New Canyon Endurace - love it but....
Discussion
Are you weighing the bike using accurate scales, or just doing the moron test and picking it up and thinking 'That feels heavy'?. Canyon will have taken a measurement sans pedals and used scales.
It feels different because you've not set it up correctly, and because it's you and nothing is ever right.
I've had numerous bikes, haven't weighed one, ever.
It feels different because you've not set it up correctly, and because it's you and nothing is ever right.
I've had numerous bikes, haven't weighed one, ever.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Would you not simply take the key dimensions from your "fit" / old bike that you know result in your being comfortable, and set the new bike up to match. If that means a shorter stem then so be it. Change the stem so they are both the same and then see how it feels to ride.Unless using power I would guess its hard to accurately compare effort levels on new vs old due to the potential "new bike" effect.
When I changed bikes last the new one was something like 6.8kg with pedals which was about 3.5kg lighter than the old one. Its fair to say the old stripped frame isn't going get built up any time soon. I may actually fully strip it down and then start ebaying for next winter.
lol.
Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.
Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.
Seriously you need stats, not hot air
Firstly weigh the bikes , don't just amble on about weight
Secondly how do the stats riding compare? All this b
ks about ample spare power, how do stats compare?
I rode today on my alu road bike, felt a touch quicker than my steel gravel bike, when I look at Strava I was miles quicker , but only "felt" slightly quicker
Thirdly get someone else to triple check the bike measures up to your old Bianchi
Forth just ride, don't over analyse everything, as long as it doesn't hurt and you are comfortable stop worrying
Firstly weigh the bikes , don't just amble on about weight
Secondly how do the stats riding compare? All this b
ks about ample spare power, how do stats compare?I rode today on my alu road bike, felt a touch quicker than my steel gravel bike, when I look at Strava I was miles quicker , but only "felt" slightly quicker
Thirdly get someone else to triple check the bike measures up to your old Bianchi
Forth just ride, don't over analyse everything, as long as it doesn't hurt and you are comfortable stop worrying
A couple of things to try:
Put your fitted bike side by side, and get the bottom brackets lined up. If they're not the same height, put something underneath both wheels when adjusting the lower one.
If your pedal spindles are lined up too, then the crank arms are the same length, which will rule another thing out.
Next, adjust your saddle using your best guess of where you actually park your arse, if it's not the same saddle. Finally, get your handlebars as close as possible to matching, perhaps with the use of a different stem, and moving the spacers.
Turn it upside down, and spin the wheels, you may find they're a bit tight, being new, or that the rest of the drive train hasn't bedded in properly.
Finally, look to the tyres, I would expect the new bike to be on Conti GP4000? How do these compare to what your old bike is on? Are the pressures appropriate?
Also, speed isn't everything. (It's the only thing.)
Put your fitted bike side by side, and get the bottom brackets lined up. If they're not the same height, put something underneath both wheels when adjusting the lower one.
If your pedal spindles are lined up too, then the crank arms are the same length, which will rule another thing out.
Next, adjust your saddle using your best guess of where you actually park your arse, if it's not the same saddle. Finally, get your handlebars as close as possible to matching, perhaps with the use of a different stem, and moving the spacers.
Turn it upside down, and spin the wheels, you may find they're a bit tight, being new, or that the rest of the drive train hasn't bedded in properly.
Finally, look to the tyres, I would expect the new bike to be on Conti GP4000? How do these compare to what your old bike is on? Are the pressures appropriate?
Also, speed isn't everything. (It's the only thing.)
okgo said:
lol.
Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.
Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.
Like others have said, sort your fit out, the bike is fine and you've got Conti GP4000SIIs on it (I think) so they're not going to be holding you back. Why are you comparing it to your summer bike?
If that is genuinely where you saddle has been recommended to be set, via knee over pedal then you need an inline seat post for a starter. You shouldn't be running them that far forward on the rails.
Also, your saddle height appears to be different - higher on the Canyon, are the cranks the same length? I measured the top of saddle to centre of BB on the computer screen and there is a difference, are you sure it's the same?
It's hard to tell but saddle to bar drop looks bigger on the Canyon too.
Also, your saddle height appears to be different - higher on the Canyon, are the cranks the same length? I measured the top of saddle to centre of BB on the computer screen and there is a difference, are you sure it's the same?
It's hard to tell but saddle to bar drop looks bigger on the Canyon too.
Edited by Matt_N on Wednesday 15th March 12:25
Just about to get an Endurance 9.0. Looking at the new CF 9.0 SL or the older framed CF 9.0 Di2.
Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
Im on an aluminum Fuji at the moment so both will be a lot lighter. I want something to do long rides on with maximum comfort.
Should I go for Di2? a mate has gone back to mechanical due to gears sticking.
What do people think?
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