Power meter for Shimano 105 34t 165mm crank
Discussion
Hi all,
What power meters are compatible with a 105 34t 165mm crankset? I was looking at a Powertap C1 however apparently they're only compatible with a minimum of 36t
(would my front derailleur and shifters allow for 36t instead of 34t?)
Alternatively are any crank based systems compatible with HollowTech bottom bearings?
Definitely not interested in a left hand crank power meter after reading about their L/R balance issues!
What power meters are compatible with a 105 34t 165mm crankset? I was looking at a Powertap C1 however apparently they're only compatible with a minimum of 36t
(would my front derailleur and shifters allow for 36t instead of 34t?)Alternatively are any crank based systems compatible with HollowTech bottom bearings?
Definitely not interested in a left hand crank power meter after reading about their L/R balance issues!
Edited by BeirutTaxi on Saturday 26th November 16:43
BeirutTaxi said:
Thank you for taking the time to reply 
I take it that there are no tolerances issues with a Shimano hollowtech BB. For example I've found out before that FSA cranksets don't always fit HollowTech even though they 'should'.
Will probably go with a Quark system.
Kind regards,
Matt
FSA I think have their own BB system no?I take it that there are no tolerances issues with a Shimano hollowtech BB. For example I've found out before that FSA cranksets don't always fit HollowTech even though they 'should'.
Will probably go with a Quark system.
Kind regards,
Matt
Anyway, before you buy, just make sure you get the right one, but given most of the world ride shimano bikes, its generally pretty simple to find the right meter. If you buty from cyclepowermeters website, give them a call, ask for Bob or Matt, they'll sort you out.
Few slight technical corrections:
No, quarq, p2m definitely do not make powermeters that fit a shimano hollowtech bottom bracket. (not 100% on SRM or infocrank). What they do make are powermeters that will fit in a bottom bracket that you can (most likely) fit in place of the shimano hollowtech bottom bracket.
For instance quark are GXP bottom brackets (or BB30, but as you have a 24mm shimano crank, that's unlikely to help). 99.9% of cases you can just swap a suitable GXP bottom bracket for the shimano one and put a quarq in. Helps to know what kind of bottom bracket your frame takes (threaded cups, pushfit etc).
FSA/Shimano is an interesting compatibility. Both are nominally 24mm, but shimano is 24mm plus some tolerance, and FSA is 24mm minus some tolerance. So they don't always play well together. Again FSA make bottom brackets that are interchangeable with shimano ones, but they tend to be made of cheese, and I could see little point in going that route!
Yes, your current setup will handle a 36t inner chainring fine. You'll need to re-set up the front mech, but that's all. The question you have to ask is whether you want to loose the 2 teeth of gearing at the bottom end.
Absolutely talk to cyclepowermeters. Good guys. Think that covers it.
No, quarq, p2m definitely do not make powermeters that fit a shimano hollowtech bottom bracket. (not 100% on SRM or infocrank). What they do make are powermeters that will fit in a bottom bracket that you can (most likely) fit in place of the shimano hollowtech bottom bracket.
For instance quark are GXP bottom brackets (or BB30, but as you have a 24mm shimano crank, that's unlikely to help). 99.9% of cases you can just swap a suitable GXP bottom bracket for the shimano one and put a quarq in. Helps to know what kind of bottom bracket your frame takes (threaded cups, pushfit etc).
FSA/Shimano is an interesting compatibility. Both are nominally 24mm, but shimano is 24mm plus some tolerance, and FSA is 24mm minus some tolerance. So they don't always play well together. Again FSA make bottom brackets that are interchangeable with shimano ones, but they tend to be made of cheese, and I could see little point in going that route!
Yes, your current setup will handle a 36t inner chainring fine. You'll need to re-set up the front mech, but that's all. The question you have to ask is whether you want to loose the 2 teeth of gearing at the bottom end.
Absolutely talk to cyclepowermeters. Good guys. Think that covers it.
upsidedownmark said:
Oh, might have missed that - was sure they didn't do a direct fit shimano one. Possibly a good call that then.
Either way changing a BB is not massively expensive or complicated (dead cheap if it's threaded). Working out the various compatibilty can be a bit of a headache.
Yes I have the Rotor 3D24 and swap it between 3 bikes as and when I need them, 5 min job. Either way changing a BB is not massively expensive or complicated (dead cheap if it's threaded). Working out the various compatibilty can be a bit of a headache.
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