Discussion
Been playing with the idea of buying DI2 and "hiding" it.......anyone done it?
Thinking of something like a bar/stem combo where the junction box can sit hidden in the stem, with the cables running to it. (Canyon aero cockpit)
Then running a cable through the steerer (meaning I'd have to cut a small slot in it) and feed it do down tube for rest of the DI2 gear.
Frames a Ribble Aero 883, but does anyone have any advice on what bars/stem to use?
Thinking of something like a bar/stem combo where the junction box can sit hidden in the stem, with the cables running to it. (Canyon aero cockpit)
Then running a cable through the steerer (meaning I'd have to cut a small slot in it) and feed it do down tube for rest of the DI2 gear.
Frames a Ribble Aero 883, but does anyone have any advice on what bars/stem to use?
Aesthetics, I guess. I feel the same as the OP, but to be honest, I can't afford a new bike at the moment so it's a bit of a moot point. I agree though, for me, if you're spending that much on a bike, I wouldn't want to see the junction box.
I decided that my dream build would be SRAM Etap, with hydraulic rim brakes. I'm not sure if this is available yet, the two are separately, but I'm not sure if you can get the Etap hoods with hydraulic reservoirs for the rim brakes.
I decided that my dream build would be SRAM Etap, with hydraulic rim brakes. I'm not sure if this is available yet, the two are separately, but I'm not sure if you can get the Etap hoods with hydraulic reservoirs for the rim brakes.
I have "hidden" DI2 on my Cervelo P5 TT bike - but then its designed for it so its kind of cheating - the only visible cables are the ones to each dérailleur
You do need access to the junction box to charge it, although that's about 1000km a time so its not a big deal (I have to remove the back wheel to get at it)
I believe shimano are just about to launch updated D-Fly with bluetooth so there will be an app that allows you to tinker from your phone (currently requires plugging into a windows laptop) - not of any real use I can see, but who doesn't love a gadget.
You do need access to the junction box to charge it, although that's about 1000km a time so its not a big deal (I have to remove the back wheel to get at it)
I believe shimano are just about to launch updated D-Fly with bluetooth so there will be an app that allows you to tinker from your phone (currently requires plugging into a windows laptop) - not of any real use I can see, but who doesn't love a gadget.
louiebaby said:
Aesthetics, I guess. I feel the same as the OP, but to be honest, I can't afford a new bike at the moment so it's a bit of a moot point. I agree though, for me, if you're spending that much on a bike, I wouldn't want to see the junction box.
I decided that my dream build would be SRAM Etap, with hydraulic rim brakes. I'm not sure if this is available yet, the two are separately, but I'm not sure if you can get the Etap hoods with hydraulic reservoirs for the rim brakes.
I can see why you'd want to hide the Di2, given that there's no real downside bar occasionally having to get to it to charge it, but why on earth would you go to the expense and extra weight of hydraulics and then fit it to rim brakes? I decided that my dream build would be SRAM Etap, with hydraulic rim brakes. I'm not sure if this is available yet, the two are separately, but I'm not sure if you can get the Etap hoods with hydraulic reservoirs for the rim brakes.
Its an OCD I agree with.
It really feels like an after thought, and only know being properly thought into bike design.
On my Madone the junction box fits into the down tube and all cables are internally routed:
Whereas on my Parlee is a bit inelegant. If wireless eTap was out when I bought the Parlee; I would be running that not Di2 (I'm agnostic, often riding Sram Red when abroad).
It really feels like an after thought, and only know being properly thought into bike design.
On my Madone the junction box fits into the down tube and all cables are internally routed:
Whereas on my Parlee is a bit inelegant. If wireless eTap was out when I bought the Parlee; I would be running that not Di2 (I'm agnostic, often riding Sram Red when abroad).
gazza285 said:
Kermit power said:
Why on earth would you go to the expense and extra weight of hydraulics and then fit it to rim brakes?
Lever feel and braking power probably.I'd do more research, but I think hydraulic rims would give me increased braking power, and still look good (to me.). I weigh around 100kgs anyway, so the very small weight penalty of hydraulic rims over cable is of no consequence.
I can't afford any of it anyway, so it's kinda all hypothetical.
louiebaby said:
gazza285 said:
Kermit power said:
Why on earth would you go to the expense and extra weight of hydraulics and then fit it to rim brakes?
Lever feel and braking power probably.I'd do more research, but I think hydraulic rims would give me increased braking power, and still look good (to me.). I weigh around 100kgs anyway, so the very small weight penalty of hydraulic rims over cable is of no consequence.
I can't afford any of it anyway, so it's kinda all hypothetical.
The rest of the debate is interesting. Some people still don't want it as they worry about reliability. Those in the know are hiding everything away, to get beautiful clean looks, as Di2 is virtually fit and forget.
