Wheels (again - sorry..) what to do next..
Discussion
So, a shade under 3 years ago I built some h plus son archetypes on novatec hubs. All has been mostly well, bearings in the 482SB-SL haven't been the most reliable, but generally good. Not sure
10-12k (kms) later, I broke a (stuck) nipple.. finished up un-building the entire rear. Now.. there's a fair bit of wear on the rim, definite dish in the brake track. wear indicator still shows - just, and I don't have the faclilities to measure, but I'd say there's not too many miles left in the rim. They're also shedding a *lot* of metal filings into the pads. Urgh. Probably not worth rebuilding with that rim then (and I should probably re-rim the front too)
So do I:
Rebuild both on new rims. Think I quite fancy the mid-grey hard anodised (on a gloss black S2 with blue writing). It's a faff.. and I'm not super happy with the longevity / way they're shedding alu bits. My feeling is that the rim alloy is a bit soft.. Rims are 50-60 ea.
Just buy something ready built (but I don't want to spend a lot). Fulcrum 5's? Campag Zondas? Actually have both sitting at home as a 'can always return' option, but neither are lighting my fire.
I'm generaly anti cup and cone bearings; at least when cartridge types crap themselves they don't destroy the hub and can be replaced. zonda spoke system looks a bit silly to me, but..
At this point, pretty over it and just want a nice sorted bike to ride
10-12k (kms) later, I broke a (stuck) nipple.. finished up un-building the entire rear. Now.. there's a fair bit of wear on the rim, definite dish in the brake track. wear indicator still shows - just, and I don't have the faclilities to measure, but I'd say there's not too many miles left in the rim. They're also shedding a *lot* of metal filings into the pads. Urgh. Probably not worth rebuilding with that rim then (and I should probably re-rim the front too)
So do I:
Rebuild both on new rims. Think I quite fancy the mid-grey hard anodised (on a gloss black S2 with blue writing). It's a faff.. and I'm not super happy with the longevity / way they're shedding alu bits. My feeling is that the rim alloy is a bit soft.. Rims are 50-60 ea.
Just buy something ready built (but I don't want to spend a lot). Fulcrum 5's? Campag Zondas? Actually have both sitting at home as a 'can always return' option, but neither are lighting my fire.
I'm generaly anti cup and cone bearings; at least when cartridge types crap themselves they don't destroy the hub and can be replaced. zonda spoke system looks a bit silly to me, but..
At this point, pretty over it and just want a nice sorted bike to ride
Edited by upsidedownmark on Friday 4th August 13:43
10-12k miles from a rim is pretty good going IMO and inline with what I would expect?
Archetypes have a 1.4mm thick brake track so pretty inline with most rims.
I've got 2 wheelsets built up on Archetypes, they're a nice rim, on the heavy side but nice and wide and pretty strong.
The hard anodised should last a bit longer, mechanic at my LBS has been running them on his bike for a good 3 years now, rides in all conditions, gravel roads etc.
I guess you could go for a new set of rims, say the new Open Pro but then you'd probably need to change spokes and nipples too.
Archetypes have a 1.4mm thick brake track so pretty inline with most rims.
I've got 2 wheelsets built up on Archetypes, they're a nice rim, on the heavy side but nice and wide and pretty strong.
The hard anodised should last a bit longer, mechanic at my LBS has been running them on his bike for a good 3 years now, rides in all conditions, gravel roads etc.
I guess you could go for a new set of rims, say the new Open Pro but then you'd probably need to change spokes and nipples too.
If i had the ZOndas ordered, id just stick them on and get out riding : job jobbed
I have ventos , the cheaper model and hammered them all winter and when the bearings got grizzly I just sprayed some lithium grease and they are back running smooth
Only other issue I had was the bearing bolt loosened off on a nasty badly surfaced road, its done it a few times, so you end up with play in the wheel. Its easy enough to tigten it up , you need a 2mm allen key. However its easy for the bolt to get caked in dirt and grime so when I had to do it mid ride in the Welsh rain it would be very easy to round off the bolt. Somthing to watch out for, not sure if it even effects Zondas or its me being a heavy handed idiot
Although I had Fulcrim 5s (similiar wheel again) and never had the above issue, but never rode them through winter
I have ventos , the cheaper model and hammered them all winter and when the bearings got grizzly I just sprayed some lithium grease and they are back running smooth
Only other issue I had was the bearing bolt loosened off on a nasty badly surfaced road, its done it a few times, so you end up with play in the wheel. Its easy enough to tigten it up , you need a 2mm allen key. However its easy for the bolt to get caked in dirt and grime so when I had to do it mid ride in the Welsh rain it would be very easy to round off the bolt. Somthing to watch out for, not sure if it even effects Zondas or its me being a heavy handed idiot
Although I had Fulcrim 5s (similiar wheel again) and never had the above issue, but never rode them through winter
Hmm.. maybe. K's not miles.. I guess I'd be less bothered if they'd straight worn out, but the way they're putting a lot of 1-2mm long bits of metal in the pads is annoying me. Silly maybe, but the crappy old R500's never did that. Just seems like there's always something.. although the hub is probably most to blame for that.
Thinking a factory rim might do better in the fit and forget stakes - Gonna ride the g/f's ksyriums this weekend see what they're like.. but I don't want to spend that kind of money, inclined to think they're expensive for what they are..
Thinking a factory rim might do better in the fit and forget stakes - Gonna ride the g/f's ksyriums this weekend see what they're like.. but I don't want to spend that kind of money, inclined to think they're expensive for what they are..
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