Discussion
Just looking for some general advice on what makes a good 'Commuter bike'
Recently had my car totalled by vandals and considering going without four wheels for an indefinite period. I am already walking into work now and seeing everyone else cycle by has got me considering a bicycle.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent off the shelf bike or just point out the important bits for my attention?
Recently had my car totalled by vandals and considering going without four wheels for an indefinite period. I am already walking into work now and seeing everyone else cycle by has got me considering a bicycle.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent off the shelf bike or just point out the important bits for my attention?
Budget: Say £300-£500GBP
Security: The bike will be kept in my flat. At work it will be stored in the dis-used toilet (they'd have to push it past the entire shop-floor)
Daily Hack is about 5 miles each way. Its purely tarmac (possibly cobbles if I try a back street short-cut).
However its on a constant gradient: going to work its down hill with one climb in the middle, going home its all up hill with the same hill half way.
I rather liked the look of this from the "Show your bike off" Thread

Which was a refurb/DIY job by a PH'er.
I'm quite up for building one up out of parts/seconds, just need some pointers as to WHAT to build/parts to buy.
Security: The bike will be kept in my flat. At work it will be stored in the dis-used toilet (they'd have to push it past the entire shop-floor)
Daily Hack is about 5 miles each way. Its purely tarmac (possibly cobbles if I try a back street short-cut).
However its on a constant gradient: going to work its down hill with one climb in the middle, going home its all up hill with the same hill half way.
I rather liked the look of this from the "Show your bike off" Thread

Which was a refurb/DIY job by a PH'er.
I'm quite up for building one up out of parts/seconds, just need some pointers as to WHAT to build/parts to buy.
i would look at getting an old steel kona frame and building up a rapid, rigid, ultra lightweight single speed bike. it would be great fun on a tarmac commute and get you seriously fit in no time. you should be able to find something on retrobike or some parts at least.
a good commuter bike is light, undesirable to thieves, easy to maintain, fast and nimble. old school kona geometry was always good on singletrack and thus makes it good for nipping in and out of traffic and quick acceleration.
a good commuter bike is light, undesirable to thieves, easy to maintain, fast and nimble. old school kona geometry was always good on singletrack and thus makes it good for nipping in and out of traffic and quick acceleration.
Don't reserve your entire budget only for the bike. You'll also need clothing, lights (very important), and a basic toolkit. You can buy a pump too, I use gas canisters though, much smaller and less faffing about. Puncture repairs these days use self-adhesive pads, even less faffing.
I strongly recommend going to Decathlon for clothing (or the nearest big supermarket).
I strongly recommend going to Decathlon for clothing (or the nearest big supermarket).
Edited by Parrot of Doom on Saturday 25th July 21:12
If you're interested in building something up, have a look at the Sirrus based 9 speed bike I built here as a commuting/bridleway bike for my father:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...
It cost me around £350 but that includes secondhand frame, wheels, cranks, changer & mech. It is easy to spend more than a decent new bike would cost if you're not careful!
With a wide ratio block on the rear the 9 speeds give enough range to handle steep climbs and pedal upto 40mph downhill - and it only weighs 19lb so it's pretty quick.
Re. Visability, I try and make my bikes as bright as possible - i.e. polished rather than matt black and on my roadbike I fit brightly coloured tyres and bar tape. I also ride with small 'daytime running' LED lights fitted front & rear.
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...
It cost me around £350 but that includes secondhand frame, wheels, cranks, changer & mech. It is easy to spend more than a decent new bike would cost if you're not careful!
With a wide ratio block on the rear the 9 speeds give enough range to handle steep climbs and pedal upto 40mph downhill - and it only weighs 19lb so it's pretty quick.
Re. Visability, I try and make my bikes as bright as possible - i.e. polished rather than matt black and on my roadbike I fit brightly coloured tyres and bar tape. I also ride with small 'daytime running' LED lights fitted front & rear.
I used one of these for a year when commuting through london
http://tinyurl.com/nflqtj
It was good combination of being simple, tough and pretty quick. Price was pretty good too.