Mine is an early fit so I have the indexing box hanging from my handlebars. I must say that it really doesn't both me... or at least it didn't until I saw that Madone! Nice.
Raven Flyer said:
Hydraulic rim brakes are just going to crush the rims or overheat them, on any carbon wheel. Completely pointless.
Why do you think hydraulic rim brakes would crush the rim? Cervelo didn't think it a problem on their P5 bicycle, when they fitted the lighter than cable Magura hydraulic rim brakes. Edited by gazza285 on Tuesday 10th May 16:34
.. and having ridden them, they're rather nice. There's nothing magic about hydraulic, it's just another way of transmitting force; plus side it's not affected by kinks/routing, downside, it's not so simple to work on.
Because you can easily change the motion ratio (via different cylinder sizes), you have the potential for a lot of force without long levers, but it doesn't mean that's how it's engineered. You can get just as much ratio/force mechanically, either way, too much motion ratio and you either run out of travel at the lever, or the pads sit too close and rub.
Because you can easily change the motion ratio (via different cylinder sizes), you have the potential for a lot of force without long levers, but it doesn't mean that's how it's engineered. You can get just as much ratio/force mechanically, either way, too much motion ratio and you either run out of travel at the lever, or the pads sit too close and rub.
Not a Road bike, but my old Proflex had hydraulic rim brakes way back in the 90s.
The biggest problem with them was that if the wheel was only slightly out of true then they would jam on as they had so little clearance because they didn't move very far.
Clearly this was a major design flaw on a Mountain bike and I could understand why they didn't really take off back then.
I didn't know anyone was still messing about with them.
The biggest problem with them was that if the wheel was only slightly out of true then they would jam on as they had so little clearance because they didn't move very far.
Clearly this was a major design flaw on a Mountain bike and I could understand why they didn't really take off back then.
I didn't know anyone was still messing about with them.
Kell said:
Not a Road bike, but my old Proflex had hydraulic rim brakes way back in the 90s.
The biggest problem with them was that if the wheel was only slightly out of true then they would jam on as they had so little clearance because they didn't move very far.
Clearly this was a major design flaw on a Mountain bike and I could understand why they didn't really take off back then.
I didn't know anyone was still messing about with them.
I had some Magura Hydraulic rim brakes on a Marin I used to ride back in about 1994. TBH they were a pain in the arse on an MTB, but I'd have thought they would be OK on a road bike given some development work (which I assume has taken place in the last 20 years)The biggest problem with them was that if the wheel was only slightly out of true then they would jam on as they had so little clearance because they didn't move very far.
Clearly this was a major design flaw on a Mountain bike and I could understand why they didn't really take off back then.
I didn't know anyone was still messing about with them.
louiebaby said:
gazza285 said:
Kermit power said:
Why on earth would you go to the expense and extra weight of hydraulics and then fit it to rim brakes?
Lever feel and braking power probably.I'd do more research, but I think hydraulic rims would give me increased braking power, and still look good (to me.). I weigh around 100kgs anyway, so the very small weight penalty of hydraulic rims over cable is of no consequence.
I can't afford any of it anyway, so it's kinda all hypothetical.
1. How much do your wheels cost £300 a pair, £500? £1,500? Every time you hit the brakes, you're ever so slightly wearing away the rims. Given that the extra power of hydraulics lets you wear down a £30 rotor instead, why would you use hydraulic rim brakes to wear away the expensive wheels instead?
2. If you're ever going to ride the bike in the rain, then rim brakes are utter crap in comparison to disc brakes, because the rims are getting constantly deluged in rain and all the greasy crap it washes up off the roads, whereas your rotor in by the hub is as far from it as you can get.
The only possible reason I can see for hydraulic rim brakes would be to retro-fit them to a non-disc frame?
Oh gawd.. can of worms, do we really have to do this 
Hydraulics is just another way of actuating. There's no magical increased power, that just comes from the motion ratio between the lever and the pad, and can be designed in or out of the system whether it's actuated by a wire, or hydraulics. What hydraulics definitely do bring is the ability to have convoluted and awkward routings (see internal routing and aesthetics) and still have the system run freely. IMHO that would be the BIG win for hydraulic rims. See also rotor with their new hydraulic shifting..
Some folks will disagree with you about rims not working in the wet, and don't want discs on their road bikes. Just accept it
Hydraulics is just another way of actuating. There's no magical increased power, that just comes from the motion ratio between the lever and the pad, and can be designed in or out of the system whether it's actuated by a wire, or hydraulics. What hydraulics definitely do bring is the ability to have convoluted and awkward routings (see internal routing and aesthetics) and still have the system run freely. IMHO that would be the BIG win for hydraulic rims. See also rotor with their new hydraulic shifting..
Some folks will disagree with you about rims not working in the wet, and don't want discs on their road bikes. Just accept it
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