Time to stick the winter wheels on?
Discussion
Well, we've had a few frosts now....it's November, so do we reckon it's time to put my nicer wheelset away and stick on my old crummy wheels with ultra-puncture proof tyres?
Main reason for the change is to preserve the life of my nicer wheels really. I think they're in pretty good condition with a fair bit of life left, but I figure no harm using the older wheels that came with the bike over the winter. Also, they have more puncture resistant tyres. Or do I cling on to the last remaining look of summer for another few weeks!? If you guys have multiple wheelsets, when are you changing, if you haven't already?
Cheers
Main reason for the change is to preserve the life of my nicer wheels really. I think they're in pretty good condition with a fair bit of life left, but I figure no harm using the older wheels that came with the bike over the winter. Also, they have more puncture resistant tyres. Or do I cling on to the last remaining look of summer for another few weeks!? If you guys have multiple wheelsets, when are you changing, if you haven't already?
Cheers
Assuming you've got caliper brakes it makes sense to put the cheaper wheels on for winter. Winter road grit murders the braking surface on the rims, and if you've got beefier tyres you're less likely to have to spend ten or twenty minutes struggling to change a tube with cold wet fingers.
I have a summer and winter wheelset and I changed mine over a few weeks ago. I'd like to keep my carbon wheels in as good a nick as possible and the crap that gets put on the roads in winter would eat away at the hubs, spokes and braking surface. That said my winter wheels are a good set of wheels, handbuilt with HED rims and hope hubs and are only 150g heavier. They are almost indestructible.
Barchettaman said:
Crummy wheels and puncture proof tyres: for training all year round.
Racing wheels and rubber are for racing only. To do anything else is pretty daft.
Not sure I agree with that, I enjoy using my nicer wheels in the summer because they feel nice....thus making the riding more enjoyable; nothing wrong with that IMO.Racing wheels and rubber are for racing only. To do anything else is pretty daft.
okgo said:
It may shock you to hear that a dry day in January is the same as a dry day in July.
Spec bike according to weather on the day you wanna ride
Maybe where you live, but certainly on some of the country roads around here there's considerably more crap on the roads at that time of year compared to the summer.Spec bike according to weather on the day you wanna ride
E65Ross said:
Maybe where you live, but certainly on some of the country roads around here there's considerably more crap on the roads at that time of year compared to the summer.
Sure, but a long dry period will have you riding on dry roads, same as it would be in summer.I don't really understand why there needs to be a set date that stuff happens, I've ridden my s
t bike in June as the weather has been awful, equally I've ridden my race bike in the depths of winter with nice wheels if the weather is nice BUT
Of course if you want to buy into the cycling folklore bulls
t, then its easy - hypothetically, here is what you do: The minute you finish your season, you take a week off the bike totally, then spend a Oct pissing about doing fun rides. Then in Nov you start the base work (on your winter bike, which must be st, heavy, ugly etc and you need to let EVERYONE know that you're riding it on twitter). You'll slate anyone who rides fast or on a nice bike, because after all, anyone riding above z2 at this time of year is a chopper and will be burnt out by May. Then in Dec you'll start the intensity, brag about how you got in 3 hours before xmas dinner, and how its the lightest you've ever been despite the fact you've not even been above sweetspot yet - its still too early, Perfs is only weeks away, but you need to get that peak right - mid Jan now, you'll dust the race bike down, make some quip about glueing new tubs, and how you're super stoked to ride for xyz shop team (but think you're Sagan in your own head), get those vo2 max intervals going, add that last minute magic to the huge base you've built (and told everyone about ad infinitum) - you'll get back on the race bike for a pre-race tune up (call the ride, "good to be back" on Strava). Ride the race get spat and then blame last minute illness, but because you didn't overdo it in December and you'd NEVER do winter series racing, you'll still be there late season when that CHOPPER who won the race you got dropped from is burned out by July (he'll still beat you in September, you know that deep down) - but what does that matter? He's riding a bike with Shimano, everyone knows they make fishing gear, pah, CHOPPER. You'll get 29 points that season, thus missing 2nd cat for the 3rd year running - but you'll do the same again next winter, as its the way its always been done.
Edited by okgo on Sunday 6th November 18:59
Did I hit a nerve there, OKGO 
I'm not swapping to winter wheels because I'm dialling my training down or anything remotely like that, it's because, in general, the weather will be turning a bit rubbish and I want to save my rim surfaces from wearing away on my decent wheels, I also don't like changing innertubes at the best of times, so when the weather is cold I'd rather run a tyre that's less likely to puncture, plus...it always feels nice in the spring to put the nicer wheels back on even if it doesn't make me faster.
So the main reasons are for puncture resistance and to save the wheels a bit I appreciate what you're saying about a dry day in January being the same as a dry day in the summer, but if I get a puncture in January and I'm freezing cold, it's far less appealing changing a tube than in the summer, especially as I suffer from Reynauds.
But I do like your post, tickled me
I'm not swapping to winter wheels because I'm dialling my training down or anything remotely like that, it's because, in general, the weather will be turning a bit rubbish and I want to save my rim surfaces from wearing away on my decent wheels, I also don't like changing innertubes at the best of times, so when the weather is cold I'd rather run a tyre that's less likely to puncture, plus...it always feels nice in the spring to put the nicer wheels back on even if it doesn't make me faster.
So the main reasons are for puncture resistance and to save the wheels a bit
I appreciate what you're saying about a dry day in January being the same as a dry day in the summer, but if I get a puncture in January and I'm freezing cold, it's far less appealing changing a tube than in the summer, especially as I suffer from Reynauds.But I do like your post, tickled me
E65Ross said:
Did I hit a nerve there, OKGO
I'm not swapping to winter wheels because I'm dialling my training down or anything remotely like that, it's because, in general, the weather will be turning a bit rubbish and I want to save my rim surfaces from wearing away on my decent wheels, I also don't like changing innertubes at the best of times, so when the weather is cold I'd rather run a tyre that's less likely to puncture, plus...it always feels nice in the spring to put the nicer wheels back on even if it doesn't make me faster.
So the main reasons are for puncture resistance and to save the wheels a bit I appreciate what you're saying about a dry day in January being the same as a dry day in the summer, but if I get a puncture in January and I'm freezing cold, it's far less appealing changing a tube than in the summer, especially as I suffer from Reynauds.
But I do like your post, tickled me
Nah, just a bit of banter, the campag thread was starting to get a bit 'Rouleur' for my liking.I'm not swapping to winter wheels because I'm dialling my training down or anything remotely like that, it's because, in general, the weather will be turning a bit rubbish and I want to save my rim surfaces from wearing away on my decent wheels, I also don't like changing innertubes at the best of times, so when the weather is cold I'd rather run a tyre that's less likely to puncture, plus...it always feels nice in the spring to put the nicer wheels back on even if it doesn't make me faster.
So the main reasons are for puncture resistance and to save the wheels a bit
I appreciate what you're saying about a dry day in January being the same as a dry day in the summer, but if I get a puncture in January and I'm freezing cold, it's far less appealing changing a tube than in the summer, especially as I suffer from Reynauds.But I do like your post, tickled me
I get it, swap now, I generally ride the same wheels most of the year (wen not racing) and just put more heavy duty tyres on for winter.
I've never had "winter wheels" so it doesn't really worry me.
Most years my tyres will tell me when they want swapping - usually by dumping all of their air on a freezing cold winter's evening ride, leaving me on the verge of tears at the side of the road with fingers close to frostbite, re-fitting a tube and tyre for the third time because it's a bh to get on the rim and I've pinched the tube with tyre levers yet again.
Seriously, my wheels don't seem to suffer any more in winter than in summer. A pot of cheap wet wipes (or alcohol wipes) to keep the rims clean, and keep the surface of the pads free from swarf. Then tougher tyres when I feel I need them.
I recommissioned an old steel bike as a "winter" bike this last year or so, but again, like okgo said, it's not really about it being 'winter' or swapping at a given (entirely arbitrary) date. I'll swap between bikes all year, because the steel one has full length mudguards and SPD (MTB) pedals that allow me to ride in my North Wave boots when the weather is foul or there's surface water hanging about to get flicked up as spray.
This year my "winter" bike was wrecked on a long ride in June, rear mech into spokes and the frame bent all out of shape, so that conundrum of which bike to take out won't trouble me this year. If I ride roads it'll be "best bike or no bike". As it goes,though, I've hardly ridden on roads at all since August, as I've become obsessed with my MTB for the time being...