If I was commuting by bike again, I would consider another.
http://tinyurl.com/nflqtj
It was good combination of being simple, tough and pretty quick. Price was pretty good too.
If I was commuting by bike again, I would consider another.
I'm using a 15-year old Diamond Back Ascent EX to commute for the last eight weeks and it suits my cross-London journey just fine. I was thinking of going for a Canondale Bad Boy but one of the guys in the local bike shop said "Why? This is a better bike". (he's into retro steel frames....).
Good points
- small and highly manoeuverable (mountain bike geometry)
- great for getting round traffic queues, in and out of gaps
- whippy frame that transmits power but also isolates the worst shocks
- fat rims and fat (slick) tyres - good for hammering over broken tarmac, hopping on and off kerbs
- good all round componentry (brakes, gears etc)
Bad points
- low (off road) gearing - but as I spend most of my time in central London this isn't a real issue for me
Things I don't need
- suspension? London?
- disk brakes - look good but not on my shopping list
If I didn't have this I would consider another mountain bile or a hybrid at the mountain bike end of the scale. A lot of the features of a good mountain bike are useful when blatting through London IMHO. Good frame/good components/wide rims = good London commuter to me at least.
Good points
- small and highly manoeuverable (mountain bike geometry)
- great for getting round traffic queues, in and out of gaps
- whippy frame that transmits power but also isolates the worst shocks
- fat rims and fat (slick) tyres - good for hammering over broken tarmac, hopping on and off kerbs
- good all round componentry (brakes, gears etc)
Bad points
- low (off road) gearing - but as I spend most of my time in central London this isn't a real issue for me
Things I don't need
- suspension? London?
- disk brakes - look good but not on my shopping list
If I didn't have this I would consider another mountain bile or a hybrid at the mountain bike end of the scale. A lot of the features of a good mountain bike are useful when blatting through London IMHO. Good frame/good components/wide rims = good London commuter to me at least.
Edited by angusc43 on Wednesday 29th July 14:49
I have a cheap alloy MTB frame off CRC that I have built up with spare parts from my garage and my mates' garages. Even got given a set of knackered but repairable XTR v-brakes (thanks Wildcards). Put a new brake pads, cables, chain, tyres and tubes and a couple of other bits and bobs.
I then put on:
Full geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
I ride 5 miles on tow path and roads of varying condition and the bike is fine. Ideally would prefer higher gears but I got what I was given.
Total cost: Sub £250
Theft desirability: Zero now the gucci bits are too dirty to spot.
Finally be aware that commuter bikes get really dirty really quickly so plastic sheeting will be needed for your flat. Goretex sealed cables are expensive but probably worth it as zero maintenance - my gears are a bit sticky without. Or stick to single speed.
I then put on:
Full geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
I ride 5 miles on tow path and roads of varying condition and the bike is fine. Ideally would prefer higher gears but I got what I was given.
Total cost: Sub £250
Theft desirability: Zero now the gucci bits are too dirty to spot.
Finally be aware that commuter bikes get really dirty really quickly so plastic sheeting will be needed for your flat. Goretex sealed cables are expensive but probably worth it as zero maintenance - my gears are a bit sticky without. Or stick to single speed.
Glad you like the black beast Oiley Nails.
Since that photo was taken i have fitted a chain guard to keep my trousers clean (i lube it with old car oil) and i got fitted for a new seat that fits my arse and the relaxed geometry a lot better. I also picked up a very cheap sus seatpost (€5) so that i no longer have to lift my arse off the seat for lowered kerbs and potholes.
I can honestly say i enjoy riding it far more than my other 3 expensive bikes becasue around a city a road bike is to fragile and my orange sounds like a tractor when rolling.
As someone said, black isnt the best colour for safety but i am lucky as Munich has cycle tracks on almost every pavement so you out of harms way. I think there is a thread on here where someone painted there bike with a Scotchbrite (sp) paint that reflects like HV stuff but in daylight looks plain.
