Shimano Sora Indicator Covers + Newby questions
Discussion
I am new to the world of cycling, having recently purchased a Mekk Poggio 1.5 locally to give things a go. From reading around it seems this is an older model but not a bad starting point to try things out cheaply.
One issue I have found is that the gear indicators are impossible to read:
I have noted the small screws that hold this covers in place, had a quick google but cannot seem to find replacements. Are there options out there or do I need to buy a whole new lever assembly? If its the later I will have a go at polishing them up.
Also whilst the brakes work I have noted they are not great, especially with my hands on the upper section so not getting the full leverage as you do on the drops. Will a different set of brake pads make a difference or is that just the nature of them?
Lastly I have noted when you turn the bars a few degrees either way it almost drops then stops in place. You can also replicate this going back to straight. I assume this is not normal. What causes this? Headstock bearings?
One issue I have found is that the gear indicators are impossible to read:
I have noted the small screws that hold this covers in place, had a quick google but cannot seem to find replacements. Are there options out there or do I need to buy a whole new lever assembly? If its the later I will have a go at polishing them up.
Also whilst the brakes work I have noted they are not great, especially with my hands on the upper section so not getting the full leverage as you do on the drops. Will a different set of brake pads make a difference or is that just the nature of them?
Lastly I have noted when you turn the bars a few degrees either way it almost drops then stops in place. You can also replicate this going back to straight. I assume this is not normal. What causes this? Headstock bearings?
This may be the strangest timing ever. I’ve just finished re-arranging my bike shed bits and bobs boxes and have a selection of name plate covers that I was going to chuck on the bay.
If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
The indicator covers may polish up clear, I have some that are similarly yellowed, but you find once you're familiar with things, you don't really use them, so I haven't addressed mine.
Brakes - first step is just checking everything over that it all moves smoothly, including the cable itself in the housing. Yes, some brake pads/shoes can be better than others. Not up to date on what's currently decent.
Bar notchiness when turning sounds like headset bearings to me, yes.
Brakes - first step is just checking everything over that it all moves smoothly, including the cable itself in the housing. Yes, some brake pads/shoes can be better than others. Not up to date on what's currently decent.
Bar notchiness when turning sounds like headset bearings to me, yes.
stepaway said:
This may be the strangest timing ever. I’ve just finished re-arranging my bike shed bits and bobs boxes and have a selection of name plate covers that I was going to chuck on the bay.
If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
Thank you!If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
They say ST-3500L?
If you have anything that suits it would be amazing and I can send over some money!
Thanks all, headstock bearings it is then.
Can do Motorbike ones so hopefully cope with doing these. Are these done on certain sizes or specific to the frame/manufacture?
Will have a look at some brake pads then. They work fine and everything seems free. Work really quite well when on the drops and you can make the most of the leverage but just when you are on the upper bit pulling the top of the lever the bite just isn't great.
Can do Motorbike ones so hopefully cope with doing these. Are these done on certain sizes or specific to the frame/manufacture?
Will have a look at some brake pads then. They work fine and everything seems free. Work really quite well when on the drops and you can make the most of the leverage but just when you are on the upper bit pulling the top of the lever the bite just isn't great.
MK3 Dan said:
stepaway said:
This may be the strangest timing ever. I’ve just finished re-arranging my bike shed bits and bobs boxes and have a selection of name plate covers that I was going to chuck on the bay.
If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
Thank you!If you pull the rubber cover back slightly you will find a model number, something like ST-3400.
If it is ST-3400 I have a pair going spare. They aren’t perfect but you can certainly see the indicators better than yours by the looks of it.
If you want to check and let me know if they are the right ones and I’ll chuck them in the post for you if you send me your address
Bottom right in the below pic
They say ST-3500L?
If you have anything that suits it would be amazing and I can send over some money!
The headset bearings will also need a bit of research to confirm what type you have. There are lots of variations so you need to get the right one as they can be integrated, external, tapered etc etc. Fitting may require some sort of basic press if they are not drop in. I got some threaded bar, some big metal washers, nuts, and some plastic washers which you can then use to press them in by tightening the nuts up gradually.
stepaway said:
Ah that’s a shame as I believe they are different widths between 3400 and 3500 so won’t fit. If you can do some internet sleuthing to confirm otherwise I’ll happily pop them in the post to you. No cost, just be happy if you can get some use out of them
The headset bearings will also need a bit of research to confirm what type you have. There are lots of variations so you need to get the right one as they can be integrated, external, tapered etc etc. Fitting may require some sort of basic press if they are not drop in. I got some threaded bar, some big metal washers, nuts, and some plastic washers which you can then use to press them in by tightening the nuts up gradually.
No worries, really appreciate the offer though!The headset bearings will also need a bit of research to confirm what type you have. There are lots of variations so you need to get the right one as they can be integrated, external, tapered etc etc. Fitting may require some sort of basic press if they are not drop in. I got some threaded bar, some big metal washers, nuts, and some plastic washers which you can then use to press them in by tightening the nuts up gradually.
Looks like its going with trying to clean them up. As someone mentioned above shouldn't really need them that much, more just having some trouble with the gears at the moment and it helps me work out what is going on.
HenryV1415 said:
You need these for your shifters. You can order them from a shop and they will source them from the Shimano Distributor
Y-6LS 98030
Thank you for this.Y-6LS 98030
WPA said:
No longer made or available from Shimano, only option is SH or new old stock if you can find them as they are from around 2012
This was going to be the next question, looks like just trying to clean them up would be my best option.I have managed to sort out some gear selection issues but just tightening the cable on the rear gear change - amazing what spending a couple of mins actually looking can achieve so now the indicator of gear isn't so important, as mentioned above not really needed as I get into things and the gears are now working as they should.
Next question, I am getting saddle sore! Best way to combat this?
I am using Halfords finest (£5!) padded shorts and have now upgraded with the addition of amazons best (£15!) under short with gel pads etc. Riding to work and back and by the time I am at work starting to notice it and the ride home the last bit is really uncomfortable. It then takes a day or two for things to settle before I can go again.
Is it just a case of cheap gear? Or would a different saddle likely make a difference?
For info it is about 22.5kms each way so only on the bike for about an hour a time.
Next question, I am getting saddle sore! Best way to combat this?
I am using Halfords finest (£5!) padded shorts and have now upgraded with the addition of amazons best (£15!) under short with gel pads etc. Riding to work and back and by the time I am at work starting to notice it and the ride home the last bit is really uncomfortable. It then takes a day or two for things to settle before I can go again.
Is it just a case of cheap gear? Or would a different saddle likely make a difference?
For info it is about 22.5kms each way so only on the bike for about an hour a time.
InitialDave said:
To a certain extent... you just get used to it.
Without getting into the messy details of your giblets, in what way are you getting sore? "Point loading" aches are a different kettle of fish to chafing, for example.
Was worried that would be the case!Without getting into the messy details of your giblets, in what way are you getting sore? "Point loading" aches are a different kettle of fish to chafing, for example.
Its not chafing, I guess it would be point loading. Almost where the top of my leg meets my backside and in slightly, where its resting on the saddle. Almost feels like its bruising, bumps hurt as does taking pressure on and off the saddle. Even a normal chair then becomes uncomfortable after.
The bruised bone type of pain does stop happening after you've been riding for a while. Taking breaks from cycling to let it recover.
However good your saddle and shorts are, ultimately on a road bike you aren't sitting on a big cushioned seat.
Saddle position helps, making sure its level is and that it's not pushed so far back that you keep sliding forward onto the nose.
However good your saddle and shorts are, ultimately on a road bike you aren't sitting on a big cushioned seat.
Saddle position helps, making sure its level is and that it's not pushed so far back that you keep sliding forward onto the nose.
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