Winter commuting - cheap MTB vs knobbly tyres...

[ShampooEfficient]

I commute 3 miles each way, at random hours of day and night. Last year I had a cheapy MTB to complement my then shiny new roadie - a Specialised Secteur Triple, fact fans.
Two years of blatant abuse by my fat self meant it suffered catastrophic failure of the crank arm area and got scrapped, so I've been using the roadie all year.
Now the weathers on its way, I don't fancy a repeat of last years "it's only a bit of ice, it'll be fi- why I am I laid on the floor, in pain, with my bike 50 ft up the road" - will I be best served getting a set of knobbly tyres (if such things exist for my tiny skinny wheels, and are effective) - or spending about the same on a second hand BSO from the small ads to see me through the winter?

[Kell]

I'm happy to be corrected on this, but I'm not sure knobbly tyres will give you any more grip on ice.

Unless they're studded.

[Watchman]

Would flat bars not be better for slippery conditions?

Knobblies won't give you much purchase on ice, but on wet leaves/greasy roads they are far better than slicks. Better still might be something more akin to a touring tyre though.

[marting]

Read sheldon browns article on tyres. IIRC tread patterns make little difference on push bikes (on road).

[Kell]

DO they do winter compound tyres? in the same way that winter car tyres have a different compound to stay flexible at lower temps.

Or does it make cock all difference?

[marting]

Kell said:

DO they do winter compound tyres? in the same way that winter car tyres have a different compound to stay flexible at lower temps.

Or does it make cock all difference?

Conti 4 seasons are a winter compound arent they?

[Bobley]

marting said:

Conti 4 seasons are a winter compound arent they?

They are soft for sure but in icy conditions I'd be reaching for the Schwalbe Ice Spikers and a plush straight bar bike. I've got a set for my MTB and 3 miles would be fine but I commute 15 miles and its a massive grind to ride on spikes so tend to just take the car and train indoors later.

[donfisher]

While there are obviously certain tyres that are better at doing certain things in certain conditions I’m afraid that when it comes to ice, I wuss-out and take the tube. I’ve got no interest in damaging myself and more importantly my bike for the sake of the benefits of cycling to work.

I’m probably wrong but I suspect that when you hit the deck last year having some different tyres would have made very little difference. As far as I know even the proper arctic circle spec studded ones are more for snow on ice rather than ice on tarmac.

[WinstonWolf]

You need a cheap BSO, the weight distribution is all wrong on a roadie. First sign of slipping you'll lose the front and be on your arse

An old MTB with a selection of tyres is the best tool for getting through winter IMO.

[Kell]

I only ask as a couple of years ago, I toyed with getting something like this:



There are no studs on the road while you're upright, but as soon as you lean, you get the benefit.

I then figured that they're pretty much too much. In terms of price and overkill.

[Bobley]

These are what I was using (Ice Spiker Pro)



They make a lot of noise so the spikes are def in contact with the ground in normal running. When you hit ice the tone changes slightly but you stay upright. My body still cant get round the expereince though and I get nervous and that can cause a problem (have haven't fallen but I find the experience unpleasant). Whilst mucking about on ice I have found they grip really well. You really need to work the bike hard to loose grip.

According to the cyclocross book I was reading last week but trick is not to seize up. I think in CX though you're best on a soft "file" tyre but I guess studs/spikes are banned.

[ShampooEfficient]

Ta all - the geometry of the roadie did only help by increasing the speed I was going when I hit the ground... I shall have a nosey for a cheap old BSO... thanks again!

[scherzkeks]

WinstonWolf said:

You need a cheap BSO, the weight distribution is all wrong on a roadie. First sign of slipping you'll lose the front and be on your arse

An old MTB with a selection of tyres is the best tool for getting through winter IMO.

? If you are sitting properly about 55 percent of your weight should be on the rear of the bike.

As for the original question, I've used 25 mm Schwalbe marathon clinchers for commuting in light snow/slush on my old 70s Colnago with no real issues. Not a "knobby" tread, but they are grippy enough. For serious snow, there are trains and cars

[WinstonWolf]

You ride a roadie if you want, I'm sticking to the MTB for the rest of winter or until my gravel rash heals...

55% of 185lb on a 23mm tyre ain't gonna see you through winter without chewing gravel at least once