Single speed benefits and costs

[CAB]

Just got a winter alu' bike frame and need to do some serious training this winter ahead of some tough rides planned for next year.

So a couple of questions for those more experienced than me:

1. how cheap could could you do the conversion for (cranks, gears, front brake and tensioners etc etc). If its quite a low cost then i may just give it a try...

2. Should you go for a proper fixed gear/hub i.e. no ratchet. I will be using it for riding on quite flat terrain but the thought of

a. having to continue to spinning my legs for all of those 12 miles each way seems a bit much

b. will it not ruin your normal technique when it comes to getting the good bike out of the cupboard??

Would appreciate your thoughts, thanks in advance

CAB

[hondafanatic]

Not sure about your initial outlay of costs as it depends on what spec you're after, but i can say that having a single speed commute bike with v-brakes has cost me nothing other than the once-a-week squirt of oil and a set of front pads.

The year before on my full on MTB, it cost me upteen chains, cassettes and realigning disc pads etc.

On a Friday nighht, my SS gets thrown into the garage and forgotten about until Monday morning...it's as cheap as chips.

I've avoided the fixed route. It's a personal thing, although I can see a certain appeal, on a daily commute through traffic, I just wouldn't be comfortable.

[CAB]

hondafanatic said:

Not sure about your initial outlay of costs as it depends on what spec you're after, but i can say that having a single speed commute bike with v-brakes has cost me nothing other than the once-a-week squirt of oil and a set of front pads.

The year before on my full on MTB, it cost me upteen chains, cassettes and realigning disc pads etc.

On a Friday nighht, my SS gets thrown into the garage and forgotten about until Monday morning...it's as cheap as chips.

I've avoided the fixed route. It's a personal thing, although I can see a certain appeal, on a daily commute through traffic, I just wouldn't be comfortable.

Thanks

Got a very nice racing frame but if i go this way keen to do a mucho cheapo single speed build if i go in this direction. Keen to know if anyone has been able to do this

CB

[hondafanatic]

CAB said:

hondafanatic said:

Not sure about your initial outlay of costs as it depends on what spec you're after, but i can say that having a single speed commute bike with v-brakes has cost me nothing other than the once-a-week squirt of oil and a set of front pads.

The year before on my full on MTB, it cost me upteen chains, cassettes and realigning disc pads etc.

On a Friday nighht, my SS gets thrown into the garage and forgotten about until Monday morning...it's as cheap as chips.

I've avoided the fixed route. It's a personal thing, although I can see a certain appeal, on a daily commute through traffic, I just wouldn't be comfortable.

Thanks

Got a very nice racing frame but if i go this way keen to do a mucho cheapo single speed build if i go in this direction. Keen to know if anyone has been able to do this

CB

Roadie?

In that case...I'm oot you shaved legged freak.

[CAB]

Have both - MTB and road bike. Legs are as god intended them ;-)

[hondafanatic]

CAB said:

Have both - MTB and road bike. Legs are as god intended them ;-)

Both! So you have one shaved leg and one normal leg...

[mchammer89]

I'd go for fixed, failing that a coaster brake, especially when going through traffic it's so much better not having to ride around with your hands over the brakes at all times in case some numpty pulls out in front of you.

[BermyAndy]

fixed gear riding is supposed to actually improve your peddling technique - you have to pedal smoothly on a fixie otherwise it spits you out.

So long run, fixie usage would make you a better geared rider

[mchammer89]

BermyAndy said:

fixed gear riding is supposed to actually improve your peddling technique - you have to pedal smoothly on a fixie otherwise it spits you out.

So long run, fixie usage would make you a better geared rider

That too, forgot to mention that, that was the main reason I started riding fixed, made me a much stronger and faster rider.

[CAB]

mchammer89 said:

BermyAndy said:

fixed gear riding is supposed to actually improve your peddling technique - you have to pedal smoothly on a fixie otherwise it spits you out.

So long run, fixie usage would make you a better geared rider

That too, forgot to mention that, that was the main reason I started riding fixed, made me a much stronger and faster rider.

Why do you think this is?

Curious as
- just been quoted c £300 to equip the frame with everything bar wheels and stem etc
- you can pick up a chorus groupset for £500 second hand..
- Just found out track cranks tend to be much shorter than std cranks and i was hoping to ensure the winter and summer bike shared the same geo'

Thanks CAB

[mchammer89]

CAB said:

mchammer89 said:

BermyAndy said:

fixed gear riding is supposed to actually improve your peddling technique - you have to pedal smoothly on a fixie otherwise it spits you out.

So long run, fixie usage would make you a better geared rider

That too, forgot to mention that, that was the main reason I started riding fixed, made me a much stronger and faster rider.

Why do you think this is?

Curious as
- just been quoted c £300 to equip the frame with everything bar wheels and stem etc
- you can pick up a chorus groupset for £500 second hand..
- Just found out track cranks tend to be much shorter than std cranks and i was hoping to ensure the winter and summer bike shared the same geo'

Thanks CAB

Well when riding fixed you've got to have a gear that is managable up hills and also downhill, this means that you've to push a bigger gear than you normally would going uphill and spin like a bugger going down, pushing the bigger gear helps you build muscle and pedalling that fast helps develop muscle suppleness.

Cranks on fixed bikes are normally 165/170mm to help avoid pedal strike (as well as having higher BBs)

You can do it for much less than £300, I bought a 1 year old Langster with a pair of £40 mudguards for £190 and i've still got it and still love it.

[mk1fan]

Riding a fixie makes you a stronger rider because you're always riding rather than coasting sections. Secondly, any hills you have to ride in the gear you have - there's no lower granny gear to pootle in.

All you need for single speed is to remove the shifters and set the chain and rear mech in one gear. Cost - free.

Further to that you can buy a tensioner, single rear cog with spacers and locking ring to put on a normal rear hub. Woolly Hat Shop on e-Bay can supply for around £25 quid or you can try Superstar Components for similar.

ETA - how long did I spend typing this?

Edited by mk1fan on Thursday 26th November 18:56

[CAB]

mk1fan said:

All you need for single speed is to remove the shifters and set the chain and rear mech in one gear. Cost - free.

Edited by mk1fan on Thursday 26th November 18:56

As per the otiginal post all i have is the
frame and bars so need
- single speed groupset
- calipers
- levers

given the prices quoted i am tempted to:
- get a std chorus or below groupset
- one single speed rear wheel

that way if i fancy getting out of london i can put a std rear wheel on the bike and use it on the north downs...

would mean that i would near to fit a rear deraulier (spelling!!) but that doesnt seem to bad..

Thoughts??

CAB

[mk1fan]

The extension of what I was saying is that you can buy the Chorus groupset, a second chain and s/s cog kit. Then all you need to do is swap out the s/s cog and chain for the cassette and longer chain. No need to buy a second wheel.

You can use the deraileur as the tensioner. Although, you need to set the limit screws to ensure you don't accidentally shift off the s/s cog.

ETA: cost £320.

Edited by mk1fan on Friday 27th November 10:15

[CAB]

mk1fan said:

The extension of what I was saying is that you can buy the Chorus groupset, a second chain and s/s cog kit. Then all you need to do is swap out the s/s cog and chain for the cassette and longer chain. No need to buy a second wheel.

You can use the deraileur as the tensioner. Although, you need to set the limit screws to ensure you don't accidentally shift off the s/s cog.

ETA: cost £320.

Edited by mk1fan on Friday 27th November 10:15

Nice one thanks

CAB