Back brake - how important?
Discussion
I've got a BB7 on the front which I've set-up well and is more than powerful enough. Given the vast majority of braking force is through the front (on a car anyway) would a cheapo (say Clarks ebay £15) disc brake for the back be ok?
My bikes still got a V on the back which I'm really fed up with (keep clogging with mud, rubs, goes out of adjustment etc). Luckily the frame has an IS mount.
Cheers
My bikes still got a V on the back which I'm really fed up with (keep clogging with mud, rubs, goes out of adjustment etc). Luckily the frame has an IS mount.
Cheers
AndrewEH1 said:
Rear brakes are very important on a bike.
Try only using your front brake when it is wet/slippery! You'll lose the front wheel instantly.
Clarks brakes are okay, as long as it is set up correctly it will be fine!
I second this, I've lost the front end and come off twice last year during the winter commute Try only using your front brake when it is wet/slippery! You'll lose the front wheel instantly.
Clarks brakes are okay, as long as it is set up correctly it will be fine!
Yes very, it's true the front can be more powerful because all the weight gets sent that way when you're braking, but you can change your position to compensate and actually put a lot through the rear and as above, you lock the front, you crash almost without exception.
I assume you've checked that your frame and hub has the correct mounts for disc brakes so go for it!
Personally though I'd put £80 in to a pair of Deore brakes, they're magic for the money!
I assume you've checked that your frame and hub has the correct mounts for disc brakes so go for it!
Personally though I'd put £80 in to a pair of Deore brakes, they're magic for the money!
ecsrobin said:
Try stopping very quickly with your front brake and let us know how you get on 
I do this all the time, what's the problem?Have a read of http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
Most of the time, you'll be ok. But when you really need to stop in a hurry and need a bit of brake balance...
I recently went mountain biking down a volcano in Peru. Whilst the bikes were a bit ropey, the thing which really cooked my goose was the front brake being on the WRONG SIDE. So I very quickly found out that actually, off road, I use the rear brake quite a bit. And that grabbing a handful of front brake on a sandy surface results in airtime.
itsnotarace said:
It's perfectly possible to lock a road front brake easily and if you are not prepared you will be over the bars. The key is modulation, I don't see why this is any different with disc brakes to rim
Because modulation on a road brake is far easier as they're far less effective.okgo said:
itsnotarace said:
It's perfectly possible to lock a road front brake easily and if you are not prepared you will be over the bars. The key is modulation, I don't see why this is any different with disc brakes to rim
Because modulation on a road brake is far easier as they're far less effective.If you panic grab a load of front brake alone, you will be over the bars if you are not braced for it through your arms whilst throwing weight backwards.
As I said, modulation is key. To prove this, try an emergency stop in your car using your left foot. Then try again with your normal right foot. If your name isn't Sebastian Loeb you is going to be headbutting the steering wheel.
As I said, modulation is key. To prove this, try an emergency stop in your car using your left foot. Then try again with your normal right foot. If your name isn't Sebastian Loeb you is going to be headbutting the steering wheel.
For a good rider of course I would agree that it is perfectly do able on either, but it takes time to become aware of the limitations of brakes I think and its easier to get used to road brakes as they're just not as effective I don't find (maybe I need new pads 
). When I first got discs I was never quite sure of their stopping power, and was a bit of a wimp with them vs how I treated my Magura HS33's, but it wasn't long before I could do all of the same stuff with discs that I could with the Maguras.
). When I first got discs I was never quite sure of their stopping power, and was a bit of a wimp with them vs how I treated my Magura HS33's, but it wasn't long before I could do all of the same stuff with discs that I could with the Maguras.Interesting topic, I tend to use the back break more as I encounter lots of sharp 90 degree bends that are very greasy at the moment
I used to use the front break on its own on clean dry roads and it does stop you quickly, this was on my hybrid in urban areas.
Not sure I would use it where I cycle now, simply too greasy/muddy/gravelly on rural roads and requires spot on reactions and modulation. Plus the contact area on a road bike is far less, I found the front break method brilliant on an MTB with slicks, but with a roadie its too susceptible to variables on the road.
I used to use the front break on its own on clean dry roads and it does stop you quickly, this was on my hybrid in urban areas.
Not sure I would use it where I cycle now, simply too greasy/muddy/gravelly on rural roads and requires spot on reactions and modulation. Plus the contact area on a road bike is far less, I found the front break method brilliant on an MTB with slicks, but with a roadie its too susceptible to variables on the road.
itsnotarace said:
It's just a case of practice. Just as with left foot braking in a car, your brain needs to adapt to keep the modulation under control. You will be a faster rider if you learn to use front brake alone 90% of the time
Maybe on dry well tarmacked roads you know well, I wouldn't be happy on my regular commute , threes too many pot holes, off camber greasy corners where the modulation window is too small in that the breaks do nothing then lock. I often gauge the surface friction with the back break and then "stop" with the front. If it was an urban environment with dry roads I reckon 90% of the time would be fine. Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff