Another what bike thread...
Discussion
I have come to the conclusion after a good ride today that MTB is my preffered no wind sport (addicted kitesurfer), so I am going to get a proper bike as my borrowed Giant Boulder is pretty rubbish. Seems like a few folk on here are keen riders so thought I'd ask here for advice instead of the mtb forums where you just get arguments over what's best...
I am going Cycle to Work and my absolute max budget is £900. I am tied into a few brands as it has to go through a specific company so I can get - Trek, Gary Fisher, Cannondale or Genesis.
I'm looking at -
Genesis Core 30 - http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/...e-30/overvi...
Trek 6300 - http://www.trekbikes.com/uk/en/bikes..._series/630...
Cannondale Trail SL2 - http://www.cannondale.com/gbr/eng/Pr...FE2-TRAIL-S...
And my current favourite - Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo - http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/hoo-koo-e-ko...
although I'm basing it mostly on looks
Can anyone who knows about bikes give any advice on which has the best components etc?
TIA
personally i would go with the gary fisher, their hardtails have always offered a good ride and plenty of feedback. it has a nice air sprung fork which is responsive and easy to adjust.
the genesis has an alfine hub, make sure you are comfortable with that before considering spending the cash but its well worth considering.
the genesis has an alfine hub, make sure you are comfortable with that before considering spending the cash but its well worth considering.
There's a bit of difference in the types of mtb you've listed there.
Generally and simply speaking HTs (hardtails - front suspension only) with 100mm (a few have 120mm) travel forks tend to be Race bikes. HTs with 120 - 140mm of travel tend to be Trail bikes that you go out for an allday ride on and capable of handling all disciplines - a jack of all trade, master of f
k all. You can get HTs with 150mm plus travel up front but these are freeride/downhill orientated. Personally, I'd go for a Trail bike with 140mm travel as this will cope with everything a UK Trail Centre has to offer - should you decide to visit one - and 90% of the UK's natural trails.
Again personally, I don't like Gary Fisher bikes for the simple reason that they run forks with funny offsets so you very rarely find discounted replacements.
Strictly speaking you should be able to source any make of bike through your C2W scheme regardless of whether the shop carries the brand. All the schemes are clear on this. However, there are clear advantages to both you and the suppling shop to stick with those brands they do carry.
Which shop are you dealing with? If it's Halfords then you've got to check out the Boardman range of HTs. If it's Evans then you can't go wrong with a Specalized or Giant. Although there are lots of bikes out there with great specs for the money On One, Merlin Cycles with their Malt and Rock Lobster bikes.
For your £900 I would discount getting a FS (full suspension) for YOU at this TIME a HT is all you'll need. For the money you should get at least Shimano SLX components or Sram X-7, good working hydraulic brakes (Avid Juicy Three, Shimano Deore) and a good fork with rebound adjustment maybe a compression adjustment (Rockshox Tora or Recon with Motion Control). An air fork is easy to set up but coil is plusher. Travel adjustment is an un-necessary extra. I'd rather have a proper compression adjuster than a travel adjuster. Don't worry too much about weight anything under 32lbs works fine.
Even at this price there are compromises in the spec. A cheaper chainset and bottom bracket maybe fitted in order to fit a better fork. This is fine. A bad chainset or deraillieur doesn't make a bad handling bike.
Consider the physical set-up of the bike. The height and position of the saddle; the length and rise of stem; the rise, sweep and rotation of the handlebars. Tweaking all of these from the factory set-up is important to tailor the bike to how you ride. Set-up comes from trial and error. Oh and make sure you've got crotch clearance when you stand over the frame. I like about 50-60mm.
If you can go into the shop when it's quiet. During the week either in the morning or afternoon, not lunchtime. The bike industry has a terrible reputation for customer service but usually the complaint starts with 'The shop was packed and I didn't get imediate personal service'. That's not to guarantee you'l get platinum service but when there's no other customers around the staff will have more time to spend answering your questions and advising you.
Finally, don't forget that you can also get clothing, accessories and safety equipment included in your allowance.
Good luck.
Generally and simply speaking HTs (hardtails - front suspension only) with 100mm (a few have 120mm) travel forks tend to be Race bikes. HTs with 120 - 140mm of travel tend to be Trail bikes that you go out for an allday ride on and capable of handling all disciplines - a jack of all trade, master of f
k all. You can get HTs with 150mm plus travel up front but these are freeride/downhill orientated. Personally, I'd go for a Trail bike with 140mm travel as this will cope with everything a UK Trail Centre has to offer - should you decide to visit one - and 90% of the UK's natural trails.Again personally, I don't like Gary Fisher bikes for the simple reason that they run forks with funny offsets so you very rarely find discounted replacements.
Strictly speaking you should be able to source any make of bike through your C2W scheme regardless of whether the shop carries the brand. All the schemes are clear on this. However, there are clear advantages to both you and the suppling shop to stick with those brands they do carry.
Which shop are you dealing with? If it's Halfords then you've got to check out the Boardman range of HTs. If it's Evans then you can't go wrong with a Specalized or Giant. Although there are lots of bikes out there with great specs for the money On One, Merlin Cycles with their Malt and Rock Lobster bikes.
For your £900 I would discount getting a FS (full suspension) for YOU at this TIME a HT is all you'll need. For the money you should get at least Shimano SLX components or Sram X-7, good working hydraulic brakes (Avid Juicy Three, Shimano Deore) and a good fork with rebound adjustment maybe a compression adjustment (Rockshox Tora or Recon with Motion Control). An air fork is easy to set up but coil is plusher. Travel adjustment is an un-necessary extra. I'd rather have a proper compression adjuster than a travel adjuster. Don't worry too much about weight anything under 32lbs works fine.
Even at this price there are compromises in the spec. A cheaper chainset and bottom bracket maybe fitted in order to fit a better fork. This is fine. A bad chainset or deraillieur doesn't make a bad handling bike.
Consider the physical set-up of the bike. The height and position of the saddle; the length and rise of stem; the rise, sweep and rotation of the handlebars. Tweaking all of these from the factory set-up is important to tailor the bike to how you ride. Set-up comes from trial and error. Oh and make sure you've got crotch clearance when you stand over the frame. I like about 50-60mm.
If you can go into the shop when it's quiet. During the week either in the morning or afternoon, not lunchtime. The bike industry has a terrible reputation for customer service but usually the complaint starts with 'The shop was packed and I didn't get imediate personal service'. That's not to guarantee you'l get platinum service but when there's no other customers around the staff will have more time to spend answering your questions and advising you.
Finally, don't forget that you can also get clothing, accessories and safety equipment included in your allowance.
Good luck.
Edited by mk1fan on Monday 15th February 09:42
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