Exposure light mount for aero bars
Discussion
As a few of you know....I'm looking into getting a Canyon Aeroad once I move house. Looking at the bars H11 cockpit....) they aren't round....so how does this work with light mounts? I've currently got an exposure race, but I'm not sure if the mount would work?
Same applies for the seat post too, as it's not round? Are there special adapters or something? I know they do an alternate Garmin mount, was wondering if there was the same for Exposure lights.
Cheers
Same applies for the seat post too, as it's not round? Are there special adapters or something? I know they do an alternate Garmin mount, was wondering if there was the same for Exposure lights.
Cheers
Following my experience with the garmin mount I'd be seriously worried about adding more weight on the end of a fairly long lever to that system. If you ever have a look at what they have done for the garmin mount its seriously poor engineering.
Essentially they have cut two small holes in the wall of the bars, pressed in a small female screw grub x 2 and this is then what you screw the mount into. However because it is not a recess that they have cut (which would be far superior as you could fill it with epoxy) and just a hole, the moment they come loose (which mine did) its basically a new set of bars as nothing will solve it. If you look at how far the gamin is from those two tiny (M3 screws, just two is mental) holes, there is a large amount of leverage on them, adding an Exposure light, which are not light, even the small ones, is going to end badly IMO.
And when you do need that new set of bars, Canyon are utterly useless staffed by kids, so it will take about a month without the bike. Then when you get it back, it will need totally stripping down and installing properly as their mechanics are utter s
t too.
With the rear light - https://www.evanscycles.com/exposure-flare-saddle-... - far superior to any of the other mounts
Essentially they have cut two small holes in the wall of the bars, pressed in a small female screw grub x 2 and this is then what you screw the mount into. However because it is not a recess that they have cut (which would be far superior as you could fill it with epoxy) and just a hole, the moment they come loose (which mine did) its basically a new set of bars as nothing will solve it. If you look at how far the gamin is from those two tiny (M3 screws, just two is mental) holes, there is a large amount of leverage on them, adding an Exposure light, which are not light, even the small ones, is going to end badly IMO.
And when you do need that new set of bars, Canyon are utterly useless staffed by kids, so it will take about a month without the bike. Then when you get it back, it will need totally stripping down and installing properly as their mechanics are utter s
t too.With the rear light - https://www.evanscycles.com/exposure-flare-saddle-... - far superior to any of the other mounts
Edited by okgo on Tuesday 3rd October 09:44
Matt_N said:
A good tip for aero posts is to use Sugru to mould something that your light bracket will better sit against.
Sorry for the late reply, thought I already had! This is a great tip.Is sugru easily removable, if you want it removed though? Last thing I want is a blob of what looks like blu-tak on my seat post

A lot of the rear light mounts for the aero bars use the saddle rails which isn't what I want because I want that for the use of a saddle bag!
Thanks
I have a couple of these: https://www.chilli-tech.com/bike-lights/helmet-led... (they were on a BOGOF deal at the time)
Rather than mount it on my helmet, I mount it vertically on my seat post. One bike it's round the other aero, and it sits well on both.
Rather than mount it on my helmet, I mount it vertically on my seat post. One bike it's round the other aero, and it sits well on both.
My mate has just bought one of these
http://exposurelights.com/bike/brackets-and-mounts...
would it fit underneath the bars like the Garmin?
http://exposurelights.com/bike/brackets-and-mounts...
would it fit underneath the bars like the Garmin?
Fluffsri said:
My mate has just bought one of these
http://exposurelights.com/bike/brackets-and-mounts...
would it fit underneath the bars like the Garmin?
No, because the stem is integrated into the bars (hence OKGO's post). I've found something which will work for the Garmin and front light and, having looked further into it, I think the sugru looks to be a great way forwards for the rear light!!http://exposurelights.com/bike/brackets-and-mounts...
would it fit underneath the bars like the Garmin?
Looks like really handy stuff to have around the house too
Just spoken to power2max asking which power meter I'd need so that is all sorted. I'm also going to make sure that it gets shipped with the latest Ultegra R8070 groupset. I won't be buying for a few months yet but I'm getting excited now.
Totted up what I need and it's going to be over £1k on top of the actual bike.....
Power meter around £750, I'll need 2 sets of 11-30T cassettes (I don't want 11-28T as I run 12-30T at the moment and want a 30T 1st gear as some of the hills here are around 20% and I need 1 for my Wahoo Kickr, I'll want a connex Wippermann chain link, a new rear light bracket and some sugru, a garmin edge and exposure front light mount, some SPD Ultegra pedals, 2 more bottle cages and some spare long valve innertubes.....after a bike fit it's going to be over £5k. Although my bike fitter wants to buy the original chainset so I should get about £150 back for that.