The only thing i think i would do different is maybe fitting a 8sp internal hub gear but that would of meant a lot more money and its not worth it for the distance i do. Oh and i also wouldnt skrimp and be tight when it came to primer. i ran out with only the handle bars left to go and didnt bother buying a whole new tin jsut for them. The paint is flaking alredy so they will have to be redone.
Just shows you how good primer is and how much good preparation makes to the build.
I dont know about the Uk, but over hear dynmo lights are really improving. The setup i have on blackie is smooth and almost silent. the front halogen light is very bright and the back LED remain lit when stationary for safey for a while. I dont think i would go back to battery lights now after using these.
Since that photo was taken i have fitted a chain guard to keep my trousers clean (i lube it with old car oil) and i got fitted for a new seat that fits my arse and the relaxed geometry a lot better. I also picked up a very cheap sus seatpost (€5) so that i no longer have to lift my arse off the seat for lowered kerbs and potholes.
I can honestly say i enjoy riding it far more than my other 3 expensive bikes becasue around a city a road bike is to fragile and my orange sounds like a tractor when rolling.
As someone said, black isnt the best colour for safety but i am lucky as Munich has cycle tracks on almost every pavement so you out of harms way. I think there is a thread on here where someone painted there bike with a Scotchbrite (sp) paint that reflects like HV stuff but in daylight looks plain.
The only thing i think i would do different is maybe fitting a 8sp internal hub gear but that would of meant a lot more money and its not worth it for the distance i do. Oh and i also wouldnt skrimp and be tight when it came to primer. i ran out with only the handle bars left to go and didnt bother buying a whole new tin jsut for them. The paint is flaking alredy so they will have to be redone.
Just shows you how good primer is and how much good preparation makes to the build.I dont know about the Uk, but over hear dynmo lights are really improving. The setup i have on blackie is smooth and almost silent. the front halogen light is very bright and the back LED remain lit when stationary for safey for a while. I dont think i would go back to battery lights now after using these.
Master Mischief said:
I then put on:
Full geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
.
Good pointsFull geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
.
I agree on helmet (got the top end Specialised thingy - very light, very well vented.)
Bell - check - less rude than yelling....
Reflecters - good point - need to add all them
LED's fornt and back - ditto
Gloves - I'm going to get some (used to use 'em)
Over shoes - I use men's mudguards (Crudcatchers) which of course don't work - so I'll need to get some waterfroof (maybe Goretex) overshoes.
For the lock I bought a collabsible one - Abus I think.
Got (black) Goretex jacket and shorts - very breathable, relatively waterproof plus tshirt and trainers
Will probable get fluoro Goretex for the winter (for liability purposes when I get knocked off)
Note; clothing, lighting, locks etc all add up the ££'s
Edited by angusc43 on Thursday 30th July 13:02
angusc43 said:
Master Mischief said:
I then put on:
Full geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
.
Good pointsFull geeky mudguards to keep me relatively clean (make sure the frame has mounts).
2 sets of LEDs front and Rear.
A pannier rack.
A single waterproof pannier on the kerb side (prevents sweaty rucsac back).
A D-Lock.
For the near future to keep it legal for when I get hit:
Bell / horn.
Reflectors on front, back, wheels and pedals.
I always wear a helmet and gloves incase I get hit. A minor spill will tear your hands up. I then just wear trainers (so I can run at lunch), shorts and t-shirt. Nothing fancy.
.
I agree on helmet (got the top end Specialised thingy - very light, very well vented.)
Bell - check - less rude than yelling....
Reflecters - good point - need to add all them
LED's front and back - ditto
Gloves - I'm going to get some (used to use 'em)
Over shoes - I use men's mudguards (Crudcatchers) which of course don't work - so I'll need to get some waterfroof (maybe Goretex) overshoes.
For the lock I bought a collabsible one - Abus I think.
Got (black) Goretex jacket and shorts - very breathable, relatively waterproof plus tshirt and trainers
Will probable get fluoro Goretex for the winter (for liability purposes when I get knocked off)
Note; clothing, lighting, locks etc all add up the ££'s
Edited by angusc43 on Thursday 30th July 13:02
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