Think I've bent my rear wheel - recommended replacement?
Think I've bent my rear wheel - recommended replacement?
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Discussion

Hell27

Original Poster:

1,564 posts

220 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Hi, I went out last Monday for a 30 miler on my road bike, and picked up some punctures. Thing is, I rode on the puncture for a bit looking for a bike shop or supermarket as earlier in the ride my pump fell off and exploded under a wagon!
Now after upgrading to slime innerspring and gator hard shells on my Scott Speedster 30, I think the back wheel is a bit bent.
Looking at replacement 700 x 23 rims, they ain't cheap, and the rear syncros race 27 might be hard to source. So I looked at shimano ultegra 6800's. On wiggle for £218.00 a pair. Are they any good?

HughG

3,744 posts

270 months

Friday 12th June 2015
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At that sort of money I think the Fulcrum racing 3s are meant to be about the best available.

timnoyce

413 posts

210 months

Friday 12th June 2015
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Where do you live? Worth getting the current wheel straightened first before buying a new pair at least.

yellowjack

18,434 posts

195 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Sorry if this sounds sarcastic, it isn't meant to...

You "think" your rim is "a bit bent"? It either is, or it isn't. Have you checked to confirm the diagnosis, or does it just 'feel' bent when you ride it?

To check, tape a piece of card onto the seat stay, touching the rim (or very close to touching, anyway) and spin the wheel. A 'true' wheel will remain the same distance from the card laterally (side to side) and vertically (the 'roundness' of the wheel) within a tolerance of a few millimetres. Take care to look only at the rim at this stage.

The reason I say this is that you mention having fitted new tyres. Have these new tyres 'seated' properly? Sometimes, with a tight tyre, the 'bead' of the tyre can remain in the well of the rim on inflation, and not 'pop onto' the hook of the rim. This can mimic the symptoms of a damaged rim, but can be remedied by over-inflating the tyre until the tyre seats itself correctly. I have this problem with Continental GP 4Seasons on some 'old skool' rims I have, and it's always necessary to over-inflate to seat them properly.

The other thing to consider is that even if there is a 'throw' in the rim, they may well be repairable. You'd be surprised at just how much of a throw can be adjusted out of a wheel, especially if you've got a local shop with a skilled wheelbuilder on the premises.

In your position, I'd check the tyres are correctly seated first, then take it to a LBS to see if it can be repaired, before even thinking about new wheels. Unless, of course, you want new wheels. In which case, get this set repaired as well, and fit winter tyres to them as a spare set to save the new 'best' wheels from excessive wear in tougher conditions... wink

Apologies if that is all a bit "teaching granny to suck eggs", but go with the cheapest solution first, unless the rim is quite obviously the source of the trouble.

Steve vRS

5,391 posts

270 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Rick, if it is bent, these are all the wheels you will ever need.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-...

I changed from Ultegras to these when my Tegs wore out and these just spin and spin. they are also much easier to get a tyre on and off than the Ultegras. I was terrified of getting a puncture on those wheels!

Steve

Hell27

Original Poster:

1,564 posts

220 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
M
yellowjack said:
Sorry if this sounds sarcastic, it isn't meant to...

You "think" your rim is "a bit bent"? It either is, or it isn't. Have you checked to confirm the diagnosis, or does it just 'feel' bent when you ride it?

To check, tape a piece of card onto the seat stay, touching the rim (or very close to touching, anyway) and spin the wheel. A 'true' wheel will remain the same distance from the card laterally (side to side) and vertically (the 'roundness' of the wheel) within a tolerance of a few millimetres. Take care to look only at the rim at this stage.

The reason I say this is that you mention having fitted new tyres. Have these new tyres 'seated' properly? Sometimes, with a tight tyre, the 'bead' of the tyre can remain in the well of the rim on inflation, and not 'pop onto' the hook of the rim. This can mimic the symptoms of a damaged rim, but can be remedied by over-inflating the tyre until the tyre seats itself correctly. I have this problem with Continental GP 4Seasons on some 'old skool' rims I have, and it's always necessary to over-inflate to seat them properly.

The other thing to consider is that even if there is a 'throw' in the rim, they may well be repairable. You'd be surprised at just how much of a throw can be adjusted out of a wheel, especially if you've got a local shop with a skilled wheelbuilder on the premises.

In your position, I'd check the tyres are correctly seated first, then take it to a LBS to see if it can be repaired, before even thinking about new wheels. Unless, of course, you want new wheels. In which case, get this set repaired as well, and fit winter tyres to them as a spare set to save the new 'best' wheels from excessive wear in tougher conditions... wink

Apologies if that is all a bit "teaching granny to suck eggs", but go with the cheapest solution first, unless the rim is quite obviously the source of the trouble.
Yellowjack, thanks for the reply, I don't think you are being sarcastic at all, just offering some good advice. I'm no cycling God, and am just starting getting my head round elements of bike maintenance. I'll try the card and rim, plus LBS. I don't particularly want to replace the rims if I don't have to - my Scott feels like a rocket ship compared to my Trek Hardtail, so if it ain't broke too bad I won't fix it!

Steve, cheers for the tip on the wheels. If they are knackered then I will check out those campagnolas. They look ace!

ALawson

8,054 posts

280 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
By the time you add in the cost of new rim, spokes and labour it will cheaper just to get new wheels (man maths)!

Hell27

Original Poster:

1,564 posts

220 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
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Took it to LBS. Hadn't inflated it enough and wasn't seated properly!
They took pity on my numptyism and sorted it!
I dropped the Trek off too for an overhaul - new rear pads, jockey wheels, chain and fork service.
Next week should have both bikes shipshape and Bristol fashion.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

yellowjack

18,434 posts

195 months

Sunday 14th June 2015
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Hell27 said:
Took it to LBS. Hadn't inflated it enough and wasn't seated properly!
They took pity on my numptyism and sorted it!
Hell yes! I diagnosed that over the internet. Yay! Go me!

yellowjack said:
...the reason I say this is that you mention having fitted new tyres. Have these new tyres 'seated' properly? Sometimes, with a tight tyre, the 'bead' of the tyre can remain in the well of the rim on inflation, and not 'pop onto' the hook of the rim. This can mimic the symptoms of a damaged rim, but can be remedied by over-inflating the tyre until the tyre seats itself correctly. I have this problem with Continental GP 4Seasons on some 'old skool' rims I have, and it's always necessary to over-inflate to seat them properly...
From now on I shall only answer to the title "The Bike Doctor"...

wink

Oh, and 'Hell27'? Buy yourself a track pump, as you'll likely have the same problem again, and a track pump will sort it for you in seconds, whereas you might struggle to get the pressure high enough with a 'hand' bike pump. I'll bet you're glad it doesn't need new wheels, though?

Hell27

Original Poster:

1,564 posts

220 months

Sunday 14th June 2015
quotequote all
Very glad I don't need new wheels and thanks for the advice. I do actually have and used a track pump, but I think there's a fault with it - it struggles to get above 100psi.

Now it's time to rate the gator hard shells - next week should see some opportunity to bed them in!