Carbon Wheels (road)
Discussion
t braking with carbon braking surfaces.I bought some about 6 months ago. I've done maybe 1k miles on them now. They're Planet X 50mm ones so are essentially the same as the Chinese ones you can get on ebay.
They're very good. And saved me about 1kg from the old wheels and tyres that came on the bike (Shimano RS10/Luganos). It accelerates faster for it. The whole bike feels faster but that largely in my head i imagine.
Braking is very good despite what has already been said. True it's not as good as an alloy surface but with Reynolds blue pads i can still stand the bike on it's end if i wanted too. In the wet it's not so great though. But once it starts getting wet i think i'll be changing back to the old rims anyway. The pads don't last as long. And i'm more conscious (probably unnecessarily so) of heavy prolonged breaking due to rim temperature.
My rims are tubular (which is why i saved so much weight) and after 1000 miles that i've done, they tyres were second-hand, i've finally had a puncture. I used the Tufo sealant and a pump to fix it and was back on the road again within 10 mins. It's actually a really good way to fix a puncture. The tyre is still holding pressure too so i've still not changed it.
I cant see a reason not to get some. Especially as the PX ones are now even cheaper.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPXPC5050/pla...
They also make your bike look really cool too.
(Yes, the fish have been cleaned out
)
They're very good. And saved me about 1kg from the old wheels and tyres that came on the bike (Shimano RS10/Luganos). It accelerates faster for it. The whole bike feels faster but that largely in my head i imagine.
Braking is very good despite what has already been said. True it's not as good as an alloy surface but with Reynolds blue pads i can still stand the bike on it's end if i wanted too. In the wet it's not so great though. But once it starts getting wet i think i'll be changing back to the old rims anyway. The pads don't last as long. And i'm more conscious (probably unnecessarily so) of heavy prolonged breaking due to rim temperature.
My rims are tubular (which is why i saved so much weight) and after 1000 miles that i've done, they tyres were second-hand, i've finally had a puncture. I used the Tufo sealant and a pump to fix it and was back on the road again within 10 mins. It's actually a really good way to fix a puncture. The tyre is still holding pressure too so i've still not changed it.
I cant see a reason not to get some. Especially as the PX ones are now even cheaper.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPXPC5050/pla...
They also make your bike look really cool too.
(Yes, the fish have been cleaned out
)I got some Chinese carbon tubs last year. Have you considered the type of wheel you want?
Deep section? Tubular, Carbon clincher or Carbon clincher with Aluminium brake surface (Mavic cosmic, Planet X clincher etc)
I opted for the tubs because they were light(ish) and cheap, I find braking to be better in the dry than I previously had with my Alu rims but worse in the wet, perhaps a bit grabby but I only use the front brake and that on/off nature suits me.
Do you have a budget in mind? It would be relevant if you wanted full carbon clinchers.
Deep section? Tubular, Carbon clincher or Carbon clincher with Aluminium brake surface (Mavic cosmic, Planet X clincher etc)
I opted for the tubs because they were light(ish) and cheap, I find braking to be better in the dry than I previously had with my Alu rims but worse in the wet, perhaps a bit grabby but I only use the front brake and that on/off nature suits me.
Do you have a budget in mind? It would be relevant if you wanted full carbon clinchers.
It really depends what you want them for.....long days in the saddle, short time trials.....
If you want better climbing then I would be looking for shallow section lightweight wheels, due to low rim weight they are easier to spin up and have a lower rotational weight.
If you want to go fast on the flat or downhill then deep sections are probably more in line with what you want, but will be heavier so if you are going up hills will be harder work, also if you are likely to be stop/start during your ride then they will take more effort to spin up.
Personally on a budget of up to £600-ish I would not bother with carbon and would look at decent alu's - Fulcrum 1's, C24 Dura Ace or maybe a set of Mavic Ksyrium Elite S.
As for tubs v clinchers, unless you are racing then I would not use tubs on the road, it is much easier to carry a spare tube and change it by the side of the road than carry a spare tyre and have to glue it at the side of the road, 'specially if it is raining or freezing cold....
Probably does not help, but if I were spending £600 on a set of wheels it's what I would do.
If you want better climbing then I would be looking for shallow section lightweight wheels, due to low rim weight they are easier to spin up and have a lower rotational weight.
If you want to go fast on the flat or downhill then deep sections are probably more in line with what you want, but will be heavier so if you are going up hills will be harder work, also if you are likely to be stop/start during your ride then they will take more effort to spin up.
Personally on a budget of up to £600-ish I would not bother with carbon and would look at decent alu's - Fulcrum 1's, C24 Dura Ace or maybe a set of Mavic Ksyrium Elite S.
As for tubs v clinchers, unless you are racing then I would not use tubs on the road, it is much easier to carry a spare tube and change it by the side of the road than carry a spare tyre and have to glue it at the side of the road, 'specially if it is raining or freezing cold....
Probably does not help, but if I were spending £600 on a set of wheels it's what I would do.
Aero wheels are all well and good if you can maintain the sport of speed where the deep profile offers a benefit over shallow rims... there are some good "in-between" options like the IRD cadence rim which I think is about 40mm that you could get built up? I think Vision do a 42mm wheelset around that sort of price too.
If you opt for shallow rims though, Campag Neutrons are under £500 at wiggle and way more bling than any carbon rim!
If you opt for shallow rims though, Campag Neutrons are under £500 at wiggle and way more bling than any carbon rim!
Weight wise the PX tubulars are as light (lighter if you add tyres and tubes) than anything suggested. So climbing wont be effected in anyway.
The only real downside is the puncture issue when out and about but this stuff honestly works very well.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WSTUSE/tufo_ex...
I punctured my rear 2 weeks ago and fixed it in 10 mins using this and i'm still riding on the tub now. Although i do plan to change it as it's worn out.
Do you suffer quite badly from punctures?
The only real downside is the puncture issue when out and about but this stuff honestly works very well.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WSTUSE/tufo_ex...
I punctured my rear 2 weeks ago and fixed it in 10 mins using this and i'm still riding on the tub now. Although i do plan to change it as it's worn out.
Do you suffer quite badly from punctures?
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