Discussion
Okay so looking for some advice. Over the winter Im giving my Yeti a bit of a rebuild. I bought it second hand last year and between one thing and another the gears have just never been right (I was a bit nieve when I bought it as to how much wear was on it, the description of "very little use" was somewhat of a fib it would seem) and after being to a large LBS twice and in to Edinburgh bike for adjustment the last time it was done it was left as "thats as good as we can get it".
Now where that left me was on the first ring I could get the first lower 3/4 gears on the rear cassette. On the second ring everything was fine but on ring 3 I could only get the higher 3/4 gear before the chain was buffing on the front deraullier. Not fantastically ideal. They also never had the best change in the world.
Now before I got the bike it had new front and rear cables fitted, there was an issue with the chain jumping which was resolved with removing a link from the chain followed by a clean bill of health from the LBS.
Ive now persevered with the bike as it has not been used much this year but Ive made the decision that I want the bike 100% for next year, hence the rebuild/freshen up. Now the gear change is the biggest issue, Ive had a look and going by the chain wear guide its due for replacement (.75), also looking at the front chain rings they have a fair bit of wear and chipped teeth................so my question, with the chain & chain rings really needing replaced (rear cassette appears fine), is it worth just biting the bullet for a full new groupset (given the other issues, plus is it advised to replace the chain rings & chain without doing the cassette at the same time?), or should I just buy the required bits?
Thanks
Now where that left me was on the first ring I could get the first lower 3/4 gears on the rear cassette. On the second ring everything was fine but on ring 3 I could only get the higher 3/4 gear before the chain was buffing on the front deraullier. Not fantastically ideal. They also never had the best change in the world.
Now before I got the bike it had new front and rear cables fitted, there was an issue with the chain jumping which was resolved with removing a link from the chain followed by a clean bill of health from the LBS.
Ive now persevered with the bike as it has not been used much this year but Ive made the decision that I want the bike 100% for next year, hence the rebuild/freshen up. Now the gear change is the biggest issue, Ive had a look and going by the chain wear guide its due for replacement (.75), also looking at the front chain rings they have a fair bit of wear and chipped teeth................so my question, with the chain & chain rings really needing replaced (rear cassette appears fine), is it worth just biting the bullet for a full new groupset (given the other issues, plus is it advised to replace the chain rings & chain without doing the cassette at the same time?), or should I just buy the required bits?
Thanks
Based on your description, I'd start by finding an alternative lbs - unless your front mech is scrap you ought to be able to get more than that, and if it is scrap, they ought to have identified that.
As for replacing worn stuff.. personally I ride it until it gives issues rather than going by wear tools, but thats just me. Replacign groupset vs parts - down to cost in my book, and whether you want any new groupset features (yay for clutch mechs having made it to deore)
As for replacing worn stuff.. personally I ride it until it gives issues rather than going by wear tools, but thats just me. Replacign groupset vs parts - down to cost in my book, and whether you want any new groupset features (yay for clutch mechs having made it to deore)
richardxjr said:
Front mechs are an untidy PITA. Even if adjusted to spot on it will move and get clagged up. So consider 1x.
I agree with the front mech issue, especially on triples that then get caked in mud but a 2x10 is pretty bombproof and you can run enough ratios to ride anything in comfort. Personally I think 1x10 is quite limiting.The gears you have available to you are 'correct' you're not meant to be able to run 1st front and top rear and vice versa.
In regards to cassettes, you can really extend their life by replacing chains as/when the wear guide tells you to - once you get much past that point the cassette will wear to match the chain and will skip like f
k when you change the chain.
I'd get a new SRAM or KMC chain and replace the rings, if it skips you'll need to bite the bullet on a new Shimano Cassette, also check the condition of the jockey wheels on your rear mech, the don't cost much, but do have an effect on how nicely everything works.
A new group set is a much more expensive undertaking of course and will be all lovely and new, but for your issues it's a bit like replacing and engine in your car because it's due a service.
In regards to cassettes, you can really extend their life by replacing chains as/when the wear guide tells you to - once you get much past that point the cassette will wear to match the chain and will skip like f
k when you change the chain. I'd get a new SRAM or KMC chain and replace the rings, if it skips you'll need to bite the bullet on a new Shimano Cassette, also check the condition of the jockey wheels on your rear mech, the don't cost much, but do have an effect on how nicely everything works.
