Diffrence between sram x0 - x9 -x7
Diffrence between sram x0 - x9 -x7
Author
Discussion

v8 jago

Original Poster:

982 posts

276 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
After been stupid and wrecking my sram x0 last night i am now on the look for a new deralleuer. I know the diffrences between the materials they are made with, but as ive never had an x9 or x7, can you tell the diffrence when shifting or as how they work between them as everyday riding. I just want something that will get me away for now and feel nice when i make it do its job.

carlomtb

21 posts

211 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
from experience i've found that x7 isnt worth, the shifting feels sloppy. In my opinion it has to be at least x9, x0 if you feel like spending that much on a rear mech

WildCards

4,061 posts

240 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
As i've been told elsewhere...

X0 has metal inner workings, which means long lasting, hard wearing and easy to service. X9 is identical, but made of hard plastic. 2007 X9 is 2006 X0, I don't know whether the same can be said of the 07-08 versions though.

I have X7 on my new HT, but it's all still very brand new and un-muddied. So far, it feels much like the X9 shifters i'm used to, solid and direct. i very much prefer Sram to Shimano.

pastrana72

1,740 posts

231 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
I have a XO rear Mech on one bike and X9 rear mechs on another two,

I would recomend you get the latest X9 mech and skip the XO, you will not notice a big difference in performance.

It is the shifters where you get the real difference, XO ones feel much better and more positive, than my X9 ones, but they are expensive, so they need to be.

Never tried a X7, but they look that they would be OK.

v8 jago

Original Poster:

982 posts

276 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for that. I think im going to get a x9 then. Does anyone know if you can buy spares for the x0 ? As in the bottom jockey wheel with the cage that it sits in.

pastrana72

1,740 posts

231 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
you should be able to get spares for the XO from the UK distributer via a bike shop that sells/stocks sram,

The XO is rebuildable, where as the X9 and below are not.

I think fishers are the UK distributer for sram.

v8 jago

Original Poster:

982 posts

276 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
Cheers ! Ill give them a try.

theboymoon

2,699 posts

283 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
I've just crossed back over to the dark side. Have had 2 sram x9's let go on my this year. One gave up in massive twist of metal stylee and the other one had the spring go, so couldnt put enough tension through the chain.

Now run a 08 XTR trigger shifter and 08 XT med cage mech. If the mech rips off its not too expensive the shifting action is much nicer than the sram triggers i had before smile

shalmaneser

6,293 posts

218 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
X7 if you're cheap, X9 if you're sensible, X0 if you're a bit of a mental and have more money than sense!

rhinochopig

17,932 posts

221 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2008
quotequote all
Can't comment on SRAM, but the biggest improvement in shift quality IME is by fitting the highest quality cables. I would rather spend less of the rear mech and more on the cables.

v8 jago

Original Poster:

982 posts

276 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2008
quotequote all
Just replaced the x0 with a new x9. It looks as though it will do the same job and just as good. Im very happy with it. Thanks for the advice . Back on track again. biggrin

BOR

5,083 posts

278 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
rhinochopig said:
Can't comment on SRAM, but the biggest improvement in shift quality IME is by fitting the highest quality cables. I would rather spend less of the rear mech and more on the cables.
That's quite a surprising claim, but I can see the logic to it. Do you have any specific recomendations over OE cables ? I've seen a bit of hype about some expensive Gore fully sleeved cables, but no personal experience. I've never really lubricated cables, but I can see the point in terms of reducing friction.

Tim.s

753 posts

225 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
I splashed out on some flashy Transfil cables last year which lasted about 8 weeks until the rear loop rusted solid. Better to go for cheaper ones and replace them often IMO, just avoid the really cheap stuff.

rhinochopig

17,932 posts

221 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
BOR said:
rhinochopig said:
Can't comment on SRAM, but the biggest improvement in shift quality IME is by fitting the highest quality cables. I would rather spend less of the rear mech and more on the cables.
That's quite a surprising claim, but I can see the logic to it. Do you have any specific recomendations over OE cables ? I've seen a bit of hype about some expensive Gore fully sleeved cables, but no personal experience. I've never really lubricated cables, but I can see the point in terms of reducing friction.
I always buy XTR cables. They just seem to be better sealed and run smoother and last longer than cheap cables. I haven't tried NOKON or Gore TBH as I haven't had the need to.

If you think about it, the component that offers you perfect indexing and a smooth shift is the cable. If it sticks or has a lot of friction, the shift will feel tight or the indexing will not work properly as the mech return spring will struggle to counteract the fiction in the cable run.

pdV6

16,442 posts

284 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
Cables can make a hell of a difference.

My default is to use XTR cables on everything, but I have tried lots of different ones over the years.

Possibly the best all-round ones I ever found were JagWire cables; they had a coated inner and really good seals at the ferrules that actually worked. In fact, that set is still on my commuter MTB several (read: 8+) years on. Trouble is I can't find them for sale any more.

I've also tried the Transfil cables that have a full-length inner sheath. The issue with those is that installation is a slight pain, not too bad but definitely more fiddly than "normal" cables. I found that the brake cables were a bit rubbish - water & gunk still got inside the inner sheath and then the situation was worse than with traditional cables. The gear cable sets seem to work just fine though, but no better IMO than XTR.

I've not tried Avid Flakjackets or Gore RideOn mainly on grounds of cost.

pastrana72

1,740 posts

231 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
I use avid flakjackets on all my bikes, the best I have tried, and worth the cost ( although forgive me, I did not think they are that expensive really in the long run)

pdV6

16,442 posts

284 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
You're right. I've just looked on Wiggle and they're only about a fiver more than XTRs now.
Pretty sure they used to be a lot more expensive.
RideOns still look to be about double the price of XTR.

-C-

518 posts

218 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
Never had an issue with the Flying Snake stuff, as long as you install it properly & keep the ends away from a hose.

Running full length outers makes life a fair bit easier too.

Mr_C

2,495 posts

252 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
I've got some SRAM Attack shifters. Rapid fire things.

Sixty quid.

Crap.

My old (and very much knackered) Sachs Waveys were far better!!!

pdV6

16,442 posts

284 months

Thursday 4th September 2008
quotequote all
Mr_C said:
I've got some SRAM Attack shifters. Rapid fire things.
...
Crap.
Each to their own. I first bought a single Attack rear shifter in order to integrate properly with a Juicy brake lever. Liked 'em so much I converted both bikes to Attack shifters front and rear.