Why the hell can't manufacturers stick to 1 bloody standard?
Why the hell can't manufacturers stick to 1 bloody standard?
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Kermit power

Original Poster:

29,622 posts

242 months

Friday 4th April 2014
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I put some nice, shiny new hydraulic calipers on my CX. They came with rotors, but as the CX already has perfectly nice rotors on, I decided to put the new ones on my MTB.

Both are 160mm rotors, and both are 6 bolt mounts. So far, so good.

The problem comes when I decide to use the bolts from the new rotors, as the old bolts are somewhat corroded. Who the hell thought it was a good bloody idea to make different combinations of hubs and bolts, resulting in the new bolt being a couple of mm longer, and therefore punching a perfect hole out of the back of the bloody hub! irked

One might also ask what is the sodding point of using a torque wrench set to the correct setting if it's going to allow it to make a hole in the sodding hub before it bloody clicks. furious

Just what I didn't bloody need right now was the expense of a new hub or wheel. frown

matt-ITR

892 posts

218 months

Saturday 5th April 2014
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I was expecting this to be about BBs or headsets... not bolts.

Disc brake bolts have been pretty standard for years.
T25 head. 5x12mm.

Kermit power

Original Poster:

29,622 posts

242 months

Saturday 5th April 2014
quotequote all
matt-ITR said:
I was expecting this to be about BBs or headsets... not bolts.

Disc brake bolts have been pretty standard for years.
T25 head. 5x12mm.
That's what I thought. They're both T25 and 5mm, but assuming the new bolts are 12mm, then the bolt holes on my circa 2007 Hope hubs are more like 10-11mm deep.

Gizmoish

18,150 posts

238 months

Saturday 5th April 2014
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Differentiation, innit.

upsidedownmark

2,120 posts

164 months

Sunday 6th April 2014
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Depending on where and how it's punched a hole, you quite possibly may as well ignore it / don't need to replace the hub..

lufbramatt

5,676 posts

163 months

Monday 7th April 2014
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What hubs are they? The rotor bolt holes on my Hope hubs are drilled all the way through, so the only thing a long bolt would hit is the flange for the spokes.

Kermit power

Original Poster:

29,622 posts

242 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
upsidedownmark said:
Depending on where and how it's punched a hole, you quite possibly may as well ignore it / don't need to replace the hub..
I was wondering this yesterday. It doesn't look structural, and if I can punch a hole through it before my torque wrench clicks at 7nm torque, then I suppose it probably isn't. I suppose I'm just slightly paranoid about the thought of a hub imploding at speed on singletrack somewhere without mobile coverage!

upsidedownmark

2,120 posts

164 months

Monday 7th April 2014
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Unfortunately I've lent my MTB out, so I can't have a look, but from memory the part of the hub the disc mounts onto is outboard of the spokes/flange both along the axle and radially - it's just 'extra metal' that wouldn't be there on a non-disc hub (if you see what I mean). I can't recall whether the threads are tapped all the way through and open at the back, or if they're a dead end as I'm guessing yours were - I certainly wouldn't be worried if they were dead-ended, and I'd pushed the back out with relatively little force; I'm be thinking that there wasn't much metal behind an it went easily. If big chunks have split off, I might be more circumspect. Also (from memory) on mine, if that part did fail, it wouldn't affect the rolling part, though it might affect the braking.. If it'a actually punched through the flange the spokes are hooked into, I don't know. That's more of a call.

Kermit power

Original Poster:

29,622 posts

242 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
upsidedownmark said:
Unfortunately I've lent my MTB out, so I can't have a look, but from memory the part of the hub the disc mounts onto is outboard of the spokes/flange both along the axle and radially - it's just 'extra metal' that wouldn't be there on a non-disc hub (if you see what I mean). I can't recall whether the threads are tapped all the way through and open at the back, or if they're a dead end as I'm guessing yours were - I certainly wouldn't be worried if they were dead-ended, and I'd pushed the back out with relatively little force; I'm be thinking that there wasn't much metal behind an it went easily. If big chunks have split off, I might be more circumspect. Also (from memory) on mine, if that part did fail, it wouldn't affect the rolling part, though it might affect the braking.. If it'a actually punched through the flange the spokes are hooked into, I don't know. That's more of a call.
You're right - it's definitely not the flange the spokes hook into.

Curse you and your sensible attempts to get in the way of nice, new and shiny!!! hehe

Celtic Dragon

3,353 posts

264 months

Monday 7th April 2014
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My shimano hubs have an external rotor that is drilled all the way through, once the brake rotor is mounted you'd need 20mm+ bolts to hit the flange that holds the spokes.

upsidedownmark

2,120 posts

164 months

Monday 7th April 2014
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Kermit power said:
You're right - it's definitely not the flange the spokes hook into.

Curse you and your sensible attempts to get in the way of nice, new and shiny!!! hehe
hehe Sorry! Thought given your original post it might have been a bit of a relief..