What brake pads do I need (disk)?
Discussion
A few brake questions, ive had my first bike with disks for a year now and think I should change my pads.
1. What pads do I need to fit "trp hy/rd" calipers
2. Mainly road / commuting at the moment, but will be doing Ride London 100 + London to Brighton and London to Brighton off-road this year.
3. As a rule of thumb, how many miles should I replace the pads?
Any other brake tips would be appreciated!
1. What pads do I need to fit "trp hy/rd" calipers
2. Mainly road / commuting at the moment, but will be doing Ride London 100 + London to Brighton and London to Brighton off-road this year.
3. As a rule of thumb, how many miles should I replace the pads?
Any other brake tips would be appreciated!
You need these... https://www.evanscycles.com/fwe-shimano-deore-m515... ...or something similar. Many brands will produce a compatible pad, personally I just go into my local shop and ask Henry to look in the "magic box of brake pads" that is kept out the back in the workshop. He usually has exactly what I need.
These pads are 'Organic' (or 'Resin') and should do you OK for drier weather, Look for 'Sintered' (or 'Metallic') pads in the right size if you want a harder wearing pad through the grotty winter months.
Better explanation (possibly) here... https://www.merlincycles.com/blog/buyers-guide-to-...
Other than that? Always try to buy pads with new springs included. Always change the pads while there is still some friction material on the metal backing. If you don't, you'll DEFINITELY need new springs.
Give the caliper a wipe down with some Fenwicks (other brands are available) brake disc cleaner while the pads are out.
DON'T operate the brake levers with the pads out. You might end up popping the pistons out of the bores if you do.
Other than that, just tip the bike up to a favourable angle to visually check pad wear every now and then. The question of "how long should they last" can't really be answered. At least not with a one-size-fits-all answer. One winter MTB race in the Swinley area might do for a fresh set of pads, due to the sandy nature of the trails around here. But on a road bike with light use, you could see well over a year from a set. Get used to regularly wiping down the disc rotor with the Fenwicks too, and you'll find that braking should be improved.
But swapping pads should definitely be something you learn to do at home. Wheel out, pads out, pads in, wheel back in. Simple as that. You will need a pliers (preferably needle-nose) to remove and re-bend the split pin, or an Allen key if the pad retaining system is a bolt. Aside from that, no mysterious single purpose specialist tools.
Generic brake pad replacement video here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLa2EZJo15I ...from TRP brakes themselves.
Caveat: My experience is with pure cable operated (mechanical) disc brakes, and pure hydraulic disc brakes. I've not worked specifically on TRP Hy/Rd discs so there may be something specific with them that I haven't mentioned. Check with at least one other source before proceeding!
These pads are 'Organic' (or 'Resin') and should do you OK for drier weather, Look for 'Sintered' (or 'Metallic') pads in the right size if you want a harder wearing pad through the grotty winter months.
Better explanation (possibly) here... https://www.merlincycles.com/blog/buyers-guide-to-...
Other than that? Always try to buy pads with new springs included. Always change the pads while there is still some friction material on the metal backing. If you don't, you'll DEFINITELY need new springs.
Give the caliper a wipe down with some Fenwicks (other brands are available) brake disc cleaner while the pads are out.
DON'T operate the brake levers with the pads out. You might end up popping the pistons out of the bores if you do.
Other than that, just tip the bike up to a favourable angle to visually check pad wear every now and then. The question of "how long should they last" can't really be answered. At least not with a one-size-fits-all answer. One winter MTB race in the Swinley area might do for a fresh set of pads, due to the sandy nature of the trails around here. But on a road bike with light use, you could see well over a year from a set. Get used to regularly wiping down the disc rotor with the Fenwicks too, and you'll find that braking should be improved.
But swapping pads should definitely be something you learn to do at home. Wheel out, pads out, pads in, wheel back in. Simple as that. You will need a pliers (preferably needle-nose) to remove and re-bend the split pin, or an Allen key if the pad retaining system is a bolt. Aside from that, no mysterious single purpose specialist tools.
Generic brake pad replacement video here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLa2EZJo15I ...from TRP brakes themselves.
Caveat: My experience is with pure cable operated (mechanical) disc brakes, and pure hydraulic disc brakes. I've not worked specifically on TRP Hy/Rd discs so there may be something specific with them that I haven't mentioned. Check with at least one other source before proceeding!
Edited by yellowjack on Monday 30th April 18:33
Hy/Rd pad swaps are relatively easy, just drop the wheel out - pull the circlip - unscrew the retaining pin - pads out, and then reverse the process.
I use pads from Uberbike Components - https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/search/Trp
I use pads from Uberbike Components - https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/search/Trp
Thanks for the responses (very comprehensive Yellow Jack, but ive come to expect nothing less!)
I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
Edited by Dr Murdoch on Tuesday 1st May 10:03
Dr Murdoch said:
Thanks for the responses (very comprehensive Yellow Jack, but ive come to expect nothing less!)
I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
From that link to the Uberbike pads, I'd suggest that 'Race Matrix' pads will be the softest (guessing though). 'Semi-metallic' will be the middle ground, and 'Sintered' will be the harder, long-life pads.I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
Worth checking your disc rotors though. Some lower end rotors (including the ones on my Giant Anthem) are marked "For use with resin pads only". They're not hardened in the same way as more expensive rotors and you'd void any warranty by using harder pads than Resin/Organic pads.
In my experience there's no real issue. My rotors are fine after more than 5,200 miles, with at least 50% of that time running Sintered pads. They will wear more quickly, certainly, but all rotors will wear out in the end, and if you do have "Resin pad only" discs then almost anything else will be an upgrade anyway...
Dr Murdoch said:
Thanks for the responses (very comprehensive Yellow Jack, but ive come to expect nothing less!)
I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
Organic is the softest compound.I'm thinking of trying the Uberbike pads, soft on the front and a harder pad on the rear. However, its not clear (at least to me) which ones are which!
Edited by Dr Murdoch on Tuesday 1st May 10:03
In regards to point 3. I run sintered on both ends on the commuter, they've seen around 3,000 miles since they were last changed. The spring sits inside the pad surface line, so long as you have more pad than spring (0.8mm), they're still fine to use.
yellowjack said:
From that link to the Uberbike pads, I'd suggest that 'Race Matrix' pads will be the softest (guessing though). 'Semi-metallic' will be the middle ground, and 'Sintered' will be the harder, long-life pads.
Worth checking your disc rotors though. Some lower end rotors (including the ones on my Giant Anthem) are marked "For use with resin pads only". They're not hardened in the same way as more expensive rotors and you'd void any warranty by using harder pads than Resin/Organic pads.
In my experience there's no real issue. My rotors are fine after more than 5,200 miles, with at least 50% of that time running Sintered pads. They will wear more quickly, certainly, but all rotors will wear out in the end, and if you do have "Resin pad only" discs then almost anything else will be an upgrade anyway...
I use semi-sintered as I hate the screeching noise that's generated by resin pads in the wet.Worth checking your disc rotors though. Some lower end rotors (including the ones on my Giant Anthem) are marked "For use with resin pads only". They're not hardened in the same way as more expensive rotors and you'd void any warranty by using harder pads than Resin/Organic pads.
In my experience there's no real issue. My rotors are fine after more than 5,200 miles, with at least 50% of that time running Sintered pads. They will wear more quickly, certainly, but all rotors will wear out in the end, and if you do have "Resin pad only" discs then almost anything else will be an upgrade anyway...
This is what happened when I used aggresive sintered mtb pads on my commuter bike on a resin only rotor!
Luckily it occurred at the start of going down quite a long hill so wasn't travelling fast, I now keep a close eye on rotor thickness as if that happened on the front I'd have been over the bars.
untakenname said:
I use semi-sintered as I hate the screeching noise that's generated by resin pads in the wet.
This is what happened when I used aggresive sintered mtb pads on my commuter bike on a resin only rotor!
Luckily it occurred at the start of going down quite a long hill so wasn't travelling fast, I now keep a close eye on rotor thickness as if that happened on the front I'd have been over the bars.
This is what happened when I used aggresive sintered mtb pads on my commuter bike on a resin only rotor!
Luckily it occurred at the start of going down quite a long hill so wasn't travelling fast, I now keep a close eye on rotor thickness as if that happened on the front I'd have been over the bars.
< exits stage left in a panic, to find his vernier caliper to measure brake rotor thicknesses >
By 'eck, that looks scary...
I use Uber Race Matrix pads with TRP Spyres (cable discs) and they seem quite long-lived. Tend to get 2,500+ miles from a set and easy enough to inspect. (Spyres do need adjusting every few rides which focuses the eyes on the pads!) Recently did a week in Mallorca with 30,000 ft of descents and plenty of life on the pads.
If a wheel is misaligned in the drop-outs you can find unusual wear on a rotor - or maybe that was a function of the very lightweight Ashima Ai2 rotors I was using at the time.
If a wheel is misaligned in the drop-outs you can find unusual wear on a rotor - or maybe that was a function of the very lightweight Ashima Ai2 rotors I was using at the time.
I commute year round and have TRP cable disks on my bike, with matching TRP rotors.
I have tried various expensive harder pads for winter use. This year's trial was Swisstop green.
My conclusion is that the regular Shimano resin pads at around a fiver a set are no worse than any of the 20-40 quid posh pads. You may have to change them more often but it takes 5 mins only.
In particular the harder pads squeal a lot more and also seem more inclined to leave a deposit on the rotor which then causes judder.
So for normal year round road use I am going to stick with the standard pads now. Of course YMMV esp if downhilling or whatever.
I have tried various expensive harder pads for winter use. This year's trial was Swisstop green.
My conclusion is that the regular Shimano resin pads at around a fiver a set are no worse than any of the 20-40 quid posh pads. You may have to change them more often but it takes 5 mins only.
In particular the harder pads squeal a lot more and also seem more inclined to leave a deposit on the rotor which then causes judder.
So for normal year round road use I am going to stick with the standard pads now. Of course YMMV esp if downhilling or whatever.
I seem to have to change the pads on my bike about every 3 months, but part of my daily commute is down a long steep hill.
Ive started to buy from this eBay seller, and have had good service.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Deore-B01-B01S-...
Ive started to buy from this eBay seller, and have had good service.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Deore-B01-B01S-...
Edited by LeadFarmer on Sunday 6th May 11:30
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