Front derailleur advice
Discussion
So I went out for my first ride tonight on a lovely Wilier road bike I picked up at the weekend. Settling in to using it and getting everything set up, and after 10 or so miles was starting to get in tune with it so feeling pleased with myself and decided to try out its uphill ability.
I was more than pleased with this too, and was powering up a relatively steep hill at a pace I've never managed before when my chain snapped!
I'm fairly certain it jammed between the front derailleur and the outer chain set (sixth sense although I didn't see it) which led me to check the adjustment on the front derailleur. Does this look to low? The chain fitted was a KMC although not sure which one, but it does seem quite wide to my untrained eye. The bike has an FSA carbon chain set with a Campagnolo Carbon titanium groupset. Should I put a Campy record chain on and will this be a better match than the KMC, and should I adjust the derailleur higher?
I was more than pleased with this too, and was powering up a relatively steep hill at a pace I've never managed before when my chain snapped!
I'm fairly certain it jammed between the front derailleur and the outer chain set (sixth sense although I didn't see it) which led me to check the adjustment on the front derailleur. Does this look to low? The chain fitted was a KMC although not sure which one, but it does seem quite wide to my untrained eye. The bike has an FSA carbon chain set with a Campagnolo Carbon titanium groupset. Should I put a Campy record chain on and will this be a better match than the KMC, and should I adjust the derailleur higher?
If the outer plate clears the top of the teeth, it's fine (in theory should be about a 1mm gap as it passes over the top of the teeth) remember it rises as it swings out. Generally speaking, close is good, leads to better shifting. It can't 'jam between' really - it's jamming it between the inner plate and the shift ramps on the inside face of the outer ring that moves it up, and it's the outer plate pulling it inwards that drops it onto the smaller ring.. thus those plates are best close to the top of the outer ring, notwithstanding the fact it has to clear the teeth. The chain never passes between the bottom of the cage sideplate and the ring as I suspect you might be alluding.
Highly unlikely the front mech had anything to do with the break
Ditto, there's nothing magical about any particular chain - I personally choose / rate KMC over many others. Depends how and where it's broken. Leading cause is generally incorrect insertion / reuse of joining pins, or even re-inserting a 'pin' that has been pushed out, but isn't designed to be re-used. KMC generally have a magic link (removable), which might not have been properly re-assembled, hard to say (but they are a great inovation when it comes to maintenance and cleaning).
I'd put a new chain on it (keep the old one to compare for length), and not worry too much unless you have further problems.
Highly unlikely the front mech had anything to do with the break
Ditto, there's nothing magical about any particular chain - I personally choose / rate KMC over many others. Depends how and where it's broken. Leading cause is generally incorrect insertion / reuse of joining pins, or even re-inserting a 'pin' that has been pushed out, but isn't designed to be re-used. KMC generally have a magic link (removable), which might not have been properly re-assembled, hard to say (but they are a great inovation when it comes to maintenance and cleaning).
I'd put a new chain on it (keep the old one to compare for length), and not worry too much unless you have further problems.
Edited by upsidedownmark on Thursday 21st April 01:07
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