Seized spd cleat bolt

[d8mok]

I need to replace my cleats on my mtb shoes as my left foot is constantly unclipping and the cleat is pretty worn.

However one of the allen keys is seized , and its stsrting to round off. Any suggestions before i have to buy a new pair of shoes? I really like them so seems a shame if i can fix.

I considered drilling the head off the bolt, but i expect i would still stuggle to remove the remaining stud. Shoes are Lake if it makes any difference.

[TwistingMyMelon]

Be careful, I had this before and I drilled the bolt out, fked it up and had two bolts left. I still use the shoes and they are OK with 2 bolts on a SPD-SL cleat, even if the cleat flexes a bit!! Use them as my spare shoes

I would soak it for a day in good quality penetrating fluid then try with a new decent quality alien key, maybe a long reach one to apply force better

[d8mok]

Ive already soaked the offending bolt and still no joy. I must also point out that they have been in there for about 3-4 years i bet. Shoes are 6 years old but still so comfy and perfect fit.

[Watchman]

See if you can support the plate from inside and clout the head of the bolt with a hammer a few times. A light hammer with a sharp smack can sometimes break the (inevitably) rusty grip on the threads.

Start off relatively gently though - not sure how much tolerance the moulded plastics of the sole and the mount for the cleat plate have for such violence. It's an accepted practice for removing stubborn automotive bolts.

[SkinnyBoy]

Hammer a torx bit in there and give that a go. For future reference once you have fitted new screws fill in the head with silicone sealant this helps keep the crap out of em.

[The_Gza]

I've had this too - because water inevitably gets inside the shoe it can sit in the channel under the insole next to the cleat plate causing the screws to rust into the plate. Mine simply wouldn't budge despite everything I threw at it. Eventually had to drill the screw out - start small (2mm or so) and work up in stages to weaken the screw without damaging the sole. You might find you've need a new cleat plate as well as the cleat and screws themselves.

As another poster mentioned, silicon or even blutac in the screws can stop the crap getting in there so you can get better purchase when trying to remove, but also don't forget to put something on the cleat plate inside the shoe to stop it rusting away unseen under the insole!

[richardxjr]

Cut a slot in the bolt head with a dremel and use a big ol flat blade screwdriver

[neilski]

Take it to a guy in the street in Luang Prabang, Laos and ask him to drill the head off then watch in amazement as he proceeds to cut the cleat off with an angle grinder.

He made an x-shaped cut in mine so that the two sides of the cleat could slide out from under the head of the bolts. Once the bolts were no longer under any tension, they were easy to undo by hand.






Or just drill the head off and hope the lack of any tension allows you to turn the remainder of the bolt by hand / with mole grips.

Edited by neilski on Wednesday 11th June 15:59

[d8mok]

Thanks for replies.

Neilski can i mail you the shoe so when you do lap 2 of your travels the guy can sort me out ? lol

I think im gonna drill the head off it first and hope it releases the tension. Ill report back

[neilski]

Yeah, send it to me in Argentina but be aware the postal service here is a bit pony. Or should that be donkey? Still waiting on a replacement hub that was posted on May 28th.

[Justin S]

If you have removable plates inside the shoe, then just drill the bolt head out, take the cleat off , remove the plate and use a turbo torch to heat the plate it and it will easily unscrew out.

[d8mok]

All sorted.

Quite easy but lost a piece of skin off my knuckle on one of the bolts.

Ended up drilling 2 out, 1 undid after being lubed , and one I used Dremel to cut a slot for a screwdriver. Screwdriver method was kicked into touch once I'd parted with blood.

Cheers chaps