A new group set is a much more expensive undertaking of course and will be all lovely and new, but for your issues it's a bit like replacing and engine in your car because it's due a service.
Edited by P-Jay on Wednesday 27th November 12:23
pablo said:
richardxjr said:
Front mechs are an untidy PITA. Even if adjusted to spot on it will move and get clagged up. So consider 1x.
I agree with the front mech issue, especially on triples that then get caked in mud but a 2x10 is pretty bombproof and you can run enough ratios to ride anything in comfort. Personally I think 1x10 is quite limiting.Generally speaking, unless the teeth on the crank wheels are really really bent (from hitting stuff) then they almost never give issues, even when heavily worn. This is because the chain load is shared across a lot of teeth due to their large diameter. At the back, on the Cassette this not true, as it has less "wrap" and a smaller number of teeth. SLX cassettes are not that expensive and it might be worth changing to get much cleaner shifts (there are also sorts of "Lifting" and "unsetting" features machined into the cogs to help the chain move sideways when required, and if they are worn, shifting can become more difficult.
A new chain is a no-brainer really, cheap and easy to change.
When the chain is off, check how smoothly the rear mech moves up and down, if it is slow, notchy or seems to have "slack" in the cable, replacement cables (inners and outers) might be required (time consuming, but not expensive)
Finally, Check the rear derailure hanger is actually straight. I've lost count of the times people complain their gears "don't work properly" only to look at their bike and find the hanger is twisted all a-kimbo.. ;-)
Of, and really finally, use google and learn to adjust your own drive train. It's really very easy, usually just requires a cross point screwdriver and maybe an 8mm spanner. This will save you a fortune at the LBS!!
A new chain is a no-brainer really, cheap and easy to change.
When the chain is off, check how smoothly the rear mech moves up and down, if it is slow, notchy or seems to have "slack" in the cable, replacement cables (inners and outers) might be required (time consuming, but not expensive)
Finally, Check the rear derailure hanger is actually straight. I've lost count of the times people complain their gears "don't work properly" only to look at their bike and find the hanger is twisted all a-kimbo.. ;-)
Of, and really finally, use google and learn to adjust your own drive train. It's really very easy, usually just requires a cross point screwdriver and maybe an 8mm spanner. This will save you a fortune at the LBS!!
You can't really judge cassette wear by appearance, I only got 300 miles from my last MTB cassette and it looked fine but would slip under load in higher gears. For the sake of £35 you can get an SLX cassette and chain, whilst you're doing it change the cables (outer and inner). Then if you're still having problems you can look at jockey wheels and chainrings (it will then be immediately obvious if the chainrings are worn)
There are some cracking deals on chainsets, I bought a new XT one for £110 rather than replace chainrings (arms on the old ones looked scuffed so wanted to replace anyway, sold them on for £35)
The front mech should be fine - remove it and clean up the spring them lube and work through by hand if it feels a bit stiff. At worst you can buy a new one for £20.
Of course you could just buy a new groupset for about £300 and sell some of your old bits that are ok to offset the cost (maybe £70 or so?) Depends if you're looking to really refresh the bike and make it look nicer or just getting it working properly for as little as £35-50.
There are some cracking deals on chainsets, I bought a new XT one for £110 rather than replace chainrings (arms on the old ones looked scuffed so wanted to replace anyway, sold them on for £35)
The front mech should be fine - remove it and clean up the spring them lube and work through by hand if it feels a bit stiff. At worst you can buy a new one for £20.
Of course you could just buy a new groupset for about £300 and sell some of your old bits that are ok to offset the cost (maybe £70 or so?) Depends if you're looking to really refresh the bike and make it look nicer or just getting it working properly for as little as £35-50.
shouldbworking said:
I'm assuming a 9 speed here incidentally, I'd expect to get at least 6, cogs before the front mech started interfering. 3-4 is something wrong unless its like a 6 speed or something 
Sorry should have said, yes it is a 9 speed. Like you say I know your not meant to use all gears in 1 & 3 due to the strain on the chain but I'd expect to get a few more than Im currently getting.Cheers for the input though guys, might try a chain first and do some adjusting myself.
duff said:
You can't really judge cassette wear by appearance, I only got 300 miles from my last MTB cassette and it looked fine but would slip under load in higher gears. For the sake of £35 you can get an SLX cassette and chain, whilst you're doing it change the cables (outer and inner). Then if you're still having problems you can look at jockey wheels and chainrings (it will then be immediately obvious if the chainrings are worn)
There are some cracking deals on chainsets, I bought a new XT one for £110 rather than replace chainrings (arms on the old ones looked scuffed so wanted to replace anyway, sold them on for £35)
The front mech should be fine - remove it and clean up the spring them lube and work through by hand if it feels a bit stiff. At worst you can buy a new one for £20.