It will be very interesting to see how much faster I am on this bike. As I've said previously my current bike is 1 or 2 frame sizes too big. Despite shortening and flipping the stem, removing all the spacers etc the drop between the saddle and the bars is only 5mm! Whereas I'll want it 5-6cm! It's quite frustrating knowing I was sold the wrong bike; alas, I didn't know at the time!
Totted up what I need and it's going to be over £1k on top of the actual bike.....
Power meter around £750, I'll need 2 sets of 11-30T cassettes (I don't want 11-28T as I run 12-30T at the moment and want a 30T 1st gear as some of the hills here are around 20% and I need 1 for my Wahoo Kickr, I'll want a connex Wippermann chain link, a new rear light bracket and some sugru, a garmin edge and exposure front light mount, some SPD Ultegra pedals, 2 more bottle cages and some spare long valve innertubes.....after a bike fit it's going to be over £5k. Although my bike fitter wants to buy the original chainset so I should get about £150 back for that.
It will be very interesting to see how much faster I am on this bike. As I've said previously my current bike is 1 or 2 frame sizes too big. Despite shortening and flipping the stem, removing all the spacers etc the drop between the saddle and the bars is only 5mm! Whereas I'll want it 5-6cm! It's quite frustrating knowing I was sold the wrong bike; alas, I didn't know at the time!
Just ordered some sugru 
I always run 2 rear lights, one has to be mounted on the downward sloping tube of the frame going towards the QR skewer (not sure what that tube is called?!) and due to the shape of the mount it angles up a bit..... Which isn't ideal. I figured with a blob of sugru I can make that angle different so it's basically pointing at perpendicular to the road.
Thanks for the recommendation.

I always run 2 rear lights, one has to be mounted on the downward sloping tube of the frame going towards the QR skewer (not sure what that tube is called?!) and due to the shape of the mount it angles up a bit..... Which isn't ideal. I figured with a blob of sugru I can make that angle different so it's basically pointing at perpendicular to the road.
Thanks for the recommendation.
PorkRind said:
Matt_N said:
A good tip for aero posts is to use Sugru to mould something that your light bracket will better sit against.
that stuff is great, the cipo came with these real bad fitting inserts for the di2 wires, so made me some custom inserts with Sugru !
I use a Moon shield on the rear of my Aeroad and whilst the seat post isn't round it is at least flat on the back surface. So you can get it on here without too much issue...
I have a moon front light, but not having so much luck with the GoPro adaptor. So might have to get a new front Exposure light...
I have a moon front light, but not having so much luck with the GoPro adaptor. So might have to get a new front Exposure light...
okgo said:
I would seriously be careful with putting a light on the garmin mount, helmet mount or a direct bar mount of some sort far better IMO. As I say above, really bad engineering, and there is no fix. I bought the strongest epoxy resin out there and it still didn't work.
So what do you use for your exposure light? I use an Exposure Race which is not their heaviest light, but not their lightest either.....My old man owns an aerospace engineering firm, ages ago they had to use a special epoxy that was literally used to glue helicopter parts together. It took 48 hours to set but was insanely strong. I can't remember the exact figures but it's tensile strength was a LOT higher than the equivalent (for a given thickness) of steel!
Something that would definitely work would be pratley putty....but it's a bit permanent, and it'd look a bit naff!
E65Ross said:
So what do you use for your exposure light? I use an Exposure Race which is not their heaviest light, but not their lightest either.....
My old man owns an aerospace engineering firm, ages ago they had to use a special epoxy that was literally used to glue helicopter parts together. It took 48 hours to set but was insanely strong. I can't remember the exact figures but it's tensile strength was a LOT higher than the equivalent (for a given thickness) of steel!
Something that would definitely work would be pratley putty....but it's a bit permanent, and it'd look a bit naff!
I have another bike for using in the dark, I would probably use a helmet mount if I had to use the canyon.My old man owns an aerospace engineering firm, ages ago they had to use a special epoxy that was literally used to glue helicopter parts together. It took 48 hours to set but was insanely strong. I can't remember the exact figures but it's tensile strength was a LOT higher than the equivalent (for a given thickness) of steel!
Something that would definitely work would be pratley putty....but it's a bit permanent, and it'd look a bit naff!
The point isn't about the strength of the epoxy, its the contact area, its a f
king terrible design, I would LOVE to know what they were thinking of when they did it. Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



