Measurement Advice
Discussion
You may very well be stretched on the "summer" bike. 8cm is a lot of setback unless you are long-legged and have a long femur.
Start putting the saddle in the center of the rails and measuring the KOPS position as a baseline for setback. You can move back by 1-1.5 cms behind the spindle if needed, but this is personal preference. Once you have the saddle position, then fiddle with the stem if needed.
Start putting the saddle in the center of the rails and measuring the KOPS position as a baseline for setback. You can move back by 1-1.5 cms behind the spindle if needed, but this is personal preference. Once you have the saddle position, then fiddle with the stem if needed.
It sounds like you're all over the place at the moment...
I aim to have all my bikes set up the same way within 0.5cm. In my case, it's based on a static bike fit that I had done a few years ago. I have my saddle 1cm lower than the fit suggested as having it higher caused me knee trouble. But I have set up the same reach, bar drop etc on all my bikes.
It's not surprising your winter bike is more comfortable as it's way less stretched out. I think you need to establish whether you can adjust to the position that the static fit suggested, and move the winter bike in that direction, or whether there's something about the static fit you just can't adjust to.
One thing to remember is that you should treat saddle height/setback and bar reach/drop as completely separate entities. The first is more governed by your leg length and the second more by your arm and torso length. Your flexibility has an impact on both.
outnumbered said:
It sounds like you're all over the place at the moment...
I aim to have all my bikes set up the same way within 0.5cm. In my case, it's based on a static bike fit that I had done a few years ago. I have my saddle 1cm lower than the fit suggested as having it higher caused me knee trouble. But I have set up the same reach, bar drop etc on all my bikes.
Likewise, my 3 bikes are all pretty much bang on the same measurements.I aim to have all my bikes set up the same way within 0.5cm. In my case, it's based on a static bike fit that I had done a few years ago. I have my saddle 1cm lower than the fit suggested as having it higher caused me knee trouble. But I have set up the same reach, bar drop etc on all my bikes.
scherzkeks said:
You are 174 cm and were running 9 cm of drop and 8 cm of setback?
I'd ask for a refund.
LOLI'd ask for a refund.
Seriously though you must look like superman on the bike, my saddle to bar drop is 9.5cm and reach same as your summer bike - AND I have short legs so if I was more regular I'd not go for that much reach - I think saddle forward may help
What stem again? cba to do the maths to work it out
Im similar height (maybe 1cm shorter) and my summer bike has a reach of around 50cm and my Winter around 52/3, although my winter is a size too big, but it doesn't bother me as I am usually between sizes
I normally have most saddles on max setback, always tried them more forward but it never gels, think my femur/thighs are quite long , I do look a bit like superman as well on the bike, but I know what works for me. I also run short stems to adapt to the setback of the saddle.
To me if I can ride 70 miles + with no aches or pains the fit is right for me , plus when sprinting/putting power down in the saddle I can tell if anything is slightly out. Took months of the off 1/2 or 1cm here and there to get my latest bike right.
Your bike sizes look quite big, I have 2 x 52 bikes and 1 x 54.5. The 54.5 ironically fits the best , when it shouldn't, although I am on the very very cusp of it being too big . Having thought about it like me you are probs in-between sizes, my smaller Wilier which is a 52 I get toe overlap
I normally have most saddles on max setback, always tried them more forward but it never gels, think my femur/thighs are quite long , I do look a bit like superman as well on the bike, but I know what works for me. I also run short stems to adapt to the setback of the saddle.
To me if I can ride 70 miles + with no aches or pains the fit is right for me , plus when sprinting/putting power down in the saddle I can tell if anything is slightly out. Took months of the off 1/2 or 1cm here and there to get my latest bike right.
Your bike sizes look quite big, I have 2 x 52 bikes and 1 x 54.5. The 54.5 ironically fits the best , when it shouldn't, although I am on the very very cusp of it being too big . Having thought about it like me you are probs in-between sizes, my smaller Wilier which is a 52 I get toe overlap
Edited by TwistingMyMelon on Tuesday 7th July 09:37
I know we are all set up experts but considering the amount of time you enjoy spending on the bike and the issues you have already had can I recommend you go and see someone about setting your bikes up correctly for you, the guides on the web can be helpful but they can also vary by user with correct implementation.
We have also now found out the OKGO is actually a baboon based on his set up !!!
We have also now found out the OKGO is actually a baboon based on his set up !!!
Both are miles apart and sound too stretched to me and that much bar drop doesn't add up. Frames sound too big, but then the seatpost is way up in the air?
Mine fit perfectly (recent long comfy rides proves that). 180cm normal proportion, ETT is 56cm, saddle tip to centre of bar tops is 52.5cm. Saddle drop 4cm on Xer and 6cm on road bike.
You can't just move the saddle forward either. Get the saddle height right first, then the saddle fore/aft is fixed to fit you (KOPS as a guide), then you adjust reach with stem length, assuming frame fits.
Just get another bike fit (off a different fitter)
Mine fit perfectly (recent long comfy rides proves that). 180cm normal proportion, ETT is 56cm, saddle tip to centre of bar tops is 52.5cm. Saddle drop 4cm on Xer and 6cm on road bike.
You can't just move the saddle forward either. Get the saddle height right first, then the saddle fore/aft is fixed to fit you (KOPS as a guide), then you adjust reach with stem length, assuming frame fits.
Just get another bike fit (off a different fitter)
Edited by richardxjr on Tuesday 7th July 16:36
Are the stem lengths the same on each bike?
Perhaps worth swapping over?
I find I can manage with the 'wrong' stem length but mess with the saddle and it gets uncomfortable pretty quickly.
FWIW my Wilier is 10mm longer on the top tube with a 10mm longer stem then my winter bike, both feel acceptable although the winter bike feels more 'alien' when I first sit on it. I suspect that a 10mm shorter stem on Wilier would be perfect but TBH I can't be arsed replacing the stem that is on it!
Perhaps worth swapping over?
I find I can manage with the 'wrong' stem length but mess with the saddle and it gets uncomfortable pretty quickly.
FWIW my Wilier is 10mm longer on the top tube with a 10mm longer stem then my winter bike, both feel acceptable although the winter bike feels more 'alien' when I first sit on it. I suspect that a 10mm shorter stem on Wilier would be perfect but TBH I can't be arsed replacing the stem that is on it!
anonymous said:
[redacted]
For a guy who is 174, a saddle height of approx 76 from crank pin to saddle top is very high. Heel on pedal method would require your inseam to be about 89 cm for that height (with std. shoe/pedal stack), and the usual formula methods would yield a shorter inseam of about 86. This would mean quite long legs for someone your size -- or something is way, way off here. Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff