Tyre Pressures
Discussion
Afternoon all!
Just a Quickie..
what tyre pressures do you guys like to run when going down the trails?
just back from sandwell valley running 40psi, and found i had MUCH more grip in the muddy sections and forest sections than before.
although i could feel a bit of tyre roll/wash? when cornering.
Just a Quickie..
what tyre pressures do you guys like to run when going down the trails?
just back from sandwell valley running 40psi, and found i had MUCH more grip in the muddy sections and forest sections than before.
although i could feel a bit of tyre roll/wash? when cornering.
I'm usually well over 40psi - sometimes up to 65. I've been doing long distance XC rides with the lowest rolling resistance possible, so I've had to live with the compromise in grip & comfort.
Usually I would expect 30-40psi would be a good enough pressure to give you good grip over uneven surfaces,
Usually I would expect 30-40psi would be a good enough pressure to give you good grip over uneven surfaces,
Usually around 30psi front / 40psi rear - that's doing fairly freeridey stuff on a big heavy long travel hardtail.
The commuter gets 50-60ish psi, but it has pencil-thin tyres.
Tesco down my way are selling BMX tubes for 1.50 a pop, so I'm thinking of trying out ghetto tubeless on the big bike to see if I can avoid the pinch flats I keep getting on the rear...
The commuter gets 50-60ish psi, but it has pencil-thin tyres.
Tesco down my way are selling BMX tubes for 1.50 a pop, so I'm thinking of trying out ghetto tubeless on the big bike to see if I can avoid the pinch flats I keep getting on the rear...
Full sus bike with 2.00" tyres for XC usually run at 35psi front, 40psi rear on rocky/stony terrain, and I'm about 90kg/14st. For HT usually 35 front and rear. No probs with pinch flats or wobbly moments.
Commuter tyres for HT are 1.25" and run at 100-110psi - its the only way to keep up with roadies
Commuter tyres for HT are 1.25" and run at 100-110psi - its the only way to keep up with roadies
Moose. said:
2.35" Maxis high rollers front and rear running 37psi in both works great on my hardtail 
However, I only weigh 10.5 stone so if you're heavier then you will probably want more
My OCD would never let me run an odd number ... except maybe a 5. However, I only weigh 10.5 stone so if you're heavier then you will probably want moreEdited by Moose. on Friday 4th July 15:15
To the previous poster. 100 psi? That's road bike pressure, Shirley not on an MTB????
mat205125 said:
Moose. said:
2.35" Maxis high rollers front and rear running 37psi in both works great on my hardtail However, I only weigh 10.5 stone so if you're heavier then you will probably want more
My OCD would never let me run an odd number ... except maybe a 5. However, I only weigh 10.5 stone so if you're heavier then you will probably want moreEdited by Moose. on Friday 4th July 15:15
To the previous poster. 100 psi? That's road bike pressure, Shirley not on an MTB????
The simple answer is "as little pressure as possible without pinch flatting".
Rolling resistance does not significantly increase until you get below 20 psi. In fact, the tyre with less air pressure has less rolling resistance off road as it deforms and rolls over stuff instead of recoiling.
I run 25psi Front / 30 Rear on my XC race bike with tubeless tyres, giving loads of cornering grip.
The same tyres with tubes on my XC hardtail had to run 35 F / 45 R. It didn't roll faster but had loads less grip in the corners, braking and climbing.
On my DH race bike I run 24F/28R. The rims get dinged from rocks, as the tyres get compressed, but the combination of wide rim and thick tubes means the tyres don't pinch flat.
If your tyres feel like they are folding on the rims at lower pressures when cornering you are running a tyre too wide for the width of the rim. Also, don't forget wider tyres need a bigger tube. Running a 2.3 tyre with a 1.9-2.1 tube will give you endless pinch flats.
If you haven't converted to tubeless yet then do it! The massive increase in traction from the lower pressures is more than enough reason, never mind the massive reduction in flats.
Rolling resistance does not significantly increase until you get below 20 psi. In fact, the tyre with less air pressure has less rolling resistance off road as it deforms and rolls over stuff instead of recoiling.
I run 25psi Front / 30 Rear on my XC race bike with tubeless tyres, giving loads of cornering grip.
The same tyres with tubes on my XC hardtail had to run 35 F / 45 R. It didn't roll faster but had loads less grip in the corners, braking and climbing.
On my DH race bike I run 24F/28R. The rims get dinged from rocks, as the tyres get compressed, but the combination of wide rim and thick tubes means the tyres don't pinch flat.
If your tyres feel like they are folding on the rims at lower pressures when cornering you are running a tyre too wide for the width of the rim. Also, don't forget wider tyres need a bigger tube. Running a 2.3 tyre with a 1.9-2.1 tube will give you endless pinch flats.
If you haven't converted to tubeless yet then do it! The massive increase in traction from the lower pressures is more than enough reason, never mind the massive reduction in flats.
Miffy964RS said:
If you haven't converted to tubeless yet then do it! The massive increase in traction from the lower pressures is more than enough reason, never mind the massive reduction in flats.
^ = the truth.Tubeless is the way forward guys. I run Stans Arch Rims, currently on 2.35 Maxxis. Huge grip, low weight. Pressures are less than 30psi all round. No pinches. Huge grip.
snotrag said:
Miffy964RS said:
If you haven't converted to tubeless yet then do it! The massive increase in traction from the lower pressures is more than enough reason, never mind the massive reduction in flats.
^ = the truth.Tubeless is the way forward guys. I run Stans Arch Rims, currently on 2.35 Maxxis. Huge grip, low weight. Pressures are less than 30psi all round. No pinches. Huge grip.
And if I were to go to tubeless on my Stumpy, would that mean having to replace my rims and tyres?
That's a pretty expensive bit of business!!!!
beanbag said:
But how difficult are they to replace on the go?
And if I were to go to tubeless on my Stumpy, would that mean having to replace my rims and tyres?
That's a pretty expensive bit of business!!!!
Stans no tubes are your friend....only c£50 turns tubed wheels/tyres into tubless wheels/tyres!!And if I were to go to tubeless on my Stumpy, would that mean having to replace my rims and tyres?
That's a pretty expensive bit of business!!!!
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