Offroad Hill climbing..
Discussion
Can anyone give me some advice, i am really having trouble with offroad climbs. I struggle to get my weight distribution right and end up with the back wheel slipping a lot.
I have a full sus 2009 stumpjumper, and use clip in pedals. Most of the stuff near me is pebals ( which makes it even harder !! ) I just can't seem to climb anything, the power is there but always slip and becuase i have clip in i end up falling over !
Anyone have any techniques that might help ?
I am am also really interested in geting some mountain bike tutorials... anyone know of any places that do that in the south east england area ??
I have a full sus 2009 stumpjumper, and use clip in pedals. Most of the stuff near me is pebals ( which makes it even harder !! ) I just can't seem to climb anything, the power is there but always slip and becuase i have clip in i end up falling over !
Anyone have any techniques that might help ?
I am am also really interested in geting some mountain bike tutorials... anyone know of any places that do that in the south east england area ??
The set up of your bike can make a difference but essentially on mega steep climbs you need to be long and flat to stop rear wheel spin without loosing too much weight from the front.
I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
You best bet on a full sus is to sit down and keep at a constant RPM in a suitable gear, sit slightly forward of your normal postion nearer the front of the seat. Tip, try riding with your thumbs on top of the bars rather than under (it prevents your hands/wrists trying to spin round the bars when your really pushing it).Practice makes perfect as they say.
I think your problem's grip so should look at the tyres and pressures first...as said you've got the power, you just gotta get it down. Another reason I'm chucking my low use Vert Pros away is the problem you've described. I've already mentioned the: It's OK, it's OK, I'll make it, f
kin-absolute-splatto, Aieee..! in another thread.
kin-absolute-splatto, Aieee..! in another thread.Master Mischief said:
The set up of your bike can make a difference but essentially on mega steep climbs you need to be long and flat to stop rear wheel spin without loosing too much weight from the front.
I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
Agree with this.I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
Concentrate on keeping your pedaling smooth and the speed constant throughout the entire pedalstroke -like a pursuiter - minimise the fluctuation in pedal speed, power & torque and you will break traction less. Once you are able to do this at lower rpms you can use higher gears for climbing which can give you more control on technical climbs. I generally climb at around 70rpm.
Position - I keep low and long - flat back, bent arms with hands and thumbs pushing down slightly on top of the bars to give you enough weight and pressure over the front steering wheel without robbing weight and traction from the rear. I tend to sit to the rear of the saddle to keep weight over the back but you may need to move forwards for very steep sections.
Obviously you will need to constantly change your weight distribution on technical terrain as well as adjusting your tyre pressures to suite.
tricky69 said:
I have a full sus 2009 stumpjumper,
Snap! - one of my bikes is the base Stumpy and it's excellent. 
But, I did find it very hard to 'get' climbs on it, whereas on my previous rigid bike I loved them.
Specifically on the Stumpy, [b]all[/i] '09 models have the Fox RP23 shock which has a blue adjuster lever. As you're looking at this from dead in front of the bike; this lever should be at about 4 o'clock for general hooning, but shifted over to about 7 o'clock for hils or where you're wanting to really stamp on the gas. This will make it easier on some hills.
You also need to ensure you're carrying as much weight on your legs as possible - and not just using your effort to bob the front forks up and down. The fitter you are, the easuer this is, although if you go and watch XC races you will see some very fit riders, with some appalling hill techniques!
Crouching forward is a bit of a killer on your abs and also not what you feel like doing when you're blowing a bit, but it is neccessary and reduces the amount you pitch the bike back and forth.
Finally, keeping your knees dead above the pedals helps anywhere, but never more so than on clmbs. Focus on this though on the falt and go seem to go faster without any extra effort. An exceedingly quick XC racer gave me that gem.
Edited by Digga on Thursday 10th September 14:22
Master Mischief said:
The set up of your bike can make a difference but essentially on mega steep climbs you need to be long and flat to stop rear wheel spin without loosing too much weight from the front.
I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
Agree with this too.I find that my lowest gears cause me to snatch the pedals and spin the real wheel. A higher gear and more even rotational force works but is harder to maintain. Think torque not power. I quite often climb mega steep stuff in the middle ring and I run 24-24-46.
Lots of people will disagree though...
But I think the physics behind why fitter riders try to keep the bike moving faster is that that way you're throwing less torque through each wheel revolution but you're using more power. This requires more pedal force and crank torque though.
Edited by Digga on Thursday 10th September 14:26
Following and add to the advice above, the key points are
Weight distribution, get your weight back far enough so you nearly start to unweight the front wheel (if it's steep), that way you should give the tyre the best chance of gripping.
Smooth pedaling, pedal the whole revolution with both legs, pull up on the pedals as well each stroke, don't just press on the down of each pedal stroke, that will cause your grip to break on loose surfaces. I'm sure there's a name for it, and a website to describe exactly how to do it.
Different tyre? wider, thinner, different compound, tread pattern etc?. I've found broad, square treaded, relatively soft compound tyres good for traction on loose surfaces.
Weight distribution, get your weight back far enough so you nearly start to unweight the front wheel (if it's steep), that way you should give the tyre the best chance of gripping.
Smooth pedaling, pedal the whole revolution with both legs, pull up on the pedals as well each stroke, don't just press on the down of each pedal stroke, that will cause your grip to break on loose surfaces. I'm sure there's a name for it, and a website to describe exactly how to do it.
Different tyre? wider, thinner, different compound, tread pattern etc?. I've found broad, square treaded, relatively soft compound tyres good for traction on loose surfaces.
If you're struggling with the really steep stuff then with your hands on the bars, drop your wrists below the level of the bars, get your elbows as close into your body as you can & move as far forward on the saddle as you can. It's flippin' uncomfortable but it's the right position to get up the steep climbs. I did a skills course at Rivington Peak (nr Bolton) last year, it was a long drive up from Essex, but worth it as it massively improved my technique & confidence on the technical stuff (the rock gardens of Coed Y Brenin !)
ok will have anouther run at it tonight.... tried again last night and still no good, will try and get a photo next time of the terrain...
best way to discribe it is like sand with small pebbles, no matter what i do the back wheel just slips and then lose my balace because i am clipped in - really annoying !
best way to discribe it is like sand with small pebbles, no matter what i do the back wheel just slips and then lose my balace because i am clipped in - really annoying !
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