How often do you change your gear cables?
Discussion
Just wondering really....I seem to get issues with my gearing (10 speed 105) quite a lot, and having new cables always rectifies the problem. I had them done back in December last year, and then again in June, and the difference was really quite significant; this makes me wonder that changing every 6 months or so may not be enough for the set up.
The bike shop has told me that the newer 11 speed systems are much better for cable routing and are less susceptible to problems.
For reference, I tend to cycle approx 9-10 hours per week, although at least 2 of those are on the turbo trainer, almost always in ERG mode (so no gear changing).
Cheers
The bike shop has told me that the newer 11 speed systems are much better for cable routing and are less susceptible to problems.
For reference, I tend to cycle approx 9-10 hours per week, although at least 2 of those are on the turbo trainer, almost always in ERG mode (so no gear changing).
Cheers
I've got bikes here with cables from new.
My main ride is around 8 hours per week road and that's over 2 years old and still good.
My mountain bike is 4 years old with around 3 hours per week and that's still good.
However they are adjusted when needed usually at the first sign of anything other than smooth changes.
I can't help thinking that you are benefiting from the adjustment when you have the cables changed.
My main ride is around 8 hours per week road and that's over 2 years old and still good.
My mountain bike is 4 years old with around 3 hours per week and that's still good.
However they are adjusted when needed usually at the first sign of anything other than smooth changes.
I can't help thinking that you are benefiting from the adjustment when you have the cables changed.
still got the original cables on my cannondale with 105, it's nearly 3 years old and shifts perfectly. Same with my 4 year old Trek full suspension mtb that's been caked in all sorts of crap.
I wonder if there's an issue with the mech, iirc there's a tension adjustment that affects how the mech handles the extremes of the block? Hard to tell with getting hands on though. Always take bike shops opinions with a pinch of salt as they make a lot more money off selling a whole new group set than setting it all up perfectly.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.h...
I wonder if there's an issue with the mech, iirc there's a tension adjustment that affects how the mech handles the extremes of the block? Hard to tell with getting hands on though. Always take bike shops opinions with a pinch of salt as they make a lot more money off selling a whole new group set than setting it all up perfectly.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.h...
E65Ross said:
Definitely not just a case of adjustment.....because you find that nearer the end of the block the bike will struggle to downshift as well as struggling to upshift....
Sounds like setup - I wonder if they're setting up right at the end of the barrel adjuster?One of my bikes is 10, the other 11. The latter is lighter on shifting, but that's about it. I service/set up my own, ride all year round about the same weekly. I only changed the cables after a couple of years due to fraying on the ends when the ferrule became dislodged, shifting was still fine.
E65Ross said:
Definitely not just a case of adjustment.....because you find that nearer the end of the block the bike will struggle to downshift as well as struggling to upshift....
Only a suggestion, as I can't see your bike, but I have worked on a few in my time.....Basically, it sounds like friction somewhere between shifter and derailleur.
It could be inherent in the routing of your particular frame (I know some internal cable routing on certain carbon frames has caused problems of this sort). We had a problem like this on a whole batch of bikes, and had to re-route the cables externally to sort it out.
Or it could be a rough edge on some of your outer cabling (n.b. check both ends of any external cable, and also check the outer cabling under your bar tape where it enters the shifter). If you find an jagged or squeezed cut in your outer, then that could be causing the problem.
New inner cable has a slight lubricant in it. I guess this could be why it seems better with a new inner. Once this dries off, whatever is causing the friction overcomes the tension between shifter and derailleur.
When I had 8 speed 105, the cables lasted ages, with no indexing problems. I've found the 10 speed 105 much more susceptible to indexing trouble, and need to keep the cables clean and well lubricated, also any misalignment of the rear mech leads to more indexing pain. A shame that two of my 'cross bikes have 105 rear mechs...
9,000 miles on my road bike, and 4,100 miles on my MTB and (touches wood) so far no indication that I need to think about changing them.
I've got some older bikes too, with original cables on them. I just unclip them from the stops and slide the outer sleeves up and down with some GT85 to clean them, then lube them up and it usually sorts them out.
I've got some older bikes too, with original cables on them. I just unclip them from the stops and slide the outer sleeves up and down with some GT85 to clean them, then lube them up and it usually sorts them out.
After many thousand KM on a commuter rig I switched to Jagwire RoadPro cables and outers.
They last for ages - in fact, the only bit I ever change is the last loop of outer to the rear dérailleur. I leave the cable long and seal it with hot glue rather than a crimp, it's easy to peel off and I can then slide off the outers and clean the whole lot. Sounds a bit of a faff but in reality it's easy. Prior to reinstallation I snip off 10mm of cable to get a nice 'clean end' to thread it all back on.
They last for ages - in fact, the only bit I ever change is the last loop of outer to the rear dérailleur. I leave the cable long and seal it with hot glue rather than a crimp, it's easy to peel off and I can then slide off the outers and clean the whole lot. Sounds a bit of a faff but in reality it's easy. Prior to reinstallation I snip off 10mm of cable to get a nice 'clean end' to thread it all back on.
Probably every 12 months, whether they need them or not. I've had new cables break after 5 months (on a new bike) because of DA9000 poor cable routing design ... was on a 96 mile ride, had ridden up a 33% (Rosedale Chimney) and was luckily only 1 mile from home when it happened on the rear mech.
I'm in the every 6 months camp. They're so cheap that they are basically free, and they always give the bike that new feeling. New cassette and chain once a year too. 10 speed is so relatively inexpensive that there is no point in not replacing the stuff.
I always find that you think "these don't need changing" but then the feeling of the replacements afterwards is "I should have done this a long time ago"!
I always find that you think "these don't need changing" but then the feeling of the replacements afterwards is "I should have done this a long time ago"!
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