Keeping chain clean in winter
Discussion
Hi,
I’ve a gravel bike that I’m using over the winter on the crumbling roads and lanes of Norfolk. It actually works quite well as some of the better routes I do are on roads that are single track and rarely used for anything other than farm machinery.
Anyway, I’ve got a fair toolkit, but not a huge amount of space, and my plan was 2 (or even 3) chains, cycled between on bike, in soak and lubricated.
On bike and lubricated I’m ok with, I use a wax based lube (hence the need to clean and relube frequently, in winter, unless I want a chain that is black with filth, rust is a continuous threat) has anyone come up with an ingenious cleaning method? Currently swilling in a bit of white spirit is my best option… I’d like something relatively environmentally friendly, low cost and hassle free, so a bottle of diesel or similar is a challenge for me.
Thank you
I’ve a gravel bike that I’m using over the winter on the crumbling roads and lanes of Norfolk. It actually works quite well as some of the better routes I do are on roads that are single track and rarely used for anything other than farm machinery.
Anyway, I’ve got a fair toolkit, but not a huge amount of space, and my plan was 2 (or even 3) chains, cycled between on bike, in soak and lubricated.
On bike and lubricated I’m ok with, I use a wax based lube (hence the need to clean and relube frequently, in winter, unless I want a chain that is black with filth, rust is a continuous threat) has anyone come up with an ingenious cleaning method? Currently swilling in a bit of white spirit is my best option… I’d like something relatively environmentally friendly, low cost and hassle free, so a bottle of diesel or similar is a challenge for me.
Thank you
I too ride the Norfolk country lanes. I just give the chain a good clean with an apc and then through a chain cleaner. Rinse off dry and relube. Normally do this as soon as I'm back from ride.
I don't use wax lube but swear by either Fenwicks wet lube or their professional lube. The professional needs 4 hours curing so it depends what mood I'm in.
Never had any problems and get good life out of my chains.
I don't use wax lube but swear by either Fenwicks wet lube or their professional lube. The professional needs 4 hours curing so it depends what mood I'm in.
Never had any problems and get good life out of my chains.
I've started hot waxing my chain. The part I like is the wax actually gets properly into the joints.
I can be selective about which days I commute to the office so I've only been caught in downpours a few times but its held up pretty well. I dry it off with a rag if it does get wet but it withstands the conditions better than drip waxes.
I only clean then with solvents when first hot waxing them.
If it is dirty when I need to rewax it I pour a kettle of boiling water on it and it comes up spotless. I would try that with a drip wax.
I can be selective about which days I commute to the office so I've only been caught in downpours a few times but its held up pretty well. I dry it off with a rag if it does get wet but it withstands the conditions better than drip waxes.
I only clean then with solvents when first hot waxing them.
If it is dirty when I need to rewax it I pour a kettle of boiling water on it and it comes up spotless. I would try that with a drip wax.
Cycling three chains between your bike over winter? This seems like massive overkill to me! The time spent cleaning / swapping chains can’t be paid back in reduced wear can it?
I spray the bike with a hose, dry it down and wipe the chain with an old micro fibre cloth.
Every third/fourth ride or if it gets super mucky, I’ll whip out the muc off and chain cleaner gadget.
I have noticed my bike needs considerably less maintanence when I wash it less as I was probably washing grease out of freehubs etc
I spray the bike with a hose, dry it down and wipe the chain with an old micro fibre cloth.
Every third/fourth ride or if it gets super mucky, I’ll whip out the muc off and chain cleaner gadget.
I have noticed my bike needs considerably less maintanence when I wash it less as I was probably washing grease out of freehubs etc
I just do the bare minimum now as it's just not worth the effort for it to be filthy again in 5 miles.
Use wax or thin lube all year round, nothing which makes the chain all gunky.
Clean the chain with soapy water when washing the bike and then dry it off with a rag so it doesn't stay wet.
The chains with the fancy anti rust coating are worth it
Use wax or thin lube all year round, nothing which makes the chain all gunky.
Clean the chain with soapy water when washing the bike and then dry it off with a rag so it doesn't stay wet.
The chains with the fancy anti rust coating are worth it
jimmy156 said:
Cycling three chains between your bike over winter? This seems like massive overkill to me! The time spent cleaning / swapping chains can’t be paid back in reduced wear can it?
I spray the bike with a hose, dry it down and wipe the chain with an old micro fibre cloth.
Every third/fourth ride or if it gets super mucky, I’ll whip out the muc off and chain cleaner gadget.
I have noticed my bike needs considerably less maintanence when I wash it less as I was probably washing grease out of freehubs etc
Just don’t like filthy chains… not sure how to explain it any better than that.I spray the bike with a hose, dry it down and wipe the chain with an old micro fibre cloth.
