I naturally tend towards positioning my foot so the arch over the centre of the pedal, and I have to consciously place it back so I'm pushing down with the ball. I'm sure I'd get used to that though.
My commute is short (7-8kms each way), but it includes a mix of flat roads and a big steep hill. Takes me around 18 minutes to do the inbound leg, and around 36 for the (uphill) trip home. (However, I am getting faster, and I think 15/30 mins is achievable). Only about 5 intersections to deal with each way, and I never do the trip in work clothes/shoes.
Are the benefits of clipless pedals worth the effort for a short, but hilly, commute like this? Or are they really intended for longer, flatter, faster trips?
My commute is short (7-8kms each way), but it includes a mix of flat roads and a big steep hill. Takes me around 18 minutes to do the inbound leg, and around 36 for the (uphill) trip home. (However, I am getting faster, and I think 15/30 mins is achievable). Only about 5 intersections to deal with each way, and I never do the trip in work clothes/shoes.
Are the benefits of clipless pedals worth the effort for a short, but hilly, commute like this? Or are they really intended for longer, flatter, faster trips?
Aside from working on the engine obviously, I found them to be the single biggest difference to my cycling.
They take a little getting used to, but the difference is absolutely night and day over any section of road. You will be grateful for them when you inevitably get into longer rides. Not cheap granted, but the best investment I have ever made in my cycling.
They take a little getting used to, but the difference is absolutely night and day over any section of road. You will be grateful for them when you inevitably get into longer rides. Not cheap granted, but the best investment I have ever made in my cycling.
Aside from working on the engine obviously, I found them to be the single biggest difference to my cycling.
They take a little getting used to, but the difference is absolutely night and day over any section of road. You will be grateful for them when you inevitably get into longer rides. Not cheap granted, but the best investment I have ever made in my cycling.
They take a little getting used to, but the difference is absolutely night and day over any section of road. You will be grateful for them when you inevitably get into longer rides. Not cheap granted, but the best investment I have ever made in my cycling.
Do it. They'll also help you climb that hill!
I have Shimano A530 on my Rapid which are flat on one side, SPD on t'other. So I can jump on in trainers if out with the kids, or wear SPD mtb shoes which are fine to walk around for a bit off the bike.
You'll want to get into the habit of unclipping before every junction, you should only fall over once
ETA on the subject of worthwhile upgrades, get some Ergon GP2 grips too
I have Shimano A530 on my Rapid which are flat on one side, SPD on t'other. So I can jump on in trainers if out with the kids, or wear SPD mtb shoes which are fine to walk around for a bit off the bike.
You'll want to get into the habit of unclipping before every junction, you should only fall over once

ETA on the subject of worthwhile upgrades, get some Ergon GP2 grips too

Edited by richardxjr on Thursday 28th March 10:17
Absolutely go clipless - it's far more efficient than flat pedals. But stick to a double-sided pedal design (SPD or Speedplay) where you don't have to look down or adjust the pedal position to clip back in. If you can, unwind the clip spring tension at least to start with, so that unclipping is really easy. When commuting it's much better in my view to have the occasional unintended clip-out in a hard gearshift (you "pop" out of the pedal on the upstroke when the chain stalls) than fail to unclip in an unanticipated stop.
I started out with some Shimano PD-M520's with the springs wound out and MTB shoes (easy to walk in). These days I'm mostly using Speedplay Zero and road shoes, but I wouldn't start there as the springs on Zeros are fierce and the cleats are harder to walk with. You could try Speedplay Light Action if you have knee problems, as they have 15 degrees of float (unadjustable), no centering action, and an easy clip-out tension (unadjustable).
I have 50-odd sets of lights on my commute and on a bad day I might unclip 10 times each way. It becomes second nature very quickly.
I started out with some Shimano PD-M520's with the springs wound out and MTB shoes (easy to walk in). These days I'm mostly using Speedplay Zero and road shoes, but I wouldn't start there as the springs on Zeros are fierce and the cleats are harder to walk with. You could try Speedplay Light Action if you have knee problems, as they have 15 degrees of float (unadjustable), no centering action, and an easy clip-out tension (unadjustable).
I have 50-odd sets of lights on my commute and on a bad day I might unclip 10 times each way. It becomes second nature very quickly.
I've gone old school on my converted MTB\Commuter ....

Cost me £15 with postage and seem to be on Amazon for even less --> http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004XVQ3I0/ref=asc_df_B...

Cost me £15 with postage and seem to be on Amazon for even less --> http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004XVQ3I0/ref=asc_df_B...
TonyHetherington said:
^^^ to me they always seem like they'd be more difficult to get out of than clipless
I found that if you had them as tight as you'd need to replicate clipless then they were definitely harder to get out of. When I first started mountainbiking 20 years ago I used toe-clips. I upgraded to clipless when I could afford it.Makes sense. Then equally, to get back in, you have to undo and tighten I imagine?
Probably a pain on the commute. Although commuting I wear through cleats quite quickly - my logic being that when I'm on a sunday morning 60 mile ride I probably unclip 5 times and walk a total of 20metres. On each 6 mile commute I unclip twice as much and walk twice as far (storing bike at work, walking into building etc).
Probably a pain on the commute. Although commuting I wear through cleats quite quickly - my logic being that when I'm on a sunday morning 60 mile ride I probably unclip 5 times and walk a total of 20metres. On each 6 mile commute I unclip twice as much and walk twice as far (storing bike at work, walking into building etc).
ewenm said:
TonyHetherington said:
^^^ to me they always seem like they'd be more difficult to get out of than clipless
I found that if you had them as tight as you'd need to replicate clipless then they were definitely harder to get out of. When I first started mountainbiking 20 years ago I used toe-clips. I upgraded to clipless when I could afford it.Mark-C said:
I do get that they are probably not as good as clips but I spend a fortune on running shoes and could do with out doing the same again on cycling shoes!
I know what you mean on the running shoes - I have about 5 pairs of various types on the go. Contrastingly, I've just replaced my first pair of cycling shoes after 10+ years of use. The new pair cost me £70. As I don't walk in them much they last ages! The much stiffer soles compared to trainers are a big difference on the bike.Mark-C said:
I've gone old school on my converted MTB\Commuter ....

Cost me £15 with postage and seem to be on Amazon for even less --> http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004XVQ3I0/ref=asc_df_B...
I use these on my commute. I am lucky though in that as I have size 13 feet I wear some narrow old shoes and push them into the plastic at the front and this holds tight enough. The tightening straps are on their loosest settings. No problems getting in or out, even when need to stop quickly!
Cost me £15 with postage and seem to be on Amazon for even less --> http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004XVQ3I0/ref=asc_df_B...
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