New derailleur time??
Discussion
I can't get my head round what the issue is. They've been a bit off for a while but since I replaced the chain (almost at 1% longer...) it's now going into the bottom gear one early and will pop off the big ring if I then go one more down. It's like the stop screw has been loosened +/- the cable tightened.
It does seem like the pivot what it attached to the hanger has more play than my other bikes and the bottom of the derailleur is closer to the wheel. It's an SRAM NX 11 speed and I've been through 3 or 4 chains IIRC and one cassette and crankset in its life.
I've pretty much persuaded myself while typing this out that it's buggered so is there a worthwhile straightforward upgrade?? I'll do the cable inner while I'm at it.
It does seem like the pivot what it attached to the hanger has more play than my other bikes and the bottom of the derailleur is closer to the wheel. It's an SRAM NX 11 speed and I've been through 3 or 4 chains IIRC and one cassette and crankset in its life.
I've pretty much persuaded myself while typing this out that it's buggered so is there a worthwhile straightforward upgrade?? I'll do the cable inner while I'm at it.
The freehub has two bearings in. The size will be printed on the face of them, and they are usually readily availble from bearing suppliers online much cheaper than from bike shops.
You need to tap the first bearing out using a hammer and suitable drift/blunt screwdriver, then remove the internal circlip so you can tap the second one out.
Clean it all up and tap the new bearing in using a hammer and suitable size socket or the old bearing to make sure it goes in straight. Fit the circlip and if there is a plastic spacer, don't forget to put it in before you tap the outer bearing into place!
Edit: your second picture is the wheel bearings, not the freehub bearings. Is it those that are graunchy?
You need to tap the first bearing out using a hammer and suitable drift/blunt screwdriver, then remove the internal circlip so you can tap the second one out.
Clean it all up and tap the new bearing in using a hammer and suitable size socket or the old bearing to make sure it goes in straight. Fit the circlip and if there is a plastic spacer, don't forget to put it in before you tap the outer bearing into place!
Edit: your second picture is the wheel bearings, not the freehub bearings. Is it those that are graunchy?
Edited by boyse7en on Tuesday 2nd June 16:21
Bill said:
Found a part number, but Whyte's website lists free hubs and says it's been discontinued but replaced with a new version.
That's good news, generic non-branded hubs can be a nightmare for parts. To remove the hub bearings, typically you'll need a punch tool to bang them out from the other side. Don't use a screw driver or there's a good chance you'll end up with a smashed bearing and the outer race stuck in the hub, which is a world of pain to sort.
Thanks. I've ordered a freehub from Whyte as I got nowhere on Google with the numbers.
Also got the hub bearings out using a rawl bolt (cunning tip from YouTube) to move it initially and the a screwdriver (sorry) to punch it out. Also got those on order.
And a new derailleur as there's loads of play in it and the spring is weak.
Also got the hub bearings out using a rawl bolt (cunning tip from YouTube) to move it initially and the a screwdriver (sorry) to punch it out. Also got those on order.
And a new derailleur as there's loads of play in it and the spring is weak.
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