Most years my tyres will tell me when they want swapping - usually by dumping all of their air on a freezing cold winter's evening ride, leaving me on the verge of tears at the side of the road with fingers close to frostbite, re-fitting a tube and tyre for the third time because it's a b
h to get on the rim and I've pinched the tube with tyre levers yet again.Seriously, my wheels don't seem to suffer any more in winter than in summer. A pot of cheap wet wipes (or alcohol wipes) to keep the rims clean, and keep the surface of the pads free from swarf. Then tougher tyres when I feel I need them.
I recommissioned an old steel bike as a "winter" bike this last year or so, but again, like okgo said, it's not really about it being 'winter' or swapping at a given (entirely arbitrary) date. I'll swap between bikes all year, because the steel one has full length mudguards and SPD (MTB) pedals that allow me to ride in my North Wave boots when the weather is foul or there's surface water hanging about to get flicked up as spray.
This year my "winter" bike was wrecked on a long ride in June, rear mech into spokes and the frame bent all out of shape, so that conundrum of which bike to take out won't trouble me this year. If I ride roads it'll be "best bike or no bike". As it goes,though, I've hardly ridden on roads at all since August, as I've become obsessed with my MTB for the time being...
yellowjack said:
I've never had "winter wheels" so it doesn't really worry me.
Most years my tyres will tell me when they want swapping - usually by dumping all of their air on a freezing cold winter's evening ride, leaving me on the verge of tears at the side of the road with fingers close to frostbite, re-fitting a tube and tyre for the third time because it's a bh to get on the rim and I've pinched the tube with tyre levers yet again.
exactly the situation I want to avoidMost years my tyres will tell me when they want swapping - usually by dumping all of their air on a freezing cold winter's evening ride, leaving me on the verge of tears at the side of the road with fingers close to frostbite, re-fitting a tube and tyre for the third time because it's a b
h to get on the rim and I've pinched the tube with tyre levers yet again.okgo said:
Nah, just a bit of banter, the campag thread was starting to get a bit 'Rouleur' for my liking.
I get it, swap now, I generally ride the same wheels most of the year (wen not racing) and just put more heavy duty tyres on for winter.
Got passed by a determined Cat6 commuter racer this morning while taking in the lovely fall scenery, and I thought of you. I get it, swap now, I generally ride the same wheels most of the year (wen not racing) and just put more heavy duty tyres on for winter.
Pro tip: once you realize that you suck at racing (like 99% of the population), you will discover that cycling exists primarly to be enjoyed.
scherzkeks said:
Got passed by a determined Cat6 commuter racer this morning while taking in the lovely fall scenery, and I thought of you.
Pro tip: once you realize that you suck at racing (like 99% of the population), you will discover that cycling exists primarly to be enjoyed.
Luckily I don't suck too much at it then, isn't it, and I enjoy it at times.Pro tip: once you realize that you suck at racing (like 99% of the population), you will discover that cycling exists primarly to be enjoyed.
But if you wanna hate people riding quicker than you because its not 'about racing on the commute' then go ahead, I'm sure the other bloke was just cruising anyway.
Edited by okgo on Monday 7th November 09:36
My commuter bike takes up winter bike duty aswel so I guess I keep the same wheels on for winter, they are cheaper 105 hubs with Mavic something or other rims though.
Once those rims are done I'll switch to hard anodised Archeypes.
I've not got what most would consider nice wheels on my two other bikes though, i.e. no deep carbon, just quality handbuilts with decent rims, spokes and hubs - DT240 with Archetypes and CX-Ray.
Once those rims are done I'll switch to hard anodised Archeypes.
I've not got what most would consider nice wheels on my two other bikes though, i.e. no deep carbon, just quality handbuilts with decent rims, spokes and hubs - DT240 with Archetypes and CX-Ray.
okgo said:
Luckily I don't suck too much at it then, isn't it,
Oh? What professional team are you with/were you with?Edited by okgo on Monday 7th November 09:36
Anything else is just weekend warrior/passing-the-time s
te. Which is why you are on message boards bragging about how fast you are. Classic Cat 6er. 
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