Sram Code - getting more grab/bite

[ecs]

I have a set of Sram Code brakes on my Stumpjumper, they're not short on power but I find I have to really pull on the brake levers sometimes. I had a set of Hope 4 pots on a (really) old mountain bike in the past and they had a lot more 'bite'.

Just wondering if anyone could recommend some pads which would increase the initial bike/grab on my Codes? I've found a few companies who make Kevlar pads like Uberbike and was wondering if they might help? Not too concernened about heat or wear from a softer pad compound.

[nickfrog]

Not sure if you want more power or less dead travel. I don't use SRAM brakes anymore because of the unbearable dead travel but I have occasionally managed to mitigate it by carefully but purposely pull the lever without the rotors in (I know you shouldn't do that) to get the pads closer to the rotors. I have also used a 1mm thick metal ruler instead of the rotor to do this and it cut the dead travel a lot but it might have been luck rather than ingenuity. You could also use thicker rotors, like 2.3mm.

My advice may well cause an early death so feel free to ignore it.

[ecs]

That's interesting because they do feel like they should have power, just the levers end up very close to the grip. I wonder if I could achieve a similar result by moving the levers inboard and adjusting the reach to compensate.

[nickfrog]

Might help a little but it's inherent to SRAM and IME can only be fixed properly by "cheating" as described.

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/bike-forum/sram...

But perhaps others have a better solution in fairness.

Edited by nickfrog on Friday 2nd May 10:53

[SwissJonese]

Had SRAM Code, Code r and Code RSC on previous bikes from new. All horrible brake feel and modulation and Dot.1 is so horrible to bleed, makes such a mess.
Swapped out for Shimano brakes, more feel, better braking. Also easier to fix with mineral oil, quick top up using the cup and a few taps of the cables to remove air bubbles.
SRAM DB8 with mineral oil though are good new SRAM brakes.

[nickfrog]

I personally don't like Shimano brakes as they have the reverse issue, and not to mention variable biting points and leaky seals ...

I have seen the light and went TRP for a fraction of the price yet better than both !?

[BOR]

Trickstuff Power pads always give me a braking boost on SRAM Guides and Codes.

Bleeding:

I bled a set of Codes recently, all good, lever feel as good as my new bike also with Codes.

I then bled my older bike with Guides, but this time I really spent a lot of time preparing the fluid in the syringe by repeatedly drawing a vacuum on it, to remove any air.

Then, during the bleed process I really took a lot of time drawing the last few bubbles out of the system.

I was sceptical about doing this, but the result was a lever that was so rock hard, that I thought I'd jammed a piston or something.

I really need to try this on my new bike to see if it was just a one-off.

[ecs]

I've just tried the bite point adjustment trick on my front brake and it's really helped with the feel. I squeezed the pistons out with the front wheel removed, after re-installing, I used the flex in the rotor to adjust piston position. There's a bit of scrub at the moment and I've just noticied my rotor has a small bit of warp, but will try riding and see how it goes.

Great suggestion!

[Before the music stops]

I've been running Code RSCs on various bikes for years. If you want more 'grab' or 'bite', then maybe look at Shimano (which I have also run on other bikes). The Codes can sometimes feel a bit underwhelming but in reality it's just that they have plenty of modulation. I currently run them with Uberbike RaceMatrix pads and SRAM HS2 220/200mm rotors and haven't yet run out of brakes (I ride almost exclusively in Madeira so super steep and rocky trails).

[nickfrog]

ecs said:

I've just tried the bite point adjustment trick on my front brake and it's really helped with the feel. I squeezed the pistons out with the front wheel removed, after re-installing, I used the flex in the rotor to adjust piston position. There's a bit of scrub at the moment and I've just noticied my rotor has a small bit of warp, but will try riding and see how it goes.

Great suggestion!

Glad it worked. Get yourself a rotor straightening tool, it does help and works better than an adjustable spanner...

[P-Jay]

Yeah, SRAM are a pain for this.

It's sometimes caused by anything but perfectly straight rotors. The pistons are send back too far by the rotor. IME Shimano rotors hold true better than SRAM.

If you've got RSCs you can tune most of it out.

If your brakes are well-used / older, you can grease the pistons with SRAM Dot grease and this will liven them right up. Although this can increase the dead lever travel as they can suck too far back in when the lever is released.

Mostly though, as others have said. Just pump them out a bit.