Of course you could just buy a new groupset for about £300 and sell some of your old bits that are ok to offset the cost (maybe £70 or so?) Depends if you're looking to really refresh the bike and make it look nicer or just getting it working properly for as little as £35-50.
TBH I really just want something that pretty much good to go with as little time spent chasing faults as possible. I think thats perhaps the biggest issue with this bike as there have been niggles and issues with the gear side of things pretty much since it was bought. I dont think its been out more than once or twice without having to go back in to get looked at for some issue or other. Where as the my other Whyte 801 just plods away tirelessly having had no more than a set of pads an recently a minor hub issue in the last 3,000miles.There are some cracking deals on chainsets, I bought a new XT one for £110 rather than replace chainrings (arms on the old ones looked scuffed so wanted to replace anyway, sold them on for £35)
The front mech should be fine - remove it and clean up the spring them lube and work through by hand if it feels a bit stiff. At worst you can buy a new one for £20.
Of course you could just buy a new groupset for about £300 and sell some of your old bits that are ok to offset the cost (maybe £70 or so?) Depends if you're looking to really refresh the bike and make it look nicer or just getting it working properly for as little as £35-50.
I may just bite the bullet and go down the new groupset side, the upside being atleaset I would have eliminated any problems sitting in the current set aside from the mental issue that I am somewhat lacking confidence in the current set up (besides its nearly x-mas), I could then sell off the current XTR bits.
I have a Yeti 575 with XT group set. I've owned the bike from new since May 2012. The gear change etc is fine. I am selling the bike as I've just bought a Yet SB95 Carbon.
I am going to sell the 575 but am not sure whether to break it and sell it or sell it as a whole. The bike could be used for spares - forks group sets, brakes, discs (203mm front). Loads of spare tyres (Maxxis minion DH and Maxxis High Roller and Nobby Nics and Racing Ralphs.) Tonnes of spare inner tubes.
ALSO… I upgraded the wheels to Crossmax SLR's in May this year. Paid £800 for them. Those wheels transformed the bike beyond recognition. If you want the bike to be 100% for next year, then look no further! These wheels are so good I specced them on the SB95 which I custom built.
Let me know what you think or PM me.
I am going to sell the 575 but am not sure whether to break it and sell it or sell it as a whole. The bike could be used for spares - forks group sets, brakes, discs (203mm front). Loads of spare tyres (Maxxis minion DH and Maxxis High Roller and Nobby Nics and Racing Ralphs.) Tonnes of spare inner tubes.
ALSO… I upgraded the wheels to Crossmax SLR's in May this year. Paid £800 for them. Those wheels transformed the bike beyond recognition. If you want the bike to be 100% for next year, then look no further! These wheels are so good I specced them on the SB95 which I custom built.
Let me know what you think or PM me.
I was having nightmares too - not only did my gears need constant tuning, I also got through entire drivetrains in well under a year - so I gradually upgraded and now have X0 rear mech, SRAM 990 cassette, 991 chain, XTR front mech and X0 shifters - it's rifle bolt precise and seems to stay "in tune" for ages. I went for higher spec stuff not for the weight saving but for the durability - for example X0 shifters are all metal. My X9s blew up very quickly. And an X0 rear mech lasts ages!
Gren said:
Apart from the jockey wheels. After just over a year my top one seizes once a month or so - needs degreasing and lubing and the bottom one looks like a set of spurs - spiky! £30 for a pair as well. Great mech/shifters though...thwack!
I upgraded mine. Everything is now chosen to last from my steel frame to my metal shifters. For about two years when I was riding loads (not nearly as much now), I was killing kit SO quickly it was getting painful. Not breaking it, just wearing it out.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff