3x9 to 2/3x10, talk to me

[BOBTEE]

So, my Spicy is currently 3x9. My chain is fecked, cassette is 2 years old, crankset is 4 and middle ring is a bit worn, dérailleur is 4 and a bit wobbly. Shifting isn't what it was but I'm fairly sure a new chain would go a fair way to improving that but, my shifters feel a bit tired I think, I'm sure they're not as positive as they were. I'd have no problem leaving them till they break but I'm aware of 9spd being phased out so I don't want to renew the drive train now and then break a shifter and not be able to get one.

Do I bite the bullet and go to 10spd now? Do I keep a triple up front or go to a double? Will a double give me the spread I have now? I don't use the granny much but I will get the top ring out for blats along the canal, which I intend to do more of. If I go to a double, will my triple front mech still be ok, assuming I adjust the limit screws?

Anything else to be aware of?

Ta

[Barchettaman]

change the middle chainring
new cassette (9-speed, so cheap)
new chain (likewise)
recable

new jockey wheels on your RD

job jobbed.

9-speed will be with us until the end of time, don´t worry.

[Janosh]

Unless you're riding fast on the road, I would suggest that 1x10 works just fine.

I'm using a raceface thick/thin chain ring (without a chain guide or front mech) and have no issues running with just a 10 speed block on the back.

Simple, clean and light

[anonymous-user]

I think 2x10 is perfect for the UK, my only mistake was going 40/28 on the chain ring when 38/26 would have been better. I'd not go back to a triple again now, just get a good wide spread on the cassette and you will find a ratio for everything. Bike Discount are still doing a 2x10 xt groupset (no brakes) for £350 which is a good deal if you dont need the brakes.

[BOBTEE]

I looked at chainrings, 25 quid v about 45 for a crankset... for that money I'm not getting dirty hands swapping rings!

[rhinochopig]

Janosh said:

Unless you're riding fast on the road, I would suggest that 1x10 works just fine.

I'm using a raceface thick/thin chain ring (without a chain guide or front mech) and have no issues running with just a 10 speed block on the back.

Simple, clean and light

Agreed. I run a 1x9 - 32 front and an 11-36 rear and it's fine for even the steepest of climbs.

[richardxjr]

rhinochopig said:

Janosh said:

Unless you're riding fast on the road, I would suggest that 1x10 works just fine.

I'm using a raceface thick/thin chain ring (without a chain guide or front mech) and have no issues running with just a 10 speed block on the back.

Simple, clean and light

Agreed. I run a 1x9 - 32 front and an 11-36 rear and it's fine for even the steepest of climbs.

+2

Saves half a kilo, less bar clutter, no front mech 30T, 11-36, climbs anything.

If you spin out going down the road, you've chosen the wrong way down the hill

[BOBTEE]

I've just done some digging to find what I'm actually running now,

Front is 44-32-22 (175mm cranks)

Rear is 11-34

I don't need anything smaller than 32 at the front really. If it was just for trail centres I'd agree that 1 up front would be fine, but I do get on the top ring a bit on canal rides, which I'll be doing more of.

[BOBTEE]

What about a 10 on the rear, can you get one? I can spin 32 - 11 out on the canal bank... well, I prefer to mash than spin fast

[richardxjr]

34T and 11-36 then.

If not gnarrly stuff then you prob wont need a clutch mech so can stay 9 speed.

[Barchettaman]

BOBTEE said:

What about a 10 on the rear, can you get one? I can spin 32 - 11 out on the canal bank... well, I prefer to mash than spin fast

You can, but you´ll have to use a folding-bike specific rear freehub. Capreo is the model, I think.

Sram has made a couple of one-off cassettes with a 10-th small sprocket for female pro triathletes who ride 650c wheelsets, but it isn´t mainstream stuff.

[richardxjr]

No (10T). But there is an increasing range of 42T (and soon to be 40T) sprockets which fit behind a 10-speed XT cassette with the 17T removed. It's evolving fast this 1x10 market.

I would try a Works or RaceFace 34T on it's own, see how you get on. In time you could move to 10 speed with clutch mech and wider ratios, or flog it on for little loss and go 2x

It is worth ditching that front mech & shifter if you can get the ratios to work for you though.

[BOBTEE]

So, I could get this

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-narro...

and a new chain, try it, and if I like it then go to 10spd? Hmmm, would like to ditch the front mech...

[BOBTEE]

and I presume as it's a 104 bolt pattern I can retain my existing SLX cranks?

[richardxjr]

Yes to both.

Works Components narrow/wide rings are British and cheaper, £35 delivered, but they come in and out of stock quickly.

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-...

[BOBTEE]

UPDATE:

So I went for it!

I got a Works 36 up front, SLX 11-36 (10spd) for the rear, SLX chain, Zee shifter and Zee short cage mech with clutch.

I've done a couple of short road rides with the GF, no probs, slight lack of top end but no real issue. Today I had my first go round Gisburn, my regular trail ride, all OK

I got up everywhere I wanted to and that I know I can get up. A couple of 'failure to proceeds' but that was more down to me, my poor line choice and the trail being in ruins very techie. To be fair, the couple of times I stopped I've failed on before! One new hazard seems to be over thinking it! On one short sharp climb I gave it everything I had, conscious of now not having the low gear I would have previously used, I'm also about 1.5 stone lighter than last time I did it... I got up, but on the back wheel on the brink of going over the back!

The Zee mech has a clutch, there's Zeero (;)) chain slap! It's great as that was something that used to bug the life out of me!

One dropped chain, I have no idea how though. I'd got off to clamber out of some mud and up a banking, got back on, no drive! The chain had somehow come off at the front. No idea why as down rock gardens and over some jumps was no problem... no chain guide either so happy there too.

Only downside, if you can call it that is having to retain the big ring (for now). Without it in place the bolts wouldn't locate accurately, nor would they tighten up so I've left the big ring on and it can be a serrated bash ring till I can be arsed to do anything about it!

All in, very happy and very pleased to ditch the front mech!

Thanks all for your input

[TheLemming]

Intrigued at going to 1x10....
What sort of advantages would there be, hypothetically, going from the stock setup on a boardman pro ht?
Currently 42/27 up front and 12/36 rear.

[ndg]

You'll be wanting some single speed chainring bolts then!

Charlie the bike monger or Velosolo are good for SS bits.

[BOBTEE]

TheLemming, you need to consider what gears you use and what riding you do before you change. For me it's mainly trail centres and I don't use the granny so could afford to bin that. By loosing the big ring I've lost a bit on the very top end but for me it's not an issue.

With the gearing you have, your 1st is quite low, to keep that and go single up front you'd lose quite a chunk off top end, though you could drop from a 12 to 11 on the cassette.

ndg, thanks, I'll look them up