Every third/fourth ride or if it gets super mucky, I’ll whip out the muc off and chain cleaner gadget.
I have noticed my bike needs considerably less maintanence when I wash it less as I was probably washing grease out of freehubs etc
It takes about a minute to put a chain on. And the same again to lubricate. If there was a quick cleaning method then it kind of makes sense to me.
My post wet weather ride process is.
Spray chain with WD49 or Teflon spray. Wipe with kitchen towel to remove surface crap. Lube with chain oil.
Stops any rust and while not anywhere near as efficient as removing the chain it takes seconds. Running 9 speed I can replace the chainring, chain, and cassette, for about £45 so life is too short for regularly removing the chain to clean it.
Spray chain with WD49 or Teflon spray. Wipe with kitchen towel to remove surface crap. Lube with chain oil.
Stops any rust and while not anywhere near as efficient as removing the chain it takes seconds. Running 9 speed I can replace the chainring, chain, and cassette, for about £45 so life is too short for regularly removing the chain to clean it.
I ride MTB all year. I clean my chain after every winter ride with a park chain cleaner and use muc off wet lube sparingly during these months.
Chain always looks good, although I do about 3 chains a year.
Cheaper than trashing a 12 speed cassette.
Chain always looks good, although I do about 3 chains a year.
Cheaper than trashing a 12 speed cassette.
Edited by Simes205 on Monday 20th November 06:49
dave123456 said:
Just don’t like filthy chains… not sure how to explain it any better than that.
It takes about a minute to put a chain on. And the same again to lubricate. If there was a quick cleaning method then it kind of makes sense to me.
I'm the same, I really hate my chain being dirty. I use a cheap sonicator to clean mine. I think I paid £40 for it. It takes about a minute to put a chain on. And the same again to lubricate. If there was a quick cleaning method then it kind of makes sense to me.
I undo the quick link, put the chain into the sonicator with some cheap degreaser from screwfix and run it for 5 minutes. The chain comes out sparkling. I clean off the degreaser with mineral spirit in a container and give it a shake then refit the chain. If it's a road bike I hot wax in a slow cooker before refitting, mountain or gravel I use appropriate lube. It doesn't take any longer as the chain is being cleaned while I tend to the other bits of the bike. You can even use the sonicator as a parts cleaner for other bits, even done the wife's engagement ring so it's a very useful tool to have.
Pedaller said:
Simes205 said:
I ride MTB all year. I clean my chain after every winter ride with a park chain cleaner and use muc off wet lube sparingly during these months.
Chain always looks good, although I do about 3 chains a year.
Cheaper than trashing a 12 speed cassette.
Presumably the 3 chains per year is because they are stretched and you are trying not to wear out cassettes and chainrings? (Which is good practice). I ask because muc off wet lube forms a horrendous substance when mixed with water/mud, and it wrecks chains. Not surprised the chain cleaner tool is needed after each ride when using it! My advice would be to put it in the nearest bin.Chain always looks good, although I do about 3 chains a year.
Cheaper than trashing a 12 speed cassette.
Edited by Simes205 on Monday 20th November 06:49
Then lube of choice....
100 mile a week rider here - i rinse bike/chain each ride with a hose (and make sure chain is dry before putting away) and use a chain cleaner tool (like the park tools one) to degrease every 2-3 rides
Similar to you I avoid wet lube, as it just grinds into a paste and makes a chain go black. When re-lubing the chain always wipe excess off, most people forget to do this step.
Screwfix degreaser works well and is cheap when you buy 5 litres.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-degreaser-5...
Similar to you I avoid wet lube, as it just grinds into a paste and makes a chain go black. When re-lubing the chain always wipe excess off, most people forget to do this step.
Screwfix degreaser works well and is cheap when you buy 5 litres.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-degreaser-5...
Must admit I use the Muc Off wet lube as it’s cheap. I do tend to decrease every few rides (with the Park Tool cleaner tool) and always wipe off the excess lube. I’m also quite anal about one drip per link! I don’t use the UV torch they send with the oil though to check for uniform coverage!
I MTB throughout the year and being in Cumbria we usually come back in a s
tty mess!
My chain comes off ever 3rd ride or so and is laid out on a plank of wood and then brutalised with a pressure washer, then dried with an airline, then a liberal coating of GT 85 and then put overnight in a kerosene bath, drip dried then refitted.
Probably heresy but I just use 20/50 mineral engine oil out of a squirty can which seems to do the job just fine.
tty mess!My chain comes off ever 3rd ride or so and is laid out on a plank of wood and then brutalised with a pressure washer, then dried with an airline, then a liberal coating of GT 85 and then put overnight in a kerosene bath, drip dried then refitted.
Probably heresy but I just use 20/50 mineral engine oil out of a squirty can which seems to do the job just fine.
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