MTB for around £1000 any suggestions ?

[RetroWheels]

Having recentley dug my old bike out of the garage and started riding it again (2nd hand "Mongoose" whatever that is -cost £80 some years ago)and got a taste for it,i now want something newer and better .

Disc brakes look good ,as does sprung front suspension , but what about rear suspension ?
A mate says rear susp can be more work to pedal , true or gibberish ?

I've no idea about frame materials ,is reynolds 501 tubing still trick ? -it was in the 1970's .

I intend to use it for cycling to the gym via some waste ground (urban Manchester) but also some slightly more off road stuff up in the hills - Nothing to Hardcore though ,as im 17 stone and quite top heavy , so in not convinced that my Centre of Gravity is ideal for anyyhing too Extreme.

Also im a wuss and prefer an FIA approved roll cage around me if i do anything remotley quickly ..

I havent yet read all the MTB web sites yet ,but if anyone here can give me some pointers on what to look for that would help my reasearch .

Thanks.

[gazzab]

I would suggest you start with a decent hardtail. Trek, Specialised and Scott are all excellent choices. Get yourself to a decent shop to try the frames for fit etc

[Kermit power]

There's 17 stone of me too, and my Specialized FSR XC Pro has survived 2 years of what is probably best termed as "agressive cross country" (not downhill racing by any stretch, but still plenty of speed and bumps) with no problems at all. One thing you do need to sort with your local bike shop, however, is the springing of the forks. If you're getting air sprung forks, this should just be a tuning issue, but if you're getting coil sprung forks, then make sure they fit a spring that will take your weight, and don't let them charge you extra! I didn't do this with the original front forks on my bike, and it turned out the springs were only rated up to something like 10.5 stone, so I was using most of the travel just sitting still!

With regards to front vs full suspension, because of the added cost and complexity of rear suspension, the other components on a £1k bike are always going to be a bit better on a hardtail, and it is also going to be a bit lighter. On the other hand, full suspension will be more forgiving, and definitely makes for a more comfortable backside if you start doing longer stretches of offroad touring.

Many people will tell you that you should ride a hardtail to start, because this will make you a better rider. Whilst this theoretically true, since you'll be forced to take better lines if you don't want your fillings shaken out by the back wheel, in reality, it is largely academic for 2 reasons. Firstly, unless you're planning to have multiple bikes for different applications, then a short travel full suspension bike really does seem to be the best compromise. Secondly, at the price point you're looking at (especially if you do the sensible thing and save 30% or so on a last year's model being sold in the sales) then you're looking at a lockable rear shock anyway, so if you want to improve your skills by emulating a hardtail, you can.

Basically, it's a bit like learning to drive. Yes, the sensible thing to do is learn on a manual, but if you know you're only realistically ever going to drive an automatic, why bother? The only difference is that in the MTB environment, "automatics" can be just as much fun!

In terms of specific bikes at that pricepoint, I would certainly recommend my FSR XC Pro. £1,300 new, but you should be able to get a last year model for £1k.

[Stuart]

See my bike in the most recent post of "show off your bike." Specialized Rockhopper Comp - hard tail with well specced components/sus forks, disc brakes and cracking frame - Aluminium M4. It rides beautifully for my needs, looks great and I personally prefer hard tails to full sus machines. There's lots of choice around the £1000 mark - log on to www.evanscycles.com or www.wiggle.com for starters.

Have fun - I can't leave my bike alone at the moment and I'm having a great time on it.

[RetroWheels]

Thanks for the replies , lot's to think about especially with regard to rider weight and suspension travel - found this I Drive bike , going a touch over budget , but it looks interesting ,is I drive anything special ?
Thanks

www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360026529

[BikealarmBlair]

cut from an email I sent a m8..

check these out
>>>
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b2s1p438
>>>
>>> this is the trek you were looking at before
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b3s1p452
>>>
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b7s1p165
>>>
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b7s1p164
>>>
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b1s1p106
>>>
>>> this is the one dave has
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b5s1p39
>>>
>>> new version of mine
>>> www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b4s1p395
>>>
>>> nice www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b3s1p475
>>>
>>> that should keep you busy!

[gazzab]

I dont think full suss (at RRP) are worth buying until you pay well over £1200??? STick with a great hard tail. £800 is all you need to spend. Trek 6700, Rockhopper Disc etc....

[Stuart]

RetroWheels said:

going a touch over budget

Welcome to buying boys toys. Don't think I've ever stuck to my budget when buying a bike...

Don't know much about iDrive but it sounds like a marketing slogan to describe the way in which the bike overcomes some of the problems associated with full suspension bikes; that the rear swing arm can shorten the distance between seat and pedal, and rear mech and pedal, whilst moving to absorb the bumps. It's one of the reasons why I only wanted a hardtail (prepares for onslaught from the full-sus brigade) but there are various solutions to these problems available from the different manufacturers.

Have a look at the equivalent specialized full-sus at this price. OK, I'm a specialized freak, but you'll see plenty of specialized bikes on the trail for good reason; they are excellent.

I'd get yourself into your local bike shop to have a look at and sit on some in the flesh, and then go back if and when you've convinced yourself that you can't find better online.

[RetroWheels]

Again, thanks for the replies/links , i think a trip to the bike shops of Manchester is in order this coming weekend - budget be damned.

I can see the cylce shop scenario unfolding not unlike this(substitute Bicycle for Gramophone ).........

www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSINO6MKtco&mode=related&search=

[pombstard]

Don't forget GT and Giant frames - just to add to the mix when you're trying to find a frame that fits. A grand should get a Giant XTC with good spec which is pretty tough frame. Probably one of the things to note for a "top-heavy" rider is a good set of forks - Marzocchi used to be good for OE bikes - not sure if that's still the case now. Lightweight forks will flex and won't help with your confidence. Don't let someone sell you a race-spec bike - it could be too light for you!

[mat205125]

I'd suggest going for a hard tail bike to begin with, and the advice in Kermits reply above ^ regarding getting the spring rate right for you weight is very good. Taking an off the shelf fork will most likely mean that it will be too soft and bottom out everywhere.

I'm not trying to put you off, and appreciate that everyones disposable income differs, but you really don't need to jump in feet first with a £1000 bike to have fun.

How about something like this. You could run this for a few years, then think about a full sus if you get more into the sport, or upgrade components as you progress or parts inevitably break.

www.stif.co.uk/gear/select_options.asp?productid=4650

www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=8399