Upgrading to Di2 - how easy/difficult?
Discussion
As above, vastly depends on the frame.
Did it (interally) on a P2 which was never designed for it. Pig awful job, involved the use of a dremel. Great to have, but I wish I'd just bought a new frame!
Did it on a much more recent S2 which was designed for it. Should've taken a couple of hours (If I hadn't had to turn the garage upside down looking for half the stuff I hid there 3 months ago).
- Mech's bolt on, easy. You'll need to split the chain.
- Threading wires minor faff.
- Remember if it's a road bike you're changing the brake/shift levers, that means unthreading the cables for the brakes, and unwrapping the bar tape to the levers at least; perhaps/ideally re-wrapping the bars completely.
- Potentially you need to figure out where to hide the battery - again not hard but worth thinking about. For some reason cervelo persist in using the external variety on the S series which looks as ugly as hell.. so hid it inside the downtube.
- setup requires the ability to read instructions, a bit of patience and watching your fingers (particularly the front mech).
- Make sure you get the little insertion/removal tool (should come with the shifters), saves a lot of swearing.
Basically though, it is as simple as you say.
Did it (interally) on a P2 which was never designed for it. Pig awful job, involved the use of a dremel. Great to have, but I wish I'd just bought a new frame!
Did it on a much more recent S2 which was designed for it. Should've taken a couple of hours (If I hadn't had to turn the garage upside down looking for half the stuff I hid there 3 months ago).
- Mech's bolt on, easy. You'll need to split the chain.
- Threading wires minor faff.
- Remember if it's a road bike you're changing the brake/shift levers, that means unthreading the cables for the brakes, and unwrapping the bar tape to the levers at least; perhaps/ideally re-wrapping the bars completely.
- Potentially you need to figure out where to hide the battery - again not hard but worth thinking about. For some reason cervelo persist in using the external variety on the S series which looks as ugly as hell.. so hid it inside the downtube.
- setup requires the ability to read instructions, a bit of patience and watching your fingers (particularly the front mech).
- Make sure you get the little insertion/removal tool (should come with the shifters), saves a lot of swearing.
Basically though, it is as simple as you say.
Neil_Sc said:
Out of interest, where are you all buying the Di2 groupset? I'm looking at buying the disc crankset in the next month or so and £1200 seems to be the going rate.
Not sure I'm following your question here.... what do you mean when you refer to something as "the disc crankset"?Edited by Neil_Sc on Tuesday 7th February 19:23
When I'm referring to something as Di2 I'm referring to Shimanos push button operated and electronically driven front and rear Derailleur.
Possibly the disc compatible (hydro levers) version in either a full groupset or gearkit (which omits the crank, brakes and cassette)
In answer to that question 1200 seems over-priced. Usual suspects; wiggle, chain reaction, merlin; 900ish for a full groupset, less for the gearkit.
I also found it a worthwhile chunk cheaper for me to buy the parts individually (including some parts coming from CRC and some from wiggle), but I didn't want the full kit. YMMV.
In answer to that question 1200 seems over-priced. Usual suspects; wiggle, chain reaction, merlin; 900ish for a full groupset, less for the gearkit.
I also found it a worthwhile chunk cheaper for me to buy the parts individually (including some parts coming from CRC and some from wiggle), but I didn't want the full kit. YMMV.
upsidedownmark said:
As above, vastly depends on the frame.
Did it (interally) on a P2 which was never designed for it. Pig awful job, involved the use of a dremel. Great to have, but I wish I'd just bought a new frame!
Did it on a much more recent S2 which was designed for it. Should've taken a couple of hours (If I hadn't had to turn the garage upside down looking for half the stuff I hid there 3 months ago).
- Mech's bolt on, easy. You'll need to split the chain.
- Threading wires minor faff.
- Remember if it's a road bike you're changing the brake/shift levers, that means unthreading the cables for the brakes, and unwrapping the bar tape to the levers at least; perhaps/ideally re-wrapping the bars completely.
- Potentially you need to figure out where to hide the battery - again not hard but worth thinking about. For some reason cervelo persist in using the external variety on the S series which looks as ugly as hell.. so hid it inside the downtube.
- setup requires the ability to read instructions, a bit of patience and watching your fingers (particularly the front mech).
- Make sure you get the little insertion/removal tool (should come with the shifters), saves a lot of swearing.
Basically though, it is as simple as you say.
What age S2? Mine's a 2011 and I've read that they were supplied with "drill here" stickers on them so that they could be retro-fitted with Di2, but mine doesn't have any stickers. Would this prove to be a fool's errand?Did it (interally) on a P2 which was never designed for it. Pig awful job, involved the use of a dremel. Great to have, but I wish I'd just bought a new frame!
Did it on a much more recent S2 which was designed for it. Should've taken a couple of hours (If I hadn't had to turn the garage upside down looking for half the stuff I hid there 3 months ago).
- Mech's bolt on, easy. You'll need to split the chain.
- Threading wires minor faff.
- Remember if it's a road bike you're changing the brake/shift levers, that means unthreading the cables for the brakes, and unwrapping the bar tape to the levers at least; perhaps/ideally re-wrapping the bars completely.
- Potentially you need to figure out where to hide the battery - again not hard but worth thinking about. For some reason cervelo persist in using the external variety on the S series which looks as ugly as hell.. so hid it inside the downtube.
- setup requires the ability to read instructions, a bit of patience and watching your fingers (particularly the front mech).
- Make sure you get the little insertion/removal tool (should come with the shifters), saves a lot of swearing.
Basically though, it is as simple as you say.
2015. IMHO.. yes. My P2 is 2012, I would assume the construction to be similar. There's no big opening under the BB to thread everything. The area around the BB 'tube' is not simply an open cavity and is webbed in such a way that getting wires into the chainstay and up the seat tube is a nightmare.. Unless you're massively attached to the bike I don't reckon it's worth it.
Neil_Sc said:
Sorry about the confusion, I had meant to say Di2 disc groupset. Doesn't appear to be sold as widely as the v brake groupset which seems to be around £900.
Personally on my road bike i've never felt as if i didn't have enough stopping power and i did live in the Alps for 4 years so don't feel the need to go to disc brakes on a road bike.. With your question i wouldn't have thought there would be much difference in running cabled or hydraulic pipes from levers to calipers whether they're with a Di2 or mechanical groupset.
I just upgraded a bike from Tiagra to 105 and I noticed that Shimano use basically the same bracket for the levers I took the levers off without touching the bar tape very easy.
If you check and there not the same then you are no worse off but it's a job that I never seem to do as well the originals.
If you check and there not the same then you are no worse off but it's a job that I never seem to do as well the originals.
leyorkie said:
I just upgraded a bike from Tiagra to 105 and I noticed that Shimano use basically the same bracket for the levers I took the levers off without touching the bar tape very easy.
If you check and there not the same then you are no worse off but it's a job that I never seem to do as well the originals.
Agreed, I've done lever swaps a few times and only had to remove bar tape when swapping brands, or from shifters with side-exit gear cables to ones which run under the tape. Just make sure the cable outer is tightly placed where it needs to go. If you check and there not the same then you are no worse off but it's a job that I never seem to do as well the originals.
Having just typed that though, Di2 will mean replacing cables with wires, so the bar tape will all have to come off